Adjustable End Links…Anyone install these on their CX-5?

The adjustable sway bar links fixed my ride quality. Night and day! The car now just rides a little firmer than stock. This needs to be on the list of required supporting mods with lowering springs.
Yep I believe I said that several months ago. Great find. 😅
 
All these little tricks makes me appreciate tradesmen. If I hadn't done it myself, I would NEVER appreciate their knowledge and skills.

Had a '96 Mazda Miata, some years back. Had the thing for nearly six years and did almost everything myself. Wanted to learn, and the car's simple enough that it invites DIY efforts on most things. Learned probably a third of the little tricks, and learned to greatly appreciate skilled master techs for the hard-earned, experienced knowledge they've developed.

Rebuilt the suspension a half dozen times, until I found a combination I was happy with (incl bushings, coilovers, anti-sway bars). Installed a high-performance radiator, all new hoses in the engine bay, all the fluids, seals, gaskets; brakes, window tracks/regulator/parts, timing belt, tensioner, lighting; soft top, roll bar; and the little stuff like oil/filter, air filters, tire rotations, and a few other "engine bay" items I've long since forgotten. Had a shop do the exhaust, had another shop do the alignments. Never had to crack open the engine block, alternator was fine, and the clutch was fine. Well-maintained. Probably in better shape than when I purchased it with ~10Kmi on it.

For me, though, the CX-5's got a bit more complexity, more stuff stuffed into the engine bay, more stuff in the way. Probably not much harder, but I'm another 25+ years older.
 
If someone is looking for a cheaper option, these might work. I can't vouch for them, but the lengths and studs are correct. As it sits I have the Super Pros maxed out, so a little more length would be nice.


Another option:

 
I would like this thread merged with the other. I'll post this here so it all stays in order when merged.

I plan on installing these tomorrow.

View attachment 330188
Hi there. I have a 2025 and looking to install CS lowering springs. I've read this whole thread and there was so much information, it was kind of overwhelming lol So if you would be so kind as to confirm, all I need is the lowering springs and these adjustable end links and I'll be good? I read elsewhere that I would need rear camber arms to get proper camber, did you do that?
 
Hi there. I have a 2025 and looking to install CS lowering springs. I've read this whole thread and there was so much information, it was kind of overwhelming lol So if you would be so kind as to confirm, all I need is the lowering springs and these adjustable end links and I'll be good? I read elsewhere that I would need rear camber arms to get proper camber, did you do that?
You should absolutely not install lowering springs on your factory struts.
 
Hi there. I have a 2025 and looking to install CS lowering springs. I've read this whole thread and there was so much information, it was kind of overwhelming lol So if you would be so kind as to confirm, all I need is the lowering springs and these adjustable end links and I'll be good? I read elsewhere that I would need rear camber arms to get proper camber, did you do that?
Yes. The arms from LYKT on eBay or Megan Racing will work.

See this thread for more recent discussion on the end links: Question about suspension upgrades
 
Just wanted to add there are adjustable end links from HARDRACE available as well below:




I have the HARDRACE front and rear sway bars on my 21 GTR awd lowered with corksport springs and bilstein struts shocks but using stock end links. I had one of the nuts fall off my rear stock end links last year. I may try either these HARDRACE adjustable end links or go with the godspeed ones.

Since I had this done I've noticed a slight tap or click noise a tap or a click whenever going into reverse (after going forward) on an uneven surface. Not sure if it's related to the end links...
 
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Just wanted to add there are adjustable end links from HARDRACE available as well
Those must be new! Good find.

Since I had this done I've boxed a slight tap or click noise a tap or a click whenever going into reverse (after going forward) on an eneven surface. Not sure if it's related to the end links...
I doubt it, but you'll notice a big improvement in ride quality when you install them.
 
Those must be new! Good find.


I doubt it, but you'll notice a big improvement in ride quality when you install them.
If the links are adjusted to zero preload at ride height and don't bind or have interference over the travel distance, then it's good.

Unless the OP is road or other racing he won't feel a difference.

Nice find and see that our CX5s are getting some love from the aftermarket!
 
If someone is looking for a cheaper option, these might work. I can't vouch for them, but the lengths and studs are correct. As it sits I have the Super Pros maxed out, so a little more length would be nice.



But my biggest question in all of this is, why didn't the lengths I thought I needed turn out to be accurate? Especially at the rear—those should have been 150-51=99mm. But I ended up at 125mm, or only a 25mm shortening. The only answer that makes sense is that there is factory preload and the sway bars aren't actually at "zero" stock. But I'm not going through the trouble to figure that out. All that matters is that it's correct now.

I rolled the dice and ordered these godspeed adjustable links (they were less than half the price of the corksport ones), should be in next week.

Hopefully they work with my setup of corksport lowering spring, bilstein struts shocks, hardrace front & rear sway bars, megan racing rear camber arms.

