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I'd never go past 5,000 mile for an OCI if going the distance with your car (over 100k miles). I have gone to 7,500. but that's even too far IMO. Like the old saying "oil is cheap compared to engine work" . These guys have some pretty good stuff: and this in particular:

0w-20 is recommended according to the owners manual, not set in stone that you have to use it in warranty or out. It's your choice. I use 5w-30 year round.

2026 Mazda CX-5 spied for first time

Wouldn't use it, you don't know what could crop up after the warranty using this regarding wear.

Skip it....

Toyota has had a lot of problems the last few years with engines, transmissions, electronics, etc. I was a big fan of them in years gone by having owned quite a few, my Scion is virtually bullet proof still at 75k miles. But I'm no longer drinking the Kool Aid for their new stuff.

Just got a 2016.5 CX-5 - Tips, Tricks and MPG Just got a 2016.5 CX-5 - Tips, Tricks and MPG

Yeah, I, and others on this forum, could show a few articles testing to the contrary or backing it up, so who would be correct? At this point it's just conjecture IMO. Do whatever you think works for you. I always roll my eyes at the "let's solve this once and for all' statement, for anything. I...

No, it just broke the first time i used it, dealer said weak latch.

2016s had that problem as with mine. It's under warranty.

$750 now for rear brake and rotor replacement...every time I see some one quoting a dealer price for one of these jobs it gets higher and higher, seems like on a monthly basis. I paid less for a set of new tires last year. For comparison, a dealer quoted me $450 for rear brake replacement 2...

I've had a few instances where it stayed in 2nd at a complete stop, don't know why, maybe some kind of software glitch. For the most part it goes to 1st at a dead stop.

Wow, original post is over 9 years old! That 150 point inspection is really a gimmick IMO. I doubt the average dealer mechanic is going to go over the entire list thoroughly these days. I bought a CPO from Toyota and in reality it shouldn't have been one, quite a few things with the appearance...

I guess driving in 20 below is a whole different animal than what I experience down here. Supposed to be 2 above tomorrow night around here, plenty cold enough for me. Maybe a squirt of silicone would solve that valve stem freezing issue.

If you're riding on a good powdery snow like this dude is with no chance of hitting blacktop like you would be driving on the beach, then yeah, I could see the point. If you're riding blacktop eventually then no, totally disagree. Depends what you're driving on I guess. Riding down to 20 psi is...

Mazda actually recommends inflating winter/snow tires 4.5 psi above the inflation values on the placard, it's in the owners manual. I run my all seasons at 36 and my snows at 39. "Use snow tires on all four wheels Do not go faster than 120 km/h (75 mph) while driving with snow tires. Inflate...

Looks exactly like my 2015(.5). You won't get really good mileage in the city. The longer your trip the better mileage. I've managed to get up to 37 mpg on a long highway trip with typical speed 65-70. Tire pressures at 36 psi cold. Looks nice.

Yes, get the battery tested. If it has an issue, any issue, replace it. You're about due anyway. I change mine out every 4 years, testing usually shows loss of it's original power. First rule of thumb whenever diagnosing electrical issues, always start with a good battery.

Additives are cheaper.

You didn't say what year car. If it's over 3 years old, and even if it isn't, the battery would be the first place to start. . Easiest thing you could do would be to replace it.