Installed my front and side mounts from SLS Performance. So far so good! The engine moves little to none, no impact on shifting, vibration is slight if any, and the tires plant well with both mounts on. Installation was a snap.Can't wait for their rear mount to be released.
SLS mounts are in.....
- Thread starter BOOSTR
- Start date
install tips
I did the side mount first with all 4 tires on the ground and using a floor jack with a piece of wood to support the weight of the engine. Soak the nuts and bolts with liquid wrench prior to loosening.
There are 3 - 17mm nuts to remove near the timing cover. Then take off 3 - 14mm bolts and 1-14 mm nut and pull the oem side mount out of the way. You'll need 2 new bolts with washers to anchor the side mount. I went with 17mm head 10 x 1.50 pitch bolts. The supplied bolts are too big in diameter to fit in the fenderwall holes. You do reuse the oem nuts near the timing cover. The mount comes with a 19mm bolt and nut to mount it to the bracket.
I put the car on jackstands to do the front mount. Using the jack again to raise the engine ever so slightly allowed the mounting bolt to slide right out. Only 3 - 17mm nuts to remove, 2 on the mount studs and 1 on the mounting bolt. Once all are removed the mount rotates right out. Use the supplied bolts with the oem nuts to secure the new mount. Make sure the bracket is lined up with the holes in the crossmember so the bolts slide through. You'll have to pry the mount in to the exact position.
Working this way allowed me to leave my cai and hardpipe in place. There was no room for me to get to the nut on the mounting bolt from the top. Its a very easy job. Use your 1/2 drive ratchet and deep sockets with a breaker pipe/bar to loosen the bolts and nuts. Don't waste your time with smaller tools.
I did the side mount first with all 4 tires on the ground and using a floor jack with a piece of wood to support the weight of the engine. Soak the nuts and bolts with liquid wrench prior to loosening.
There are 3 - 17mm nuts to remove near the timing cover. Then take off 3 - 14mm bolts and 1-14 mm nut and pull the oem side mount out of the way. You'll need 2 new bolts with washers to anchor the side mount. I went with 17mm head 10 x 1.50 pitch bolts. The supplied bolts are too big in diameter to fit in the fenderwall holes. You do reuse the oem nuts near the timing cover. The mount comes with a 19mm bolt and nut to mount it to the bracket.
I put the car on jackstands to do the front mount. Using the jack again to raise the engine ever so slightly allowed the mounting bolt to slide right out. Only 3 - 17mm nuts to remove, 2 on the mount studs and 1 on the mounting bolt. Once all are removed the mount rotates right out. Use the supplied bolts with the oem nuts to secure the new mount. Make sure the bracket is lined up with the holes in the crossmember so the bolts slide through. You'll have to pry the mount in to the exact position.
Working this way allowed me to leave my cai and hardpipe in place. There was no room for me to get to the nut on the mounting bolt from the top. Its a very easy job. Use your 1/2 drive ratchet and deep sockets with a breaker pipe/bar to loosen the bolts and nuts. Don't waste your time with smaller tools.
Last edited:
Speed3.5
chasing electrons ..
- :
- 16' Mazda 3 AT
09' VWCC MT
14' STR
nice to hear somthing better than awr
is the f mm alot thicker than stock ?? the side mm frame looks strong ?? thick material ??
but for real when are they coming w/ the rear cuz i'm getting impatient
they've been talking about it for a while and still nothing at all
cuz i'm about to get sls mm but it be better if i get f+r at same time so i don't have to go down again and put the r on, the side can wait for now though .
if anyone has any idea when the rear is coming pm me, i'm tired of callim em up to chech on mm status.
is the f mm alot thicker than stock ?? the side mm frame looks strong ?? thick material ??
but for real when are they coming w/ the rear cuz i'm getting impatient
they've been talking about it for a while and still nothing at all
cuz i'm about to get sls mm but it be better if i get f+r at same time so i don't have to go down again and put the r on, the side can wait for now though .
if anyone has any idea when the rear is coming pm me, i'm tired of callim em up to chech on mm status.
Its not any more thick in terms of mounting it in the oem bracket, just has a solid mass around the bolt sleeve compared to the flexible rubber oem front. Its a perfect fit and good alternative to other options. The frames on these mounts are definitely stout.
I had 64K on my stock mounts. Only my side mount was ripped. For the price of one oem side mount, I picked up both mounts from SLS. Money well spent as far as I'm concerned. I'm sure its only a matter of time until they fab up a rear mount. In the meantime these two are working quite well together.
I had 64K on my stock mounts. Only my side mount was ripped. For the price of one oem side mount, I picked up both mounts from SLS. Money well spent as far as I'm concerned. I'm sure its only a matter of time until they fab up a rear mount. In the meantime these two are working quite well together.
SLSPERFORMANCE
Member
We have our bushing made for us by another company. Our motor mounts are rebuildable.
There is some vibration present at idle now that the engine is anchored more solidly. But it does not transfer thru to the steering wheel or seats. So its nothing like the shake you would get from ridiculously stiff mounts or broken mounts. I have no regrets about switching to SLS mounts, they perform as advertised in my MSP.
Ive got the sls side mount and an awr rear mount (they were both torn).. Dont know how it rides since my transmission is out right now.. Should have it back together tomorrow night though.. Ive got to get a front mount too, mine is starting to tear.. Guess Ill get the sls one when I get some extra money..
