If you have a single BOV and the MAF after the BOV I don't see why would would stall. If the MAF is before the BOV, then you are blowing off metered air. Your ECU delivers enough fuel for the metered air, so when you let off the gas quick and blow off you get an ultra-rich condition which stalls your car.
What's wrong with my car: Round 2
- Thread starter peepsalot
- Start date
- :
- Mazda Protege Titanium 03.5
peepsalot said:
I have never been able to get a consistent whoooosh noise on my setup, my bov makes a different noise about every shift. sometimes at 5k it will turkey and sometimes it will be a clean whoosh. No matter how loose or tight I adjust my bov it will still find a way to turkey occasionaly. I had to do a ton driving and adjusting until I found a good median, but my problem lies more in having a 10+ psi BOV thats seeing 6 psi
What do you have connected to the bottom nipple of your Greddy? I only have my vacuum source connected to the top nipple. I'll have to grab the instructions and see what that bottom nipple is for.
BTW, you should get the flange welded on for your Greddy. Isn't the BOV supposed to be before the TB like 12-20 inches? I guess it doesn't matter.
BTW, you should get the flange welded on for your Greddy. Isn't the BOV supposed to be before the TB like 12-20 inches? I guess it doesn't matter.
It's running fine now, don't need any more troubleshooting. I thought you were just curious what it looked like.Paul said:
The greddy is plenty secure.
This is the BOV setup that came with my BEGI FMIC, designed by the turbo guru Corky Bell. I don't question it.
The MAF location is ideal IMO.
The bottom nipple goes to a nipple I tapped into my turbo compressor housing. It's an auxillary boost source: the main vacuum source pulls on the piston, and this one pushes on it from the other side. I just hooked it back up tonight now that my car is running ok, but I haven't had much time to test it.
As far as the flange, welding things onto already powdercoated pipes is a b****. This setup works fine and I honestly don't care how it looks, just how it performs. My car is not a show car.
LOL, if you think that looks bad, you should see the exterior of my car.
problems
To answer Jurgs01, it doesn't really matter where you put it as long as it is after the turbo (ofcourse).
As for welding the BOV down to the pipe, ahh **** it! You are only running 6ish psi... if you were running like 20 psi, I could see that as a problem. LOL!
I am assuming you are sure that you are flashed??
As for the MAF getting hot, that is a good idea, except, in that case the problem would be random and sporadic.
The only thing I can possibly think of at 10:25 at night is the remote possibility that the silicone coupler is not properly sealing around the MAF. I stress remote possibility!
If I remember rightly, the MAF's outer rings have like little pieces of plastic standing out on it and your T-bolt clamps may not be hugging it tightly enough.
In any case, I wrapped my MAF's outer rings with a layer of tape to give it a smooth surface area. Once again, before I get laughed out of the forum, this is only a slight improbability!!
Bottom line: you are running super rich at the peak of your power, if unmetered air is not escaping your system, then your ECU is pulsing the injectors too long in which case it is the ECU's fault.
You are flashed right? LMAO!
As for the second problem, I don't have any clue why your car would do that, and here I thought mine was cranky. Do you by any chance have access to a digital voltmeter and if so do you know how to use the "Peak Hold" function?
If so, hook it up to the center wire on the MAF, take the car on a drive at 4000 rpm and wait for the brick wall. Pull over and check the peak voltage during your sleigh ride.
I sincerely hope that some of my rambling helps in some way because I really want another chocolate trophy! LOL!
BTW, here is where I put my MAF...
To answer Jurgs01, it doesn't really matter where you put it as long as it is after the turbo (ofcourse).
As for welding the BOV down to the pipe, ahh **** it! You are only running 6ish psi... if you were running like 20 psi, I could see that as a problem. LOL!
I am assuming you are sure that you are flashed??
As for the MAF getting hot, that is a good idea, except, in that case the problem would be random and sporadic.
The only thing I can possibly think of at 10:25 at night is the remote possibility that the silicone coupler is not properly sealing around the MAF. I stress remote possibility!
If I remember rightly, the MAF's outer rings have like little pieces of plastic standing out on it and your T-bolt clamps may not be hugging it tightly enough.
In any case, I wrapped my MAF's outer rings with a layer of tape to give it a smooth surface area. Once again, before I get laughed out of the forum, this is only a slight improbability!!
Bottom line: you are running super rich at the peak of your power, if unmetered air is not escaping your system, then your ECU is pulsing the injectors too long in which case it is the ECU's fault.
You are flashed right? LMAO!
As for the second problem, I don't have any clue why your car would do that, and here I thought mine was cranky. Do you by any chance have access to a digital voltmeter and if so do you know how to use the "Peak Hold" function?
If so, hook it up to the center wire on the MAF, take the car on a drive at 4000 rpm and wait for the brick wall. Pull over and check the peak voltage during your sleigh ride.
I sincerely hope that some of my rambling helps in some way because I really want another chocolate trophy! LOL!
BTW, here is where I put my MAF...
