Boostscience RDV, and custom injen/hotpipe

[Jboost]

I hate You!!! MY Boostscience sounded like poop!!!! I didnt install it like that either, it almost sounds like its VTA.

You didn't put the T to the left of the check valve either?

 

[Jboost]

Yes, the check valve should be on the drivers side of your cut. The idea is that it blocks boost from going to your BB canister, but allows vacuum... so the tap needs to be on the engine side of the valve.

Let me make sure i have this right cause once this thing goes into the tube it isn't coming out. it should go Intake Manifold--> vaccum T-->check valve-->brake booster

 

[505zoom]

Let me make sure i have this right cause once this thing goes into the tube it isn't coming out. it should go Intake Manifold--> vaccum T-->check valve-->brake booster

Correct.

 

[505zoom]

Just remember to MAKE SURE you put it back in going the right direction. It blocks the boost going to the BB, and allows vacuum back towards the engine.

 

[Jboost]

Yeah I remeber how exactly what it looked like cause we cut the vac line and I went ******* great waht is that thing it looks hella important, s*** another problem.

 

[mgerst1]

so should the new nipples be 1" or 1 1/2" i only ask because i am getting my new turbohoses in soon and need to know what to have welded on them, also where can i buy the boostsciences RDV?

 

[Jboost]

directly from www.boostsciences.com i used 1" which 505zoom said would work his are 1.5" if i do remember correctly. You need to modify your intake with one as well. I'm still trying to get mine all figured out not enough time with 18 hours of school 30 hours of work, 5 hours of girlfriend and 6 hours of home work (rant)

 

[mikeski]

I have the su hard pipes with the stock size nipple on the hot pipe. im running the dual set up with stock bpv and an hks ssqv with the bov and bpv line running to the BB. I am turkey free.

 

[mgerst1]

directly from www.boostsciences.com i used 1" which 505zoom said would work his are 1.5" if i do remember correctly. You need to modify your intake with one as well. I'm still trying to get mine all figured out not enough time with 18 hours of school 30 hours of work, 5 hours of girlfriend and 6 hours of home work (rant)

will most shops have the 1" pipe that would have to be welded on? if not can i pick this up at autoparts stores?

 

[mikeski]

here are some pics....oh, dont mind the t on the right. I know it is coming out. its now fixed with clamps rather than zip ties.

 

[Jboost]

will most shops have the 1" pipe that would have to be welded on? if not can i pick this up at autoparts stores?

most shops should have it you just need 1" ID pipe that is made of the same material as your intake and hot pipe which i'm guessing is aluminium(spelling) I am warning you though mine is still not 100% perfect so you might have to work at this to get it right.

 

[mgerst1]

what is still wrong? does it turkey sometimes? maybe the extra half inch makes a difference and i should go 1.5?

 

[mgerst1]

what did you mean when you said it wasnt 100% still? did you run off the hot or cold pipe? any crimps in the vac line? does it still have the turkey? if so is it all the time or at certain power levels? are you satisfied in general with this solution? could you take a pic of your setup?

 

[Jboost]

Sorry I didn't respond right away. There is a tiny bit of turkey like miniscual amounts. What pisses me of is if the BPV opens in and I go directly to neutral the car really wants to stall. I'm still trying to figure out how to shorten the lines that run to and from the BPV, there is like a total of about 2 feet and one of them wants to collapse, I am 99% positive that this is why i'm having issues still. I ran off the hotpipe to the BPV to the intake. I have pictures I will send in a PM cause there ****** huge.

 

[mgerst1]

have you tried using a silicone vac line, i saw your pics and it might be the lines your using as vac lines

 

[505zoom]

...there is like a total of about 2 feet and one of them wants to collapse, I am 99% positive that this is why i'm having issues still...

Yeah, a kinked or slightly collapsed hose can definitely cause those issues.

 

[Jboost]

Would there be any issues if i put a 90 degree on the intake to make the tubing about foot and a half shorter and get rid of the tubing wanting to bend

 

[505zoom]

If you use a sharp 90* fitting, it may make things worse. If you find yourself a nice smooth radius 90* bend though, that should work great.

 

[505zoom]

Also, try to shorten up your hotpipe->BPV hose as much as possible, even if it is at the expense of having to make the BPV->intake hose longer.

 

[mgerst1]

yeah thats what i thought, i thought you would want the rdv as close to the hotpipe fitting as possible and then run your line to the air intake at whatever length you need.