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This may not be the same problem, but I found it in a different forum

However, if you don't have a multimeter, you might want to get a decent quality one. It will be far more useful than a test light. Checking a battery or alternator with a test light is not going to reveal much.

You can easily test a fuse with a multimeter before you throw it away and buy a new one. If you scroll down to near the bottom of this page you will see the 2015 fuses. https://fuse-box.info/mazda/mazda-cx-9-2006-2015-fuses

Was your car made in Japan or Mexico?

In which part of the country do you live? I have not seen any seepage from my 2014 3. The ambient temperature here in San Diego is moderate, My car has about 30,000 miles on it.

Always check to make sure there is voltage at the starter. If there isn't, the starter is probably just fine. The ignition would then be the obvious culprit.

Do you have a multimeter? If so, check DC voltage of the battery while the car is running. You should be 13.5-14v. If you do, the alternator is most likely fine. If it takes a few tries then it could be the ignition switch or the starter. If you were able to measure input voltage at the starter...

Did you have all those things replaced before the problems you listed or after? If after, how long after was it before you had problems?

I sold my daughter's 2002 Protege ES (with AT) in 2017 for $1700. It had all the paper work from my maintenance schedule and everything worked except the moonroof. The paint's clearcoat was gone on places but the interior was in great shape. It took me less than 2 weeks to sell it. This car had...

I did used to play that with our kids! It was hilariously fun but not nearly as realistic as Forza Horizons on an OLED TV.;)

For my favorite Game (Forza Horizons 4) I bought a last gen XBOX (4K capable) with 1 TB SSD, a racing setup with steering wheel, pedals, shifter, and separate racing seat, along with the nicest monitor I could find (1 year ago), an LG 77-inch OLED TV. I've been spending about 3-5 hours per...

The message is telling you that the battery is getting weak. It could last a day, a week, a month, or maybe more but if you don't replace it soon, be prepared to have to have it jumped. If that happens, note the procedure for jumping it whereas you wait until the warning message disappears...

Did you expect that all batteries last 6 years or more? Really, 4 years is very common in certain areas due to temperature extremes or if the battery had been subjected to one or more deep drains. Allowing a battery to lose enough juice so that it won't start the car is often enough reason that...

I just found this procedure. It looks like the current sensor is on the negative side of the battery. See also: https://mzdconnecthacks.files.wordpress.com/2018/01/i-eloop-battery-service-information.pdf

There are multiple cables connected to the positive terminal and it makes sense that one is the current sensor. This photo shows them. I have not yet changed my Mazda3's battery (dealer did it the first time), but I am hoping to swap in a far less expensive one when this one gets tired. Update...

Lots of info, here: https://rts.i-car.com/collision-repair-news/mazda-i-eloop-overview.html

Colder weather will require more power to start the vehicle. If you did not look at temperature differences between the current and last battery during Winter months then you may be comparing apples to oranges. Bottom line is that if an OEM or other battery with same or higher CCAs fails, (all...

sm1ke is correct in that an improper alignment could cause highway wander.