what could possibly be wrong?

[julianstoked]

I had a new engine put in my 1995 mazda protegeLX (about 160,000 miles) in december of 2004, and ever since then it eats alternator belts. At first, it did the loud squeeling noise for awhile and the belt broke, we had it replaced at the place that in the engine. It was fine for a few months. Then it started doing the loud squeel again. Replaced it again, and a few weeks later, it starts squeeling again. So I think that time we took it back to the same place and paid $300 for a new alternator. Again it was fine for a few weeks, and now its doing it again. I took it back the place that put in the alternator, and they say its a different belt making the noise.

The squeeling gradually gets worse each week. The noise, as of right now, only happens when you start the car, but in previous occasions, it would squeel whenever you had the lights on and would come to a stop.

I am really tired of putting so money into and still nothing. I wish I knew how to replace the belt myself, just to save myself some money.

 

[mannydingo]

Julian, this problem happens to many of us 2nd genners after a swap of anything in the general drivebelt area. In your case it was a complete engine swap but may of had an accessory changed too. I own a 96 now but when I had my 95 LX, I never had the problem. My water pump went bad one day and I changed it myself. Low and behold, the squeaking problem started with the new belt I put in it. I re-tightened it and the squealing went away only to come back like on yours and others with this problem. I re-rightened it just before I sold it and after much driving, the new owner has not heard a peep out of the car. I bought my 96 and it had the problem but it was on the other drivebelt--the one to the A/C compressor and P/S pump. I think I might have traced the problem down to the nut that hold the adjuster in place. Do you want me to explain to you how to change your drivebelt?

 

[julianstoked]

Julian, this problem happens to many of us 2nd genners after a swap of anything in the general drivebelt area. In your case it was a complete engine swap but may of had an accessory changed too. I own a 96 now but when I had my 95 LX, I never had the problem. My water pump went bad one day and I changed it myself. Low and behold, the squeaking problem started with the new belt I put in it. I re-tightened it and the squealing went away only to come back like on yours and others with this problem. I re-rightened it just before I sold it and after much driving, the new owner has not heard a peep out of the car. I bought my 96 and it had the problem but it was on the other drivebelt--the one to the A/C compressor and P/S pump. I think I might have traced the problem down to the nut that hold the adjuster in place. Do you want me to explain to you how to change your drivebelt?

That would be amazing if you could explain it to me.

 

[mannydingo]

Ok, look at the diagram below. There are three bolts you are going to work with. Two of them are bolts(A&C) and the other is actually a nut(B) that screws onto a thin bolt. Also, one of these three (bolt C) is actually the adjustment bolt so it doesn't actually tighten anything together because it's what tensions the belt. If you're belt hasn't broken yet but is squeaking and you want to tighten it, you have to drive the car onto ramps or use a jack. Loosen but don't remove bolt-A for the alternator where it allows the alternator to pivot. Go back to the top of the car and loosen the nut(B) near the adjustment bolt(C). You will now tighten the adjustment bolt(C) to tighten the belt. I think the head of that bolt points backward towards the firewall. Just turn it and keep checking the belt. Keep checking the belt, it should be tight but not so tight that you can't semi-twist it about a quarter turn or less. If you can twist it half way around so that the complete other side faces you, it's too loose--even a quarter turn is too loose. You should have a Haynes, or other, manual for your car to get an idea of how tight it should be but you can just try it with what I'm telling you. Tighten the sideways nut(B) very tight but not so tight that you break the bolt. If it does, don't worry, that one isn't one of the difficult ones to fix/replace. This is where, I think, the key to it not squealing anymore lies. It seems the torque recommended by the manufacturer for (B) isn't sufficient or the metal the bolt is made out of stretches with time. If the latter is the case, the squealing will come back. If the belt already broke, still loosen both A&B bolts and put the belt first on the crankshaft and water pump pulleys and last on the alternator pulley. Find a long non-bending pipe/lever. Pull the alternator, with pipe if needed, so it allows you to place the belt on. Use the pipe to now push the alternator in the other direction to tighten the belt as much as possible. Sometimes it's already tight, somewhat and all you need to do is start tightening bolt(C). Ramps to drive your car up on are cheap and are easier to work with than a jack in many applications, like when changing your oil. You also don't have to place jackstands under the car like you have to do with a jack when placing your body under the car so it doesn't fall on you if the jack goes.

 

[mannydingo]

2 random post ***** comment
- ungodly detailed instructions on replacing belts(thumb)
-ramps are nice unless your lowerd and you like your fron bumper

You ain't seen nothing yet. I'm going to put the little FSM diagram of the belt and bolts too. I've noticed that people that don't have experience with fixing their own cars need a lot of detail. It's a double-edged sword, though. Too much detail can confuse. It should be less confusing with the diagram I will be adding. You know, now that I think of it, I work on my own cars and still need a lot of detailed explanation on some jobs.

 

[mannydingo]

Nah, I can't say I'm going to abandon it. I just decided to add my help and get help from other forums too. I will not concentrate so much on CP almost exclusively like before. Did you check out iMazda.com ??? I guess you went and checked if my username was over there at CP with all the posting I'm doing here lately, huh?

 

[mannydingo]

Ok, Julian. I just added a little diagram picture to my above post and re-worded it to go with the diagram. It should clear things up, somewhat, so re-read it.

 

[dabe]

Ok, Julian. I just added a little diagram picture to my above post and re-worded it to go with the diagram. It should clear things up, somewhat, so re-read it.

Question: I also want to replace the same belt on my 1995 protege,
but it appears the other belt is in the way of putting this belt on.....
Must I take the other belt off??
Is it possible?? thanks for any help.......

 

[mannydingo]

Must I take the other belt off??
Is it possible?? thanks for any help.......

Yes, you must take off the belt that's in the way if you want to get at the belt on the inside. Getting a new belt on is much harder than just tightening one that's already on. Make sure the outside belt isn't in bad condition. This would obviously be a good time to replace the outside one too if it's in anywhere near bad shape.