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Your radiator fan is probably going bad if you can crank your heater and get the temps down. Or a bad radiator. Do these engines have electric fans? I wouldn't think it's exhaust in the coolant (although that's cheap to test) since it would probably go very hot very fast.

As an aside, a shop can probably do it for not too much. It's an easy repair for them. Getting the car like this is a problem though.

Build yourself a new lead. Find out what gauge wire that is and get some. Bigger will work but might be harder to work with. Smaller WILL NOT WORK. I would cut off a bit of the end of the harness and take it to compare with wherever you will get some. You can get wire by the foot at Home...

I don't know. Maybe? You'd have to diagnose it. I am really only familiar with the ABS module under the hood where the brake lines go in and out. We had that module go bad due to an internal valve sticking. This didn't produce a code or ABS light, just a very very soft pedal. If you have...

Yeah, the axle is probably not an issue. It'll be the sensor, wiring or ABS control module.

After some digging, there are magnets embedded in the axle that when spun the sensor picks up on. Those reluctor rings like you mentioned are for very early ABS designs. I remember that ring in my old '96 Probe GT. Regardless, all(?) ABS sensors use magnets for sensing.

43-701B is the sensor and it watches the axle through the knuckle. So I'm going to logically say that the CV Axle assembly has lines on it or splines that work with that sensor.

I pulled the relevant section from mine. See attachment. Please get the service manual. You really can't work on modern cars without it. I know it says for 2013 but I think it's the same.

You'll need the service manual for the car. I get mine off from Ebay. The service manual has about 20 pages of steps and diagrams to do this job.

I little searching and to get to that fuse the fuse box needs to come apart and\or come out. Also, it seems that 80Amp fuse generally won't blow before the Power Steering Pump fries itself. I'd pull the harness to the pump, and test the continuity of the fuse to make sure it truly is blown...

Did you find out WHY the fuse blew? Fuses should never blow. If they do, there is another issue somewhere you need to fix first.

Maybe it will help if we know what year car at least? In these cases, where the programming may have been lost, you may need to call a mobile locksmith. I had a similar issue, and I just removed the entire security immobilizer system on a 2008 Mazda 3 following the manual backwards. I could...

Part number?

Yeah, that's probably a thermostat going bad. Had this issue with my 2008 2.3L and eventually got a code. Replaced the thermostat and temps went back up.

Looks like that P2177 code may actually be the PVC valve hose which is a PITA to get to. The Intake manifold has to come out. The PVC may also cause some oil consumption but reports says it doesn't do much to fix extreme cases. It seems these engines are prone to some serious oil burning at...

An odd thing has happened 3 times to 2 different cars. One is a 2008 Mazda 3 hatch with the 2.3L. The other a 2010 Mazda 5 with the 2.3L. Both have like 120k miles give or take. For the Mazda 3 it happened on 2 long trips. The car started with a fresh oil change. It had been driven a few...

...as an aside: If you have to drop the tank, you may as well replace the fuel pump, sending unit, and all the seals, valves, hoses and so forth since it'll be far easier when the tank is down.

Smoke test. You have a leak and it could be anywhere. All the hoses and grommets and connections are all aged rubber and plastic and the leak can be anywhere. Lucky for you, it's now a BIG leak...so should be easy to find with a smoke test.

I doubt any electronic repair shop is going to front you a module before you send one in. Maybe for a really expensive up front core charge? But you'd have to ask. Maybe get one from a junkyard\ebay and test it in your car? Then send one of them in if there are still issues?