Recent content by arab pinnochio

what the hell are you talking about? you can't deep cycle a battery when the car is running. If you are only using one battery get a regular lead acid battery. it charges more quickly than a "yellowtop."

well... If you want to help your battery out, all you need to do is attach a large 0 guage ground wire from the battery to the chassis. you don't even need to take out the one that is already there. adding another will help return current drawn by the stereo. changing the other ground wires...

Is the yellow top the primary starting battery or do you just run the system through it?

I have a JL 250/1 and 300/2. My car's electrical system seems to take a crap when the stereo is used (variable 12-25 amp load usually), even though it has no trouble with a 40 amp continuous load from a/c and lights. Just wondering if anyone has been fine with this car's alternator...

well........ I ended up swerving into a high curb, really bending the a-frame and joints to the front passenger side wheel. I never looked under my car after the accident so I don't remember what it looked like. I didn't notice a red racing beat bar in the front when I looked under my car...

I might be mixing up parts here, but I was wondering if the front end had some type of sway bar like the red racing beat one in the back? I know there's a brace under the hood over the battery terminal, I was just wondering what the suspension should look like in the front. Just got my car...

whenever I had my damaged bumper replaced the paint they used seemed a lot less metallic and shiny than the rest of the car. is it not possible to match the exact black mica paint?

what the f..... dude, like he said you are simply causing the motor to try to pull the window down when it is being held in place. you're a fool. the lights might dim when you drive because fans may kick on and draw a lot of current to get started up.

why not learn something about your "lemon" ....... read the damn common problems threads fool. :-(

I have 2 amps that are rated for 550 watts rms combined. In reality I draw about 12 amps of current with my listening habits. My stock battery died so I replaced it with an 800amp cold crank autostart battery. This one seems to suck. If I play the music more loudly (not to the point that...

jesus, man....you've been saving at the pump i've been running 93 octane 2.30/gal...what all do you guys use?

.... blkzoomzoom, what would the limitations of the pcm be in a mazda? the a/c, the alt....? That's the only change I have made to the car. Other than the reflash nothing is different. At first the dealership suggested it was the aftermarket stereo causing probs but I havent used the stereo...

argh...... Guys, I know the voltages read normal......duh........my post is in regard to problems I am having that have not been solved. I'm not using a stock battery. I'm using a 640 marine cranking amps battery with a reserve capacity over 100, and yet I have starting problems. My question...

I don't know what's been causing my car's battery to perform so badly. The voltage reads 12.7 when I check it and the alt. reads 14.5 volts. I'm just fishing here....the problem started after I had the dealer reflash the pcm, so could there be something wrong with the power regulation?

thx all for replies... This is with an aftermarket battery. The stereo system consists of two JL AUDIO amps and the current draw is usually between 8-12 amps when turned up. The terminals are clean and the grounds from the amps and battery's negative are solid. Ideas?