Maintenance Required 2014 CX-5 AWD

[mmitsch]

We have a 2015 CX-5 AWD Touring with about 85,000 miles on it.

I want to keep it well maintained and running for many more years and was hoping for some advice on needed things.

We have Honda’s and they require transmission fluid changes every 30k, some need timing belt changes every 100k, etc. not sure if I should be doing the same for the CX-5?

We change oil & filter every 3~4,000 mikes, have changed plus once (and a coil pack) and have changed the coolant once as well.

Let me know your thoughts.

 

[GFrosty]

Assuming it's a U.S. model -- Owners Manuals @ MazdaUSA:

Owners – Manuals, Guides, Maintenance Schedules

View vehicle resources including maintenance schedules, owner's manuals, and navigation and Bluetooth information.

www.mazdausa.com

Refer to Chapter 6, particularly @ p 6-4 for the maintenance schedules recommended.


I've got a 2016.5 CX-5 AWD GT, myself.

Like you, I am looking to have this vehicle for years to come. Though it's now got 135Kmi on the odo, it's still running very well.

When I acquired it @ ~80Kmi, it was a one-owner car and I purchased it from the place he'd bought it from, the dealer he traded it back to (for a new model). He had kept in good shape.

Generally speaking, I go by the Owners Manual. But I tend to be a bit more-aggressive on keeping ahead of the maintenance curve.

Maintenance items I did within several months of purchase:

• Engine air filter
• Engine cabin air filter
• Engine oil & filter
• Transmission oil
• Transfer case oil
• Rear differential oil
• Coolant
• Battery -- was 4yrs old; replaced with new AGM
• Brakes
• Brake fluid -- at time of purchase, and 2yrs ago
• Spark plugs -- did when purchased; did again last Summer
• Coil packs -- replaced all, when had a P0300 issue last year

Additional maintenance I have done:

• Front lower control arms
• Front tie rod ends
• Accessory belt -- snapped, so replaced
• Door stop arm -- replaced, as the driver-side one had failed
• A/C refrigerant 'valves' -- replaced, with recharge
• HVAC blower motor -- replaced (easy swap)

Maintenance items coming up:

• Engine oil & filter -- @ 5Kmi intervals
• Engine air filter -- as needed
• Engine cabin air filter -- as needed
• Transmission oil -- will do again before winter
• Transfer case oil -- will do again before winter
• Rear differential oil -- will do again before winter
• Coolant & coolant cap -- will do again before winter
• Brakes -- down to 6mm, last check; likely needing to do within the next 12-16mos
• Brake fluid -- will do again at time of brake job
• Suspension, shock assys -- likely within the year
• Suspension, control links -- likely within the year
• Suspension, sway bar links -- likely within the year
• Suspension, sway bar bushings -- likely within the year
• Coolant hoses -- mulling, but likely next year

To some, this seems like a lot. To me, it's simply ensuring the car doesn't fail and striving to keep ahead of basic maintenance and wear items.

 

[mmitsch]

Assuming it's a U.S. model -- Owners Manuals @ MazdaUSA:

Owners – Manuals, Guides, Maintenance Schedules

View vehicle resources including maintenance schedules, owner's manuals, and navigation and Bluetooth information.

www.mazdausa.com

Refer to Chapter 6, particularly @ p 6-4 for the maintenance schedules recommended.


I've got a 2016.5 CX-5 AWD GT, myself.

Like you, I am looking to have this vehicle for years to come. Though it's now got 135Kmi on the odo, it's still running very well.

When I acquired it @ ~80Kmi, it was a one-owner car and I purchased it from the place he'd bought it from, the dealer he traded it back to (for a new model). He had kept in good shape.

Generally speaking, I go by the Owners Manual. But I tend to be a bit more-aggressive on keeping ahead of the maintenance curve.

Maintenance items I did within several months of purchase:

• Engine air filter
• Engine cabin air filter
• Transmission oil
• Transfer case oil
• Rear differential oil
• Coolant
• Battery -- was 4yrs old; replaced with new AGM
• Brakes
• Brake fluid -- at time of purchase, and 2yrs ago
• Spark plugs -- did when purchased; did again last Summer
• Coil packs -- replaced all, when had a P0300 issue last year

Additional maintenance I have done:

• Front lower control arms
• Front tie rod ends
• Accessory belt -- snapped, so replaced
• Door stop arm -- replaced, as the driver-side one had failed
• A/C refrigerant 'valves' -- replaced, with recharge
• HVAC blower motor -- replaced (easy swap)

Maintenance items coming up:

• Engine oil & filter -- @ 5Kmi intervals
• Engine air filter -- as needed
• Engine cabin air filter -- as needed
• Transmission oil -- will do again before winter
• Transfer case oil -- will do again before winter
• Rear differential oil -- will do again before winter
• Coolant & coolant cap -- will do again before winter
• Brakes -- down to 6mm, last check; likely needing to do within the next 12-16mos
• Brake fluid -- will do again at time of brake job
• Suspension, shock assys -- likely within the year
• Suspension, control links -- likely within the year
• Suspension, sway bar links -- likely within the year
• Suspension, sway bar bushings -- likely within the year
• Coolant hoses -- mulling, but likely next year

To some, this seems like a lot. To me, it's simply ensuring the car doesn't fail and striving to keep ahead of basic maintenance and wear items.

Thank you!

What a GREAT list! Really appreciate this.

Do you think I should replace the PCV Valve as well?

And as a side question, I need to get new tires. It has General RT43 now but they’re getting old.

You have any tire wisdom?

 

[paris1]

I had RT43s on my old 2013 and thought they were a drastic improvement over the OE tires.I would see what the newest version of that tire is or the Continental equivalent (Conti owns General and they share tire technology). I have Contis on my 2018 Mazda 3 and they are terrific.

 

[GFrosty]

Do you think I should replace the PCV Valve as well?

Unless you're getting clear issues with low RPMs on idle, or the car's throwing a PCM-related error code, it's probably fine.

They can be cleaned easily enough. Underneath the intake manifold assembly, which requires removal. Next time I clean the throttle body assembly, I might check the PCV as well, as I didn't check it last time I did the TB. It's rare I get a low-idle condition. So, probably not absolutely necessary (yet).

Last year, I had low-idle, stumbling, and the car threw P0300 error codes (random misfire). Troubleshooting revealed one of the ignition coils was unreliable. Spark plugs still had nearly half their life left, but decided to swap in new plugs and coils. That, along with several tanks of injector cleaner and a couple treatments of GDI Intake Valve Cleaner, the problem was resolved.

Forum member @felixd created a how-to video on how to check and swap the PCV unit on the CX-5.

F

2013~2016 Thread 'CX-5 PCV Valve Maintenance Check or Replace'

Apr 2, 2025

PCV Valve Maintenance Check / Replace? Mazda CX-5 2.0L & 2.5L

• felixd
• Replies: 2
• Forum: CX-5 Powertrain & SkyActiv

Direct link to the video tutorial:

 

[GFrosty]

And as a side question, I need to get new tires. It has General RT43 now but they’re getting old.

You have any tire wisdom?

Depends where you live and what sort of conditions you need the tire to handle.

Assuming you need to cover similar conditions the AltiMax RT43 does well ...

Check out Pirelli Scorpion AW Plus 3, General AltiMax RT45, and General AltiMax 365AW (if you need more 'oomph' for colder or light-wintry conditions).


Myself ...

I've gone the route of all-weather, year-'round tires instead of having a second set of wheels/tires dedicated to winter, as I live in a place where 3-4mos out of the year can see snow and some ice.

Have used the Nokian WR G4 -- A step down from full winter tires like the Hakkapeliitta line, but these are a good 90% as grippy in snowy, slippery, even icy conditions. I don't need studded tires, and the compound on these is soft enough for winter use but tough enough for year-'round use. A little soft with all the tread sipes, so spirited handling in hot/dry can be a bit sketchy as compared to a high-quality A/S tire. But otherwise these are excellent. (On another vehicle, 20yrs ago, I had a set of Nokian Hakkapeliitta RSi. Exceptional in the rain. A little soft and inappropriate for hot/dry, but otherwise great for those needing a top-notch winter tire.)

And currently have the Nokian AW02 -- Similar to the WR G4, though perhaps a half-step down in sleet/ice conditions (given fewer sipes). Same great all-weather compound. But it's a tougher tread design crafted to handle better in hot/dry conditions. Yet it's stellar in the rain, and very good in the snow ... at least until the snow gets mixed with icy crud or sleet, in which case the WR G4 are better. Excellent tire, overall. A good choice for someone who wants an A/S but also needs to accommodate a number of days annually with frosty, snowy roads.

When I originally acquired the car at ~80Kmi, it had a 1yr old set of Continental TrueContact Tour A/S EcoPlus. Wasn't impressed. Many members with this sort of tire end up switching to the Pirelli Scorpion AW Plus 3. Might have the sort of performance, handling and grip you are looking for. By all accounts, very good tires.

With nearly 50yrs of driving in all sorts of weather on a number of different vehicles, I am seriously impressed with these Nokian AW02. Easily handles and rides as well as any decent- to top-end A/S tire I have ever used. Excellent overall, excellent rain grip, strong handling. With the added bonus of being able to handle light snow (up to ~5") and modest frost, slush, sleet, avoiding the second set of wheels/tires for the winter months.