Audio Wire diagram for OEM Head Unit Mazda6 2014

[BadJuJu02]

Hello all proud owners of a Mazda 6 2014!

If you are here reading this thread because you looked all over the internet's for a wiring diagram to add a amp to stock OEM head unit but could not find one, then you are in luck! After much searching myself and unable to turn up any concrete wiring diagrams, I had to just jump in there and figure it out. Below is a couple pictures I took of the OEM harness and what wires are for the FR, FL, RR, RL

Legends:
FR = Front Right
FL = Front Left
RR = Rear Right
RL = Rear Left

WARNING: www.mazdas247.com and I are not responsible if you do anything to void your warranty, mess up your sound system, blow your amp, or anything else that YOU decide to do even if you are following my half-assed directions. Everything that YOU do, is at YOUR OWN RISK!! You have been warned.

PLEASE MAKE SURE TO DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY WIRE CUTTING!

Note: The OEM Harness is upside down, facing the back.

If the image sucks, I apologize, here is also a written wire diagram

FL
Brown + (positive)
Dark Green - (negative)

FR
Black/Yellow + (positive)
Light Green - (negative)

RL
Red/White + (positive)
Blue/Yellow - (negative)

RR
Red + (positive)
Blue - (negative)

 

[nicogb13]

Sub and amp install

So how then do I install an amp (sound ordnance m350) into the OEM head unit?, sorry I'm new at this.

 

[summum]

Very strange. Front left and rear left like they dont mach your diagram. I was in garage 30 min ago and look at measurements:





I need to send Mazda Email if they can send me wiring diagram

 

[theblooms]

Very strange. Front left and rear left like they dont mach your diagram. I was in garage 30 min ago and look at measurements:





I need to send Mazda Email if they can send me wiring diagram

Just use a PAC AOEM-MAZ2 interface. Not cutting required with that harness.

 

[summum]

It's more complicated. I use 2 way components, so I needed + and - as an input for crossovers.

That's 6 speakers system. So for front doors and front speakers in dashboard is one output from multimedia. Somewhere there is Y crossing, but for doors are going other colors, not the same as for dash speakers, although they are on same output.

I'm waiting for holder for fuse housing.
I ordered by work something to be made for me. And I will then connect amp. Wirings are done, just plug and play (hope so). I have additional 32m speaker cables and 7m 35mm² for + and - for amp.

Front in doors are Hertz 165 XL 300W rms, tweeter are in dashboard. Back are 110W rms Hertz Mille 165 pro

Amplifier is Steg k4.02 4 channel

Tweeter first were in door bei knee but then I put thrm directly on output for dashboard speakers, cause they are more suitable to be there because better sound.

For tweeters in back door I drilled wholes and they are perfect there.

Amp first I hid in trunk but in fear to be overheated, I will mount to the back seat

 

[youri]

You might be able to find a wiring diagram in the manuals here:

The post is in the Cx-5 thread but it has manuals for different models.

2016 and up CX-5 Service Manual

Hi, I just completed a full engine replacement in my CX-9 2.5t (my post in CX-9 forum) and while looking for torque specs I found a service manual for the CX-5 here is a link https://mazdamanuals.com.au/wsm-secure/WSM/D9K4-1A-21B_Ver13/ Enjoy!!!!

mazdas247.com

 

[theblooms]

You're way overthinking this

A couple of things:
#1: what DSP are you running? With Hertz and Steg, you know what high end is. If you don't have one, get one.
All you need is a single pair or RCA outputs to feed the DSP. The DSP will take care of all the rest.

#2: ditch the factory head unit. I suggest a Kenwood Excelon with wireless Android Auto, but Alpine, Pioneer, JVC, and Sony also make great decks.

And whichever you choose, make sure it's iDataLink Maestro RR compatatible. That way you keep your steering wheel controls, you add extra functionality to them with long vs short press, and finally, you'll get full gauges right on the stereo.

 

[summum]

Thanks Youri, I will search.

Theblooms:

okay, I was searching to buy PAC for Mazda, like everybody did. But it's quite difficult to find it where I live. I get something else, was made it for Mazda 6 and was like this explained to me:

DSP will be in trunk and behind unit will be this set of cables:



8 speaker wires from that cables are going to DSP like INPUT in DSP like this:



From DSP with two RCA cables will be INPUT in amp like this:





Now, from AMP as OUTPUT is going 8 wires back to cable set, to original speaker wiring from car:



Now, problem that I have: I didn't want to buy 40$ 4 this:



But I should, like we see, cause I cannot find which are + or -, because multimeter is showing something else on front and rear left as first picture on this post. Also my friend told me red shoud be + and blue -, but multimeter shows something else.

I will remove all 4 door panel next friday and he will check everything with multimeter before we try with amp.

We should be able to see in which direction is membrane from speaker moving.

Changing unit is not options. I will buy one subwoofer 8''as soon I see that everything works and brigde two channels for speakers and two for subwoofer.

More investment in this, and my wife will shot me in legs and let me bleed to death: second baby is coming in august, we are searching for furniture for apartment etc...

 

[theblooms]

I get it with the kids. Totally. We had a FAST Camaro that we used to race on the weekends. I loved that car. But when the kids came, the Camaro went.

For the tweeters, I suggest placing the crossovers behind the kick panels and simply running new speaker wire to them straight up from there. You can probably sneak new speaker wires for the mids through the white connectors in the doors as well. I've done this with all of my Mazdas, going all the way back to my 92 323. It's really not that hard. This is my CX5 and how I have it wired. All Mazdas are similar if not identical.

 

[summum]

Well, thanks for that. I gave up from tweeter over crossover in dashboard because I couldn't bring wires to them through door. I want to put capacitor on minus wiring on tweeter.

If I remember good, there are 2 those white connectors, one is on door, second is in car? I need to drill bought, but I'm not sure how to approach and remove left one, by driver side? I can remember it's pretty tight there

You have more pics maybe? It would be complete with tweeters connected on crossovers

 

[theblooms]

No drilling needed. There is space on the side to fish wires through like in my pic. And yes, there are two parts that unclip from one another. That's how they install the door.