Recent content by kidtaurus

I have replaced the rear end links and strut mount and I still have a clunking noise when going over uneven payment. I am not sure what else would cause this.(bang)

Timken was another I was going to ask about. I guess I will go with Timken. Many thanks for your input.

I don't have a garage or an impact wrench and worried about any rusted bolts. I did some investigating and found a local mom and pop suspension shop that comes highly recommended that would do it for $75+parts. I don't think I can beat that. Which brand of bearings do you recommend. I have seen...

Athens, GA.

My driver's side wheel bearing is going bad. I was quoted $250 to fix it. Is this a decent price? Should I go OEM or aftermarket? Do I need to replace both sides like you do with CV joints?

I have these on some MSP wheels and they ride nicer than the Bridgestone Potenza Grid I had on before. The side walls are softer therefore better ride but lean a lot in turns. They are also better in the rain and much quieter.

+1 I swear by Optima red top had one sit for a year while I was rewiring my previous car. I gave the battery to a friend and it started his jeep right up.

The engine from the Mazdaspeed 3 and the Mazdaspeed 6 are the same engine and DO NOT fit a Pro5 w/o a lot of custom fab. work. It would be cheaper to sell the car and just buy the Speed 3 or Speed 6.

I just got my Optima exchanged for a new one and so far (knock on wood) my car has been starting fine. I will keep you all updated if anything changes. Many thanks for your recommendations on how to fix my car.

My terminals are clean. I am going to clean them anyways and spray them with some battery terminal protectant that I got for my wife's car which are corroded like mad and need to be cleaned.

I got the battery and alt checked at O'Reilly's and both checked out ok. Weird thing is I jumped it to drive it there. I should have tried starting the car w/o jumping it. So it looks like I am going to remove the starter and get it checked once the weather gets better. It started fine when I...

thats what I was thinking or alt?

I went to go to class this morning and my car did not want to start. I get 1 click(sounds like a click from a relay) from the passenger side and thats it. The battery has 12.5-12.7V and I tried bypassing the clutch safety switch with a jumper. Still no go. What else should I check? Many thanks...

What would be great is a group buy, that way the s/h would be worth the 18 and change.

Stock manifold with heat shield on it.