ap datalog

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Mazdaspeed3
so here a 1st through 3rd gear pull with the stage 2 v104 map.

seems on another datalog i ran i should be putting in those internals i bought and i may now that i saw i hit nearly 900 psi for fuel pressure on a 2nd and 3rd gear pull.

on another note....this doesnt look to bad. seems i lost some fuel pressure again but not as severe. i was having problems with boost spike but the few runs i ran on data log put down what i assume as perfect boost. sometimes i spike at around 20-21 but its always the same result once it comes back down. i tried to fix it with the throttle close table and even when i decreased the values by 3 full points nothing happened so i put it back to stock stage 2 values. anyway...what do you think? besides the fuel pressure...

oh does anyone else have such a drop off in boost at 6g? seems a little low of a number seeming how the tune is supposed to put out 19 psi and drop to 17....im getting a max boost of 19 or so and sinking to a 15.8. i know the values are set to be (+,-) 1.5 psi but even then seems low to me.


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so as it appears i am going to keep my fp internals and install them before i install Ken's and the PG teams FMIC. i did another data log and need the internals. ill do some data logs after i install the internals to show the difference or before and after. i like the way my parameters look thus far though. any comments?
 
it looks like your spiking to 19 holding ~17.5 and tapering to 16ish. Its hard to tell how good the tune is b/c you dont have throttle position in the log, so I cant tell when you floor it or are at part throttle.... you are getting a bit lean at the top end tho. i would add a touch more fuel to get you back in the 11's. do another pull with accel position and elect throttle position n post it up.

How are the LTFT's?

All tunes taper off over 6k. so i wouldnt be worried
 
yea im not sure i like how the v104 stage 2 map is running with this car. i think im going to be better off with the v103. my a/f is leaning out, my fp is giving up mid range, and it doesnt seem to have what it did before. i feel worried to get on it even. im going to run the 103 stage 2 map and see how it goes instead of spending all the time on the parameters. my ltft's on the 103 map were 2-4% but now theyre like 6-8% and the cars running worse. i guess me and the older maps just clicked.

my throttle positiong is pretty much WOT throughout. im dont think i ffs when i did this log but even still i have a mean shift so its not like there was a delay. ill just revert back.
 
i will give you the advice i got...
"if your fuel pump can't keep up then no WOT till you upgrade or you risk lean conditions and pop"

i got the upgraded internals and everything is fine and dandy!
 
I was the same when i got my 1st tune. I got retuned at Akuma and am confident in the way the car behaves now. Since your somewhat close to them it might be worth the trip once you get your fmic and internals.

My fp was showing similar symptoms as your fp, hitting ~1400psi at 4.5k. I brought it up with Cobb and this was the response.

"If you look at that run, your FP does drop, but your AFR is bellow 11:1 and your injector pulse width is 72ms. Then the next load cell, pulse width is down to 8ms and pressure is back up. Remember, there are two ways to inject fuel, high pressure and shorter duty cycle, or lower pressure and longer duty cycle AND since this is at a lower RPM there is more time to inject fuel."


Your fp is back at 1700psi at the top end so it might not necessarily need to be replaced. but if you have a DH i would set an alarm or something just in case. the drop in fp for me is every once in a while, if yours is consistant i would talk to a professional and get their opinion
 
Man is there a better frame rate for the AP to record at? A lot can happen in the 200rpm jumps that it is recording at. But yah the fuel pump is a little concerning, at your peak boosts on the log is when the fuel pressure drops to around 1300 or a little below. Though no real changes in your AFR which is good because at WOT if it jumped because of the fuel pump not giving enough then I think you will blow the motor..
 
the less parameters you monitor, the higher the frequency. so if you monitor just fp you'll probably get a reading every 25-50 rpm
 
the biggest problem im facing now is 3rd gear. the others hold nothing really below 1400-1500 psi which if i dont WOT often i dont mind if it only happens once and a while. but now i just saw today when i went to try 1 more run to watch the fp the whole rpm range it literally takes a s*** on the car and drops to like 600-700!!!!!!! ,y a/f ratios hang tight at what they should no matter the fuel pressure drop so im a little confused otherwise.

i saw that today and felt the power loss and was like uhhhh nope. not doing that anymore. so when the fmic comes in, should i install the internals also or wait until i get the tune because my stock internals might do the job with a proper tune? i have the CDI's, wish they were the kmd's for safety sake but installed correctly, cleaned with brake cleaner and lubed with oil, i should be all set when installed. i might just install them before the tune to see how everything runs first so they dont seize up when theyre doing the tune. that would be a big waste. suggestions?

p.s. was this a road tune you got or a dyno tune? and what was the cost if you dont mind me asking?
 
I say if you have the internals, install them. If you plan on doing the Front mount or anything else its always good to have the safety of a properly working fuel pump. If its dipping before spec now then I dont think its safe to try to see if a tune will fix it. Yeahhh it sucks spending the money on the internals and might not need them but its better than the 3500 for a new motor if it comes to that.
 
I say if you have the internals, install them. If you plan on doing the Front mount or anything else its always good to have the safety of a properly working fuel pump. If its dipping before spec now then I dont think its safe to try to see if a tune will fix it. Yeahhh it sucks spending the money on the internals and might not need them but its better than the 3500 for a new motor if it comes to that.

wish me luck on the cdi's. i have a theory that they "suck" because people were installing them wrong. with proper installation i think theyll work just fine as the kmd's would, minus the cool coating the kmd's have, but then again i think that would just effect how they work not IF they work.

EDIT: i think i deleted one of my posts.

anyway to retype something quick....got the CDI's in and theyre working great thus far.
 
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its about 11.4 now that i look at it. i thought it said 10.4. isnt 11.4 pretty lean at WOT? i always thought 10.5 within a few 0.X was ideal. thanks for pointing that out so id recheck.
 
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I was tuned for 11.6-11.8 at WOT

good to know. it was just....different seeing my a/f go from 9.5 to 11.5. then this beast is good to go. ready for the FMIC. just gotta monitor the fuel pressure over the next few weeks and see how the internsals hold up.
 
Yep...11:5 thru 11:8 is ideal on most forced induction applications.

The 11 is parts air and the 5 is part fuel.
10:5 is "richer" in fuel than 11:5.
 
not exactly. its 11.8:1 meaning 11.8 parts air 1 part fuel. they wouldnt call it 10:5 if it was the way you stated it would be 2:1. Cylinders arent filled 1/2 with fuel when running lol
 
not exactly. its 11.8:1 meaning 11.8 parts air 1 part fuel. they wouldnt call it 10:5 if it was the way you stated it would be 2:1. Cylinders arent filled 1/2 with fuel when running lol

+1. 10.5 parts air to 1 part fuel. damn 1/2 and 1/2?! s*** would be blowing flames if it could ignite!.. lol
 

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