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Hey, guys. Dropping some N/A info for the few who prefer a headache for little hp ( lol ). So, installed the afc today and started messing with a couple base tunes I've collected from different cars, looking at fuel tables and what not. Turns out the stock supermap works as well for n/a with a...

Sweet ride.... Those wheels would look killer in a golden finish

Berto I figure up to 250/275 torque should be good thresholds for a manual. Yours being auto it really depends on the construction of the torque converter. You see, autos have stronger gears than manuals, just make sure that your trans is performing without any hiccups that will become nuances...

Ok, thanks for the replies. the real question now is, them being long rods, will they impact the compression ratio, or does it stay 11.1? higher? clear the deck?

Dibs on the wideband

so the 11.1 cr is reached WITH the long rod or will it increase with the piston PLUS the long rod? pardon my ignorance

Hey man, nice going with the manifold, I knew you'd find someone. That Mazda meet sounds cool, maybe I'll stop by

By long rod you mean that's the name of the actual part or is it longer than the stock rod? Language barrier here.... at least for specialty part names, lol

That's P.R. for you man, whatever's not made, WE make. Lol

Yeah, stock it had vtcs, already said that outside of that..not downplaying it... and some other minor things, casting wise ( as in size of the ports, vics routing, throttle body diameter, TPS) is virtually the same. When u port match that's pretty much the extra power you generate. Most likely...

Well I'm not trying to be annoying either, but I HAVE both manifolds, I ported the JDM since it was so identicalaA to the stock one with those feeble ports... between the jdm egr hardware, maybe the egr routing ( I deleted EGR) and that resonance chamber it was all the same as casting goes. Had...

Damn man that sucks

I have the jdm mani, same as the stock, minus vtcs and the black " resonance " tuner, I measured, He's better off with that custom one. He has at least a FSH9 cam at least, the exhaust one he can get for cheap. See the part number for the pistons. I have the 10.4s and he has the 10.7s, the dish...

VICS screw?

Yeah that's what I figure. I want to know if its REQUIRED by the unit to be connected to vacuum in order to work. No point in doing so if I want to tune by voltage and RPM. That way I can use the fuel map from the Lancer as a guide, since it had a very nice base tune Btw tried to contact Split...

Hey guys, can't see an N/A related post, so here I'll try. What settings should I use in the SSAFC in order for me to tune for N/A? I figure I can't turn with the boost settings since I'm not getting any psi. Cant I switch from Pressure to RPM? Also Tune by voltage rather than vacuum/pressure...

DON'T DRIVE IT!!! Bearings seized... If you keep driving you can damage the crankshaft and it can be a costlier repair. Still, measure the crankshaft to see if theres any damage BEFORE replacing the bearings, if you don't and the crankshaft is uneven it will knock again in mere weeks

You in theory, can run a b6t... but why when you can get a GTR(bp) for a little more and it's a newer beefier engine. About, the tandem thing, I've seen in done in turbocharged FPs, specially the twin hall sensor bpd, I figure that it can be done all others as well

Oh nice, I'm in Santa Isabel, but mostly run in the Ponce scene

If you are interested in going turbo, I'd recommend swapping a BP jdm turbo engine, get a 1.8's ecu and wireloom, and make it a mitsubishi ecu hybrid... meaning, running a Mirage locally flashable ecu and wireloom and run them in tandem, then tune the Mitsu ecu like if it was a stand alone. If...