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Good to know, mine seems to have fixed itself.

Some oil companies advertise a higher additive pack with their premium fuels like Shell and Exxon/Mobile. https://www.shell.us/motorist/shell-fuels/shell-v-power-nitro-plus-premium-gasoline.html

Seems to be a popular topic these days.

I know there's one or two items in here that nobody does https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qsozrTXfHoc

Car is in the shop today, hopefully he over quoted like he usually does. I also go with OEM when possible, particularly when it comes to suspension. Brakes gets a mix with aftermarket and OEM. I just replaced a front brake hose last week and it cost almost $45, dealer price with a 15% discount...

Garages don't figure it the way you did. For example, one Mavis tire dealer broke it down this way, $214 per LCA, discounted from $315, labor and wheel alignment coming out to $875. State inspection and Emissions would be another $100. Then the state has to get its cut at 6% tax. I checked a few...

Yeah, I don't have a garage, so suspension work I generally don't do. I'll do shocks, brakes and some other light nonsense (plugs, oil changes, a timing belt or two). These guys have had a stellar rep for years. Still way cheaper than a dealer. I've had a few cars for many years longer than I've...

So, if you don't have a Full automatic A/C (climate control) then there's no issue? Mine is stuck at 59 F, with a plain Jane a/c system.

I trust these guys, been going there over 30 years. I've been hearing an occasional knocking noise the last few months and the last time I looked at the bushings they looked questionable. Ball joint seals are torn so it's time, in my book anyway. BOTH control arms replaced, alignment, state...

Just had mine flagged for both lower control arms with worn bushings at my favorite indie shop. Brought it in for a state inspection and wheel alignment. 86k miles. Total bill will be $1100. One of those things I guess.

Yep, there should be a sticky..."if you screw up your EPB..."

Off hand, and I'm purely guessing, I'd say it's one of those you pry out with a screwdriver and tap the new one back in with a seal installer. You'd have to pull out the axle shaft.

I've had quite a few new oil filters that had bits of metal in the thread hole area leftover from the machining process. Bosch, Purolator, and Mobil to name a few.

Congrats on the mileage, I hope to be there someday. Check out the link for cleaning valves, might point you in the right direction. https://mazdas247.com/forum/t/cleaned-the-intake-valves-on-my-2013-cx-5.123880903/

All the time. Usually by the time I change them the air vents are filled with rust anyway thanks to good ol' Pa winter road salt and brime.

Prices are ridiculously high because everything is based on a labor rate of about $250/hour. It's that high because dealerships have a ridiculous amount of overhead in today's over inflated economy. Find yourself a reputable independent garage. No need to go back there for maintenance. Service...

They come loose and fall off. Had it happen to me, I was lucky enough to fish it out of there. I reinstalled it and smothered it with silicon. I also have to shoot the hinges and strut pivot points with a silicon spray lube.

Exactly what I do, shop by email first and follow up on the good deals. You can tell yourself that anytime is a bad time to deal for any reason. Truth of the matter is they want to sell and will deal. Also had 15% off here AND rebate with Mazda loyalty incentive. Don't include the rebate as part...

I've had mine through two horrific snowstorms since I've had it. Temperature in the 20s and dropping, snow blowing around and dropping at over 2 inches per hour, 27 miles from work to home... Never got stuck and was going around people stuck on hills and traffic lights. You have to have the...