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You want to burp the air out on the level not raised on ramps. With radiator filled to the top of the neck for starters, level should drop when thermostat opens at full operating temp (or close) and rev engine and maintain at 2500-3000 for a couple minutes. You should see the level drop as...

Lights and codes aside, overheat in 6 miles would lead me to believe that there is still air in the system. Have you checked the radiator level each time on a cold engine before startup. May need to add more coolant. Is the overflow bottle reasonably full or is it empty and the radiator level...

Absolutely. Change out the coolant and flush the brake system. The coolant from a corrosion standpoint and the brakes from the standpoint that brake fluid absorbs moisture which lowers the boiling point of the fluid and can also cause corrosion in the system especially the expensive ABS...

Could be differences in tires (rolling resistance) and tire pressure. These definitely do make a difference but 21 mpg highway is definitely low. But for city/around town driving then 21 mpg would be plausible.

Yes, be glad that you live such a place. I left California many years ago to return to the midwest and in addition to still missing the weather I also still miss a car that stays pretty clean and rust free underneath and above. My CX-5 gets the engine compartment washed gently 2-3 times a year...

Another cleaner, Purple Power, on a previous car attacked the finish on my aluminum wheels. Had me moving around like a madman rinsing it off. Decided to read the label(duh). Stuff was highly alkaline and do not use on aluminum.

Grimy? Doesn't look out of line for going through a winter where the roads are salted/chemically treated. There's a thing called a radiator that allows air (and road dirt) to pass through the fins into the engine compartment. The aluminum end cap on the vacuum pump looks like it's been exposed...

It's not a wheel position sensor. It's a wheel speed sensor wire for the ABS.

Strut mounts do indeed clunk, especially after a lot of miles. There is a bearing inside because the strut rotates when the wheels are steered. Even though the strut dampens, some road shock is transmitted right up the strut to the mount That's why it's prudent to install new mounts with new...

I changed front sway bar end links at around 60k mile mark because of a clunk when going over even small bumps. Was very noticeable. With the wheels off couldn't detect any vertical play (maybe due to tension still applied from sway bar) but pushing and pulling in/out on the ball and socket end...

It wasn't as if the Monroe struts suddenly failed or turned to mush, it's when they got "softer" and leaned more in turns and lost some damping ability. It was around that mileage that I noticed and it wasn't an overnight change. They weren't suddenly horrible but were degrading faster than I...

Stay away from Monroe. Search the web and you'll find they don't have a great reputation. I had them twice on previous cars and it took about 3-4 weeks before they settled in (rode high and a bit firm). At about 20-25,000 miles they started going soft. It's not a money saving proposition by...

Access to the bolts that clamp the bushings in place is difficult to put it mildly. My mechanic charged me ~$80 labor to install them. Not surprised. I supplied the bushings which are quality aftermarket that cost~$20 so about 100 bux all in. The bushings I got were CTR brand (CTR is an OEM...

In 2022 I changed the sway bar end links. Following months later were the lower control arms (torn bushings and torn leaking BJ boots) using OEM Mazda. Although not badly worn yet the tie rod ends also got replaced due to torn boots since they are not expensive and an alignment was going to be...

Protruding tabs should snap into a (square/rectangular) hole in a "bracket " portion of the strut. Check the other side for reference assuming it too hasn't detached. My driver side one kept detaching years ago so I just zip tied them to something adjacent( some kind of "bumper thing" ? ---...

As stated above, take it back to the dealer to let them solve it.. And didn't you notice this during a test drive before purchase. And did the dealer actually drive it or just check alignment when you took it back. It shouldn't be your problem to solve.

Pish tosh, poppycock. If they're offering a kit at that price it ought to provide some real illumination.

There's "memory steer" that can also be caused by sticking ball joints and tie rod ends. Had it happen on a previous car. The steering wouldn't stay returned to natural center. Would correct left and it would stay stuck, then return to right and same. Constantly correcting from left or right...

The belt most likely doesn't need replacing. As I posted earlier, the dealers seem to automatically want to replace belts even with low(er) mileage. My tensioner leaked at 29k miles and the dealer quoted new belts( yes, water pump belt too) as part of the job. As you said...... something about a...

Good catch! This smells even worse since they're already removing those parts as part of the warranty repair.