2014 Mazda 3 trailer light wiring harness

[rocketball]

Just installed a hiden hitch onto my 2014 mazda 3 gs sport. Doing research now to find what type of wiring harness I need for the trailer lights. I found this one from Curt. just wondering if there were any other options out there. thanks

http://www.curtmfg.com/Search?term=56194

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

You might want to check out the eTrailer options as well.



http://www.etrailer.com/t1-2014_Mazda_3.htm


I installed mine as per this thread through the rubber grommet where spare tire is located. A lot cleaner... I didn't like the option where the wiring is simply flopped out and rear door is slammed on it.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...tall-a-Non-Factory-CX-5-Trailer-Harness/page2

I assume the 3 has this grommet as well.

I just went with the wire tap option and not the dedicated run to the battery. I changed all of my trailer lights to LED so load is really low and has performed flawlessly.

 

[BrianM3GS]

Good idea to check the eTrailer listings; they are often very helpful. In this case, they show the same Curt, plus the equivalent Tow-Ready. There are multiple versions to suit the different connectors of the LED and incandescent lights. Both brands plug in to the factory connectors, so there is no tapping of wires, which is good. Both brands have powered converters so they don't overload the car's lighting circuits, which is good. After a brief look, there doesn't seem to be much difference between brands.

The wiring for the lights should work out fine. Now what about brakes?

Rocketball - how heavy will your trailer be, does it have brakes, and if so what kind are they? If you have electric trailer brakes, this lighting wiring will work, but you will need to add more wiring for the brakes.

Kedis82ZE8 - I see that your trailer only weighs 850 pounds empty, but presumably it will be much heavier when loaded... so it should have brakes. It looks like your wiring doesn't support electric trailer brakes; do you have surge brakes on the trailer?

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

Good idea to check the eTrailer listings; they are often very helpful. In this case, they show the same Curt, plus the equivalent Tow-Ready. There are multiple versions to suit the different connectors of the LED and incandescent lights. Both brands plug in to the factory connectors, so there is no tapping of wires, which is good. Both brands have powered converters so they don't overload the car's lighting circuits, which is good. After a brief look, there doesn't seem to be much difference between brands.

The wiring for the lights should work out fine. Now what about brakes?

Rocketball - how heavy will your trailer be, does it have brakes, and if so what kind are they? If you have electric trailer brakes, this lighting wiring will work, but you will need to add more wiring for the brakes.

Kedis82ZE8 - I see that your trailer only weighs 850 pounds empty, but presumably it will be much heavier when loaded... so it should have brakes. It looks like your wiring doesn't support electric trailer brakes; do you have surge brakes on the trailer?

Trailer brakes in my state are only required on trailers if total gross weight exceeds 3000lbs (1360Kg).

Always a good idea to have them though. Long distance runs with trailer are almost always empty and heavier loads are short, local and low speed.

 

[BrianM3GS]

I cleaned out my spare tire well recently, so I had a chance to provide some more information which might be useful.

I installed mine as per this thread through the rubber grommet where spare tire is located...
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...tall-a-Non-Factory-CX-5-Trailer-Harness/page2

I assume the 3 has this grommet as well.

The grommet situation isn't really convenient, at least in the Sport (hatchback). In the attached photos:

1. The spare tire well, cover removed, for orientation.
2. Same spare tires well, with the spare and the moulded foam insert removed, showing the bare floor. There are a couple of large black rubber plugs... but are they usable?
3. Under the floor, showing that the muffler occupies all the space under the floor at the rear, and above it are heat shields. The rubber plugs are hidden above the shields, and not reasonably usable. The sheilds are riveted on, explaining the rivets visible inside in the previous photo.
4. In the driver's side rear corner, there is an accessible rubber plug.
5. Above that corner is this jack compartment (shown with door removed).
6. Looking down into the compartment, there's the plug. View attachment 211003

I would use this plug under the jack, or the similar one on the other side (which is only visible after removing the passenger side interior trim panel), to run the wiring outside. Access to the tail lights is through these same areas anyway.