MSP Engine Swap Notes
- Thread starter jeffmsp
- Start date
Notorious_V.I.C
Member
- :
- 2003.5 MSP
oh..I wonder if it's possible to give the dealership forged internals and all the things required and see if they can build the engine. But I'm sure the dealership would charge a ricdiously large amount..
the last place i would bring a motor for assembly is a dealership. Find a local motorshop that has experience assembling 4 cylinder motors. some will even give you a year warranty on their work. The dealer is gonna rape you for cash and while not all dealership mechs are idiots, many are really well educated, you never know who in the end is actually working on the motor. What if they dont even care and just do a s*** job on it..id bring it to a good shop.
Notorious_V.I.C
Member
- :
- 2003.5 MSP
jeffmsp said:
Yea I talked to Turbo Hoses, who have done great job on my IC set-up and I have seen in first hand all the engine work they get done. I was told around $6500 for a fully built engine. I saw that price and I'm like, damn I'll hold on that until my engine goes. Which i hope isn't soon.
Damn, dude. $6,500 better come with fully coated internals, a crank walk fix... and a blowjob or two. That's expensive.
There are several folks available who have experience with the FS and could do a good job for far less than that. Or just do what Jeff does and keep throwing cheap used ones in there. Something to be said for that.
There are several folks available who have experience with the FS and could do a good job for far less than that. Or just do what Jeff does and keep throwing cheap used ones in there. Something to be said for that.
if i had a forged set of pistons and rods sitting right here i would remove the upper and lower oil pan, remove the cylidner head. Remove the rod end caps and push the old rod/piston out through the head then reinstall the new pistons/rods/bearings. Then reassemble per spec with new headgasket. Sorta like a makeshift rebuild lol should only take a day or a few nights work when you come home after your real job. sounds better then 6500 to me.
anyone else have insight on this chicken or the egg thing ? I wonder if I rebuilt the motor with better bearings and used royal purple oil if I would have this problem again. I really think the rod bent since it had so much room to move around it may have occasionally have been increasing the compression ratio and one nice bang then the rod bent.
well my check engine light came on last night. I had a hunch it was the primary 02 sensor since i am at 106,xxxkms. ~5000+km on the new motor using the old 02 sensor. I pull the 02 and it looked like it had been through hell and back. Several large pieces of it destroyed and not present in exhaust, im assuming they are in my muffler now since i have no cats. I replaced with the 02 sensor I got from the n/a motor (they were nice enough to include manifolds and sensors) reset the ECU and the car is back to running great again. It is so cold I am spiking 9-10psi on stock boost, but still down to 7psi at redline. Gotta love the cold.
Here are some new pics from the new gf's camera. still not the greatest.
as you can see the rod is not bent very much, hard to see but its definately bent when you line it up with the other rods its easier to see.
The second picture shows my roasted 02 sensor.(guess it didnt like me adding 5 litres of methenol + 94 octane that already has 10% ethenol in my tank on fill ups and the methenol i was injecting in the intake charge lol )
The last picture shows how the two connecting rod bearings fused together (however still can be spun on the crank and are still whole) and the section of the bearing that is completely worn through in the middle of it exposing the crank. I tried to get some better shots but with the flash I couldnt get anything decent and I have poor lighting so I can shoot without it.
as you can see the rod is not bent very much, hard to see but its definately bent when you line it up with the other rods its easier to see.
The second picture shows my roasted 02 sensor.(guess it didnt like me adding 5 litres of methenol + 94 octane that already has 10% ethenol in my tank on fill ups and the methenol i was injecting in the intake charge lol )
The last picture shows how the two connecting rod bearings fused together (however still can be spun on the crank and are still whole) and the section of the bearing that is completely worn through in the middle of it exposing the crank. I tried to get some better shots but with the flash I couldnt get anything decent and I have poor lighting so I can shoot without it.
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here you can see the difference between the piston that was in the "variable compression cylinder" compared to the others which are all still covered in carbon. None of the pistons are damaged, just have carbon buildup. The rings look fine but Im guessing a micrometer will probobly reveal otherwise. Here is a pic of the spark plug from the "variable compression cylinder" lol
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heres the hawtness that made the pics possible. (no i would never let a blonde drive my car, she just wanted to be in one of the pictures(upbum) )
and i cant forgot a picture of my "cold medicine" I dont know how I would have stayed sain through all this without plently of these (drunk)
and i cant forgot a picture of my "cold medicine" I dont know how I would have stayed sain through all this without plently of these (drunk)
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I dont think so Im thinking it was the bearing got worn out from lack of oil from the pan not having baffles which caused the rod to bend in the end. I dont think I ever leaned out, I managed my s*** nicely never had a lean engine code before and people put down much higher numbers then I did on stock motors. Im one of those guys that checks his plugs daily and compression every week, I looked after every last part of the motor always making sure I wasnt ******* something. Plus I never had slicks or crazy sticky tires on the car so I doubt I ever actually hooked up hard enough on a launch or a shift to overload the stock rods. If it can last 200 hard runs at the track on sticky tires with blkzoomzoom driving the s*** out of the car I sure as **** didnt bend them from 14psi-10psi on street tires, heck I was I was making that kind of power. I doubt I was making over 250whp. I was always side by side with my buddies civic that runs 13.8-13.9 consistantly, Im thinking I was only at like 220ishwhp on a good day with lots of torque since it was at 14psi until like 4800rpm dropping down to ~10psi at 6800-7K.
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