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oh only in the last tab. thanks. thoughts on the other values??

Another log Here are my latest logs after my PTP CDFP upgrade and I am a bit concerned with a couple of things and wanted to get some input from others. 1) Should I be concerned with the boost onset of 22.xx PSI? I would like to keep it at 20.xx but am having trouble even thought I have...

yeah, I received my link in about 2 days.

I am no expert by any means but I think the Stage 2 Cobb SRI map would work for the most part. If the Turbo XS a catted DP. If you are running catless you are going to have over boost issues that an OTS map can't resolve. With ATR you might be able to tune the overboosting out but that would...

Well that didn't work. Here is the log.

Here are my latest logs and disregard the DI pressure I have that resolved with a new PTP kit installed today and haven't made it thru the break in peroid to log more. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!!

P.S. I am spiking around 22.3 for less than .5 of a second then settling down to 20 then the taper starts down to 17 or so. Is that what you guys are seeing or is your max 20ish? My boost guage [Prosport] was bouncing up to 25 which wasn't correct and was alarming me but when I was logging...

Not correct, I am running Stage 2 MSCAI2 93 TMIC v105. Just FYI

Yes, you are right about that. The lower pressure drop and better flow of the upgraded ICs makes our turbo spool faster and produce more boost. I hit 25 PSI the other day in 4th and scared the s*** out of me! Immediately let off the gas. Thanks for the reply.

is this thread dead! Should I hop over to the Cobb site?(sleep)

Just enough of each [primer and color] to get coverage no more. Clear I would say 4 but you can tell if it starts to get too thick. Just like the can will say, a few light coats is always better than one thick coat. (hand) Must have missed the door covers...i'll have to look again..

P.S. I like your leather e-brake and console door covers!

Yep, just the pads no paper needed. Each color is a different grit but just about any of those would do. The ones with the fibers closer together are a finer grit. From the pic I would say the drk grey is too coarse but the other two in his hand are good as well as the lighter grey in the...

A scuf pad will produce the best results as there are no sharp edges that will gouge the emblem like the paper will and the pad gets down in all the little creases and edges better than paper will. 800 grit is too fine for paint to stick to. 400 for spray paint is the finest you woudl want to...

Just re-read my post and I didn't meant to mislead about FI molding just the nuts into the the CF. I don't know how they do it but a plate w nuts is def the way to go. [did I just say a plate w nuts outloud?]

Agree with you both. I haven't seen this hood but perhaps the OP can tell us if they mold a plate in. I got to believe they do. Almost any Fiberglass hood I have seen [of good quality] does it this way and CF is basicly the same process. Hell if they don't do it that way for a 1k hood I...

Well I can't help it if you don't close your hood or perform the install correctly.(uhm) Ha! Zip ties....haden't thought of that one. When I get mine this Spring I'll sure give that one a try....not!

I would bet if it removed the plating it would then proceed to melt the plastic. I wouldn't try it. You can see my previous post regarding this as well as others that have had success with just scuffing the emplems and painting them. Much faster process and mine are over a year old without so...

Anyone take the time to compair some of the Cobb maps to see what they are doing. Example: The Throttle- Req Load XX gear tables are actually lower on a TMIC map vs. without. Are they doing that because the TMIC gives you about 2PSI more boost per load value vs without one?? I know that is...

Since CF is as strong as steel, and FI molds the nuts into the CF for the latch assembly, there is no way it can come lose and fly off. IMHO.