What have you done to your MS3 today?

Oh hiiiii

Wife's MS3 hit 110k

Rx still has apex seals. Getting shipped out in the fall for some major work :D
 
I miss my RX8. I've been looking for one that isn't trashed for cheap. See a lot of failed engines for super cheap and I've contemplated getting one of those, but I'd at least like to enjoy it for a bit before having to have a rebuild. And most are automatics of course.

Have done nothing but cleaned the car numerous times and align it. Both fronts were toed in a perfectly even amount. Weird. Knew the drivers was toed in by the tire wear and pull on the highway. Other than that, looking for a BP for my NA. Trying to spend less than $700, but without driving or paying shipping that's about the cheapest I've found in my area. The week before I got the car, there was one for $500 with relatively low miles. So kinda focusing on the Miata right now.

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Developed a noise from the left rear of the car...
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These are for a 32MM bar, OEM will not work with the bushings and bar I have installed.
 
Cleaned the EGR system, no CEL for a week or so. Hooray!

Going to replace sway bar bushings soon.
 
Okay well that makes sense then ...they definitely looked like they are not as heavy duty as the OEM ones...

Yeah, the brackets supplied with the Moog K7326 are clearly junk.
 
I took it on it's final drive...My MS3 motor has finally bit the dust.

ROD knock... 283,010 miles.

Such a shame, I was really hoping to get it and the original clutch over 300k. The rest of the car is still in excellent condition.
 
I took it on it's final drive...My MS3 motor has finally bit the dust.

ROD knock... 283,010 miles.

Such a shame, I was really hoping to get it and the original clutch over 300k. The rest of the car is still in excellent condition.

That was you selling the MS3. It kept popping up as I searched for a car to replace my P5.
 
Finally did a compression test on the MS3- only because I was doing one on the Miata and thought I should go ahead and get it over with so I actually know rather than assume. The numbers weren't terribly awful, better than I was expecting, honestly.

Cylinder 1- 155/165
Cylinder 2- 150/175
Cylinder 3- 150/162
Cylinder 4- 150/178

I expected to see at least one, if not two, below minimum spec. This puts me at about ~19% down on each cylinder from healthy spec.

I'm almost done with the Miata and if I can get it running and driving dependably, I'll use it as a daily so that a rebuild can be done on the MS3.
 
Finally did a compression test on the MS3- only because I was doing one on the Miata and thought I should go ahead and get it over with so I actually know rather than assume. The numbers weren't terribly awful, better than I was expecting, honestly.

Cylinder 1- 155/165
Cylinder 2- 150/175
Cylinder 3- 150/162
Cylinder 4- 150/178

I expected to see at least one, if not two, below minimum spec. This puts me at about ~19% down on each cylinder from healthy spec.

I'm almost done with the Miata and if I can get it running and driving dependably, I'll use it as a daily so that a rebuild can be done on the MS3.

If it is not too late, try a leak-down test. Compression tests are subject to all sorts of variation: was the throttle open? Is the starter good? What was the battery SOC? Were the other spark plugs out? Is the o-ring on the gage good? And at the end of the day you still have no idea where the engine is leaking from. I hate it.

A leak-down test is subject to fewer variables and will identify where any leakage is coming from.
 
If it is not too late, try a leak-down test. Compression tests are subject to all sorts of variation: was the throttle open? Is the starter good? What was the battery SOC? Were the other spark plugs out? Is the o-ring on the gage good? And at the end of the day you still have no idea where the engine is leaking from. I hate it.

A leak-down test is subject to fewer variables and will identify where any leakage is coming from.

Had I had a leak-down tester at the time, I'd have done one.

Compression tests require that the throttle plate be open- it's standard procedure. On the MS3, to disable the fuel supply when cranking, the throttle is fully depressed.
Starter good? Kids are good- or bad- parts fail or wear. I assume you mean is it strong enough to turn the engine over at ~250RPM. Presumably, though I didn't monitor engine speed while starting.
Battery- of course one would need to have a sufficient charge on the battery to provide ample power supply to the starter for 250RPM. However, did I perform a starting and charging test? No.
Again, standardized test procedures for a compression test require removal of all the spark plugs.
Was the o-ring intact and free of damage per a visual inspection? Yes.

I agree to gain a better idea of engine health a leak-down test would be required and, when I get the time to do one, I will, but for now, this is some important information that I like to have.
 
Dead thread revival

Currently cursing up a storm changing the driver axle on the wife’s MS3
Rx went to IR Performance for a freshening up and a catless downpipe install. Now need to source a power fc and tune jt. Should be good for 300 or so at the rear. Will satiate me for now.....
 
Got it detailed in preparation for selling. Bought a GX470 for off-roading and towing/hauling/family stuff as a replacement. If anyone is looking for a decent 2009 GT in the NH area, drop me PM.
 
SOLD IT!! That's right, after 10 years and 8 months of solid fun, it was just time to let it go. I had a great time driving it and owning it and took very good care of it. The new owner is extremely happy with their new Speed3. I'm even more happy with my new 17.5 Mazda6 GT Premium in Crystal Blue Mica, and the price I picked up for. Miss the Speed, love all the new creature comforts on the 6 that I didn't have on the Speed.
 
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