Bad wastegate = new turbo??

[mustangsvo85]

Got some wrench time this weekend. I blew into the wastegate actuator line and it didn't hold any pressure. I'm ordering a new wastegate actuator tonight. Can this be swapped without removing the turbo??

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

It can it's a pain but you can do it in an hour. You need the front on blocks, remove the 10mm nut on the top of the wg with a wrench and the bottom with a really long extension and universal joint. