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Great, thanks for the tip on an alternative plug. And follows along with Japanese plugs for Japanese cars.

Although the CX-5 is a good car (I own a 2014) , due to age and mileage I'd pass and put the money towards something else.

In accordance with CX-5 towing limitations I installed a class 2 Curt hitch. It's still rated for 3500 lbs and 350 tongue weight which exceeds Mazda towing limits . The 1-1/4 receiver isn't as versatile as 2" class 3, but for towing only, once a ball mount is installed it's good to go. I don't...

I used this style of pliers. Amazon is full of them but I grabbed a pair of NOS Kastar brand from ebay. They are now offered under the Lang brand name. I wanted the old Kastar because I think Lang thinned up the metal gauge on the one's bearing their name. I could have spent more for another...

I installed my class 2 Curt hitch with the aid of my floor jack. It would have been better with two people to position and support the hitch. After "busting a gut" a couple times removing the rubber donuts (removed for rust removal and repaint a couple years ago) I used silicone spray and a set...

The tensioner on my 2014 was leaking at 29K miles. Dealer said they last about 40K miles. I was just past the 3/36 warranty timewise so no free replacement but they would install a new one and new belts for a mere $450. I thanked them for their time and bought an OEM Mazda online for~ $100 and...

No, it's not necessarily bad because they are aftermarket parts. Aftermarket doesn't automatically mean poor quality and OEM Mazda parts are expensive. So don't fret about it because they most likely needed it so it's a good thing. In fact some of the aftermarket control arms have thicker...

As mentioned above, you can't go strictly by looks. Grab each end and push and pull it in and out as well as vertically along the axis of the rod . This is done jacked up with the wheel hanging free to relieve tension on the link. Going by all of the pictures you've posted, along with the lower...

In the front, the big nut retaining the hub/bearing assembly onto the drive axle isn't an item normally checked after it's torqued to spec. Any "play" usually develops from bad bearing.

We haven't heard much about CX-5 wheel bearing failures. Not an issue really and there are a lot of CX-5 owners on this forum. From what you are describing: 1) You didn't mention the time spanning these failures/replacements but be aware that some aftermarket wheel bearings only last a few...

As the bushing looks good on the LCA picture you posted, I wouldn't be in any hurry to replace it. It looks like it's been replaced already with an aftermarket one. Was the CV axle you replaced leaking grease and slinging grease around? I didn't see any mention if it was. I'm still curious about...

It's a 2014. Have the front stabilizer bar end links ever been replaced? Have they been inspected? Remember, they are attached to the front strut and the strut does rotate when steering occurs. My right front link caused a clunk over even very slight bumps. With the wheel off the ground so as to...

Rather than being a pressure switch I think it's a fuel pressure sensor that's integral to the fuel rail and reports fuel pressure to the PCM. Have a hard time believing it's a common failure, at least among the skyactiv engines. For as long as I've been a member here this is the first time I...

Looks like color of CV joint grease.

I think $720 is outrageous for BOTH sides and listening to what the OP posted it sounds more like suspension related not brakes. If it were me I'd run away from that shop and go someplace reputable and get a thorough undercarriage inspection. An experienced mechanic should be able to diagnose by...

I changed mine out at 71K miles with those same NGK's and found the same thing. Ran fine with old plugs. Old plugs looked good and still gapped correctly. However, with the new one's there was a noticeable difference. Smoother idle and stronger pullout when accelerating. Maybe tiny increase in mpg.

If that's the first time you've removed the plastic cover, I take it the transmission has not been serviced during your ownership however long that is. Also, I may be wrong, but this is the first case I've seen where the oil pan is so severely rusted and the transmission mount needed replaced at...

After the cooling system is filled, a leaking head gasket could possibly be detected by bubbles and combustion gases (using instrument or chemical test) making their way into the radiator filler neck.

On my 2014 Touring I replaced the factory (Panasonic) battery at 5 years and 8 months old because it was cranking slower than I liked @30*F in November at the onset of winter. The battery itself was actually ~6 months older due to the car's manufacture date. My driving is predominately "local"...

I would replace the radiator cap and ensure that the system is full of coolant before condemning anything else. Missing coolant contributing to hot running doesn't indicate a bad thermostat.