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Shouldn't it be more than that? I think the door label on mine says 34 or 35.

I agree. Whenever you are averaging a significant amount ot idling, which gives you '0'mpg, your overall mpg will be pretty low.

The Sport has the 2.0 NA while all newer CX5s have the 2.5, which has a slightly greater oil capacity. I wonder if they overfilled by a half a quart?

When I switched from 0w-20 to 5w-30 I could barely tell the difference. Maybe the engine spun just a little easier on 0w-20 but if I hadn't been trying to notice a difference I'm sure I wouldn't have noticed.

If you suspect something is wrong, and you have no warning lights or codes, you might check the tires and brakes. After a drive check the hubs and tires for excessive heat, which might mean low air pressure or a possible sticking brake caliper.

Is it because you are using the windsheild defrost?

The MPG ratings all car manufacturers supply are the 'high range' -- what you get under good conditions. They can't brag about how bad the MPG is under bad conditions.

https://mazdas247.com/forum/r/online-cx-5-manuals-with-free-access.57/

there's a good picture of the oil control valve here... https://mazdas247.com/forum/t/oil-spotted-on-top-of-engine.123882301/

I found this black plastic repair expoxy stuff at an auto store, don't remember if it was Autozone or Oreillys, but it was really good stuff made to repair black plastic body parts like bumpers, etc.

Do you mean remove the EPB and install a manual brake lever? I try not to use my EPB too much, and I always try to verify that it has completely released after I disengage it. I had some trouble with it sticking on, and I had to grease the caliper guide pins. Cold weather doesn't help.

What kind of mileage did you get (on your typical driving routes) with your previous vehicle? Most people can get 28-30mpg cruising on the highway at a constant speed. Have you tried that?

I think the grill should pop off if you apply force in just the right spot.

Excessive deposits caused the shop to do the 'special cleaning' which probably caused it.

I wonder how well those stick to the oil pan. I have considered getting one but I would want to clean the oil pan thoroughly before applying the adhesive pad.

Maybe their rational that the battery drain is higher because the system is in a higher state of 'alert' has some merit. I think the best way to keep your battery going is a battery maintainer. You can plug one into the 12v lighter jack.

Check here : https://www.mcx5.org/exterior-661.html

Mine had a propensity to 'seize' instead of releasing the EPB, which I have so far cured by lubricating the quide pins.

Maybe somebody at a lock specialty shop would know.

There are many threads on fluid changes, it might be good to check them out. I think this 3X change is the way it's done because you can only drain part of the fluid.