Will let you all know if they work.
 
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I rolled the dice and ordered these godspeed adjustable links (they were less than half the price of the corksport ones), should be in next week.

Hopefully they work with my setup of corksport lowering spring, bilstein struts shocks, hardrace front & rear sway bars, megan racing rear camber arms.
Let us know how they for and work!
 
I rolled the dice and ordered these godspeed adjustable links (they were less than half the price of the corksport ones), should be in next week.

Hopefully they work with my setup of corksport lowering spring, bilstein struts shocks, hardrace front & rear sway bars, megan racing rear camber arms.

Will let you all know if they work.

Sounds like a great setup

What are the rear camber arms for? To "fitment" or to dial the rear camber in for performance purposes?
 
I rolled the dice and ordered these godspeed adjustable links (they were less than half the price of the corksport ones), should be in next week.

Hopefully they work with my setup of corksport lowering spring, bilstein struts shocks, hardrace front & rear sway bars, megan racing rear camber arms.

Will let you all know if they work.

Can you tell us more about how the ride and handling has changed with your new setup? & what wheels/tires you are running?

Especially if you installed each part separately, and wouldn't mind giving us a brief break-down of how each part individually influenced handling?

I tend to be pretty spirited around corners with my Mazda 6 - All stock suspension - There is too much body roll when pushing hard, but the suspension itself is overall perfectly satisfactory for a daily driving. The problem is the open differential, especially when attempting to put down power around tighter bends.
 
I agree, I couldn't see a clear advantage to buy Corksport parts. My opinion of Corksport diminished with their "cold air intake" that pulls hot air into the engine from the engine bay through a substandard filter. I made my own and posted a thread. It's a real cai and keeps low-end torque, fuel economy, and factory air filtration. I also installed a Filter Minder that measures air filter pressure drop. Cheap mod and takes the guess work out if the air filter is restricting air flow. The cost is a fraction of these so called CAIs.

I purchased SPC rear lower control arms and adustable front camber bolts. Front camber bolts are inexpensive and easy to install. The alignment shop did a great job getting all four corners to factory spec.

We will see how long the bushings last on the SPC control arms. I'll look for replacement urethane bushings when these are worn...
 
Sounds like a great setup

What are the rear camber arms for? To "fitment" or to dial the rear camber in for performance purposes?

The adjustable rear camber arms were needed to be able to adjust the rear camber back to factory settings after lowering it. The factory arms would have left too much negative camber.
 
The adjustable rear camber arms were needed to be able to adjust the rear camber back to factory settings after lowering it. The factory arms would have left too much negative camber.
What about the fronts? No camber plates needed?
 
Can you tell us more about how the ride and handling has changed with your new setup? & what wheels/tires you are running?

Especially if you installed each part separately, and wouldn't mind giving us a brief break-down of how each part individually influenced handling?

I tend to be pretty spirited around corners with my Mazda 6 - All stock suspension - There is too much body roll when pushing hard, but the suspension itself is overall perfectly satisfactory for a daily driving. The problem is the open differential, especially when attempting to put down power around tighter bends.
My apologies, I should have mentioned my wheels. For spring summer I use 20" x 8.5" Flow One F2's on 245/45R20 Continental Extreme Contact DWS06.

I had all the suspension parts installed at the same time. The handling was much better, feels more car like and way more planted the turns off ramps etc. The ride is slightly stiffer but none of my passengers have complained. I would be tempted to take it on a simple auto cross if allowed (not sure if they allow SUVs)...

Once I get these adjustable end links in (pending the lengths work) I will fill up on 93 and test out the handling more so. Weather is finally getting better here.

I mentioned this in an earlier post that I do get a click clunk tapping noise when going from forward to reverse or over uneven surface, may be the oem end links.

Regarding the front, the alignment shop was able to get it done using the stock parts.
 
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Just wanted to confirm the correct install process for these.

Jack up the CX-5 (I have a quickjack so can lift all 4 wheels at once), remove the wheels,
The links are in.

Before & After:

View attachment 330306

It should be obvious what the difference is!

So the question is: did relaxing the sway bars fix the crashiness of my suspension that I was experiencing over every road imperfection? The short answer is yes. It seems I have my damping back. It's still a bit rough but I have another thing to try for that.

The final zero-preload sway bar link lengths with the Corksport 2" lowering springs are:

Front: ~342mm
Rear: ~125mm (set to 122 for better thread engagement--I wanted at least two full turns on the threads)

This is measured stud-to-stud.

Now to chase down the clunks. I believe I have discovered the causes and am addressing them very soon.
Regarding the installation, I read through the cs instructions and it stated to replace the end links while the car is jacked up wheels off.

Just to confirm the proper process, after you replace the end links while jacked up wheels off, do you then put the wheels back on put it on ramps and do the final adjustments?
 
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