What have you done to your CX-5 today?

[tibimakai]

I'm doing these over two-three days, since I'm staying home.
Replacing all the discs and pads, and I'm also painting the brake calipers/brackets. Paint is not drying fast enough, it is still tacky by the next day.
Replacing the wheel nuts, with new red aluminum ones, I'm also replacing the valve stem caps as well.
While at it, I have discovered, that my outer tie rod and lower ball joint, has a nice opening in their boots. At 63k in Los Angeles. Though I'm not seeing any grease anywhere. I'm seeing this correctly?

 

[Chris_Top_Her]

I'm doing these over two-three days, since I'm staying home.
Replacing all the discs and pads, and I'm also painting the brake calipers/brackets. Paint is not drying fast enough, it is still tacky by the next day.
Replacing the wheel nuts, with new red aluminum ones, I'm also replacing the valve stem caps as well.
While at it, I have discovered, that my outer tie rod and lower ball joint, has a nice opening in their boots. At 63k in Los Angeles. Though I'm not seeing any grease anywhere. I'm seeing this correctly?

Probably al the grease has squeezed out . Likely because of those bouncy ass corksports and the increase rod angle. I got auto exe outer tie rods to level it out.

 

[Chris_Top_Her]

Replaced both rear sway bar end links. These were longer pieces (from an '03 Protege5) I put in to take care of the bigger rear sway moving around when I jacked it up. The old ones were corroded and the nuts kept loosening up. I got the right one off without much trouble (it was very loose), the left one put up a fight but I beat it into submission. I had some Mazda flanged nuts lying around that I used in place of the Nyloc nuts included with the new end links, hopefully they won't loose like the Nylocs.

Ultra racing sway bar?

 

[sm1ke]

Replacing the wheel nuts, with new red aluminum ones, I'm also replacing the valve stem caps as well.

I had blue aluminum nuts on one of my old cars. Just some advice - hand tighten with a soft socket to prevent scratching/marring the surfaces. Don't overtorque them either as they are much more likely to strip than regular nuts.

 

[tibimakai]

I was wondering about the torquing. These are aluminum nuts, they should be tightened to 90-100 as steel ones? The old ones were popping like crazy, when I was removing them. Wheel and nut are the same material, which I know is not a good thing.
I guess, soon I will need to replace all four ball joints. I don't feel anything wrong right now.

 

[chiefmg]

Ultra racing sway bar?

No. Can't remember for sure without looking it up but think it's a Corksport (it's been four years since install).

The other day I noticed some discoloration at the bottom of the rear license plate. Pulled that off today, good thing as the screws were very tight due to corrosion (despite my using anti-seize on them). Cleaned up the discoloration and put some touch-up paint on the spot. Also cleaned up the bottom of the plate and put some black silicone along the edge to give some protection.

 

[sm1ke]

I was wondering about the torquing. These are aluminum nuts, they should be tightened to 90-100 as steel ones?

I'm actually not sure, lol. I've always just torqued my lug nuts by hand with the socket wrench, then retorqued by hand a few days later.

 

[Unobtanium]

I ordered the coRksport LED package for the interior. Mainly for the sake of the back hatch area, which Mazda should be ashamed of.

 

[40752]

Stuck at home so might wash the pollen off.

 

[ColoradoDriver]

Nothing. Been working from home since 3/11 and have only gone to the store and one gaming night on 3/13 before stay-at-home orders started happening since that time.

To be honest, kinda would like to just go on a day trip now that nobody is driving. Not to go inside anywhere and interact with anyone, just to drive up around normally crowded areas and back home, but that's a no go here under current restrictions.

I ordered the coRksport LED package for the interior. Mainly for the sake of the back hatch area, which Mazda should be ashamed of.

You know I was just thinking the other night when I was pulling groceries out of the back how much the light back there didn't do a damn thing.

 

[RedBaron]

You know I was just thinking the other night when I was pulling groceries out of the back how much the light back there didn't do a damn thing.

I just replaced the bulb with an eBay cool white LED festoon bulb. Much brighter and it works fine now. I was going to add a second light in the roof (did that with my 2014) but there's no need now.

 

[Mazdiod2]

I have a bright bulb in the hatch door but the light gets blocked because of the location.

Redbaron how did you add a 2nd light overhead? I might do that.

I just replaced the bulb with an eBay cool white LED festoon bulb. Much brighter and it works fine now. I was going to add a second light in the roof (did that with my 2014) but there's no need now.

 

[Mazdiod2]

After installing some 3.5 midrange speakers and realizing how much of an improvement they made I decided to add some tweeters.
I saw these at Wal-Mart and for about $8 they are ok. The sensitivity is pretty high at 97db but they have
a 12db/octave crossover so they add a nice sizzle but aren't overly bright.
They had a pigtail already attached so I just soldered that to the CPU plugs I used for the interface.

 

[Avoidin Deer]

I have a bright bulb in the hatch door but the light gets blocked because of the location.

Redbaron how did you add a 2nd light overhead? I might do that.

Just to throw this out for you, others have added LED strips (with On/Off switches) back there plugged into the Always Hot 12v outlet.

I don't know if your year has such an outlet, but this would be a much easier install.

I've not done any of this (except for swapping out the hatch door light) because I have motion-sensor floodlights on my garage and I back the car up to them when I pull in...I got all the light I need. Absent that, I'd be looking to augment the lighting as you are.

 

[Mazdiod2]

After installing some 3.5 midrange speakers and realizing how much of an improvement they made I decided to add some tweeters.
I saw these at Wal-Mart amd for about $8 they are ok. The sensitivity is pretty high at 97db but they have View attachment 223744a 12db/octave crossover so they add a nice sizzle but aren't overly bright.
They had a pigtail already attached so I just soldered that to the CPU plugs I used for the interface.

 

[Mazdiod2]

Yeah the outlet might be ok but I like something without wires. I'd possibly use a battery powered light but ideally I would like another set of those map lights like the OEMs. It's always easy to find the switch-which I like. I could have a RED for night, too.

If I could wire it direct to 12vdc it wouldn't have that annoying time out.

Just to throw this out for you, others have added LED strips (with On/Off switches) back there plugged into the Always Hot 12v outlet.

 

[Avoidin Deer]

I agree, concealed wiring always looks less "cobbled."

And one wonders the value of that timeout in the world of LEDs.

 

[Mazdiod2]

Mostly for camping I guess. I need the outlet for the cooler or 120vac inverter and having a wire there might get in the road so...

I camped out in it last summer and the interior lights won't turn on unless you open a door. If you leave a door open then they time out and won't turn on again until you close ALL the doors. Then after 20min they turn off again and you have to open a door to turn them back on.

 

[RedBaron]

I have a bright bulb in the hatch door but the light gets blocked because of the location.

Redbaron how did you add a 2nd light overhead? I might do that.

Here: https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/index.php?threads/spot-the-lighting-mod.123831398/

 

[Chris_Top_Her]

What are you guys buying with your stimulus check? Probably going to finish out my ultra racing chassis bars (2 mid braces)