DRL/HID kit not working

[mrCide]

I got my car a couple months ago and installed HID bulb/ballast powered by the car (from DDM). I made the mistake of not using a harness it looks like, since today they stopped working. HI beam works, as well as everything else it seems. Checked the fuses in the box they all look fine.

I'm guessing maybe a relay issue? I got a harness and unless I wired it incorrectly it's still not working, perhaps due to whatever the failure is.

I'm guessing a relay, but I don't know where to start. Is this an easy fix or do I have to take it somewhere?

TIA

 

[Buzzer777]

Hopefully you still have the manual/their contact info.

I got my car a couple months ago and installed HID bulb/ballast powered by the car (from DDM). I made the mistake of not using a harness it looks like, since today they stopped working. HI beam works, as well as everything else it seems. Checked the fuses in the box they all look fine.

I'm guessing maybe a relay issue? I got a harness and unless I wired it incorrectly it's still not working, perhaps due to whatever the failure is.

I'm guessing a relay, but I don't know where to start. Is this an easy fix or do I have to take it somewhere?

TIA

It could be almost anything, but as a "BASIC STARTING POINT" with automobile fuses, is "NOT TO CHECK THEM BY SIGHT ONLY!" IT IS QUITE POSSIBLE THAT THEY LOOK NORMAL...but indeed have blown.

If you do not have one, you can pick up a cheapo VOM (Volt-Ohm-Meter) for about $10 (perhaps Harbor Freight or the like). I don't think they could even help you before you check the fuses PROPERLY! If you are going to do ANYTHING electrical, you will need a VOM. You will be doing a simple continuity check (OHM function on the meter).

An ECU (CAR'S COMPUTER)can cost $1000+ not to mention any other damage to the electrical system, as I would bet your dealer will try to kill off your warranty!

I suggest you STOP right now, and have it checked out professionally. If it were mine and it was not too difficult, I would take the HID setup out of service, just to make sure the oem lights still work. A VOM is cheap and good to have anyway!

 

[MikeM.]

I got my car a couple months ago and installed HID bulb/ballast powered by the car (from DDM). I made the mistake of not using a harness it looks like, since today they stopped working. HI beam works, as well as everything else it seems. Checked the fuses in the box they all look fine.

Doesn't DDM provide after sales support/warranty for the products they offer?

 

[mrCide]

Not sure that this is an ECU or HID/ballast issue - i think due to the way DRM/power works I should have used a relay/harness. It doesn't appear that LO sockets are receiving power so I was assuming the relay failed or is having an issue. plan is to pop stock bulb in and start from there.

 

[Buzzer777]

Was not saying it was an ECU problem...

Not sure that this is an ECU or HID/ballast issue - i think due to the way DRM/power works I should have used a relay/harness. It doesn't appear that LO sockets are receiving power so I was assuming the relay failed or is having an issue. plan is to pop stock bulb in and start from there.

I was not saying that it was an ECU problem, only that you needed to be careful when messing with after market stuff, so as avoid a problem!! LOL. Most accessories state that you should disconnect the battery prior to an installation to avoid a possible short. The way I read your original post, it did not appear that you had checked it out with a meter...obviously I was incorrect!!

During the "good ole days" <cough> We used to install almost anything without worrying about ECUs and the like.
Of course, there were no HIDs ...just Sealed Beams...

Mean time, if they supplied a harness, then you should have used it.(depending on your application). I believe that those harnesses are used so as not to overload the stock harness? Hope you get it sorted out...Good luck with it.

 

[mrCide]

I was not saying that it was an ECU problem, only that you needed to be careful when messing with after market stuff, so as avoid a problem!! LOL. Most accessories state that you should disconnect the battery prior to an installation to avoid a possible short. The way I read your original post, it did not appear that you had checked it out with a meter...obviously I was incorrect!!

During the "good ole days" <cough> We used to install almost anything without worrying about ECUs and the like.
Of course, there were no HIDs ...just Sealed Beams...

Mean time, if they supplied a harness, then you should have used it.(depending on your application). I believe that those harnesses are used so as not to overload the stock harness? Hope you get it sorted out...Good luck with it.

Ah I gotchya. the harness, yeah i suppose i should have, except i was mixing and matching and thought it wouldn't be necessary with the ballasts I got.

So, I'm not hearing a click when I turn the lights on from the fuse box, but I'm having a hard time distinguishing the relays and I'm either going crazy or I don't have a relay where I'm supposed to have one.


Don't suppose anyone with a 2016 CX-5 can take a picture of their engine fuse box up close? If you have a sport/basic trim that's even better!

EDIT - I got a picture and it looks like when I took it out to reseat it i put it back in the wrong location. putting it back in with the harness installed everything seems to be back to normal. Also I think DRL was fine it only activates once your vehicle is moving? I'll have to confirm that later.

Weird.. Thanks for the replies.

 

[bilyclub]

You have to be careful around that fuse box. I pulled the #54 to put in the led interior lights. Put everything in, then the electrical system was dead. Came back on after a minute. Next time I took the car out, the engine light came on. Went to the fuse box and gently made sure everything was in the socket right. Engine light disappeared after that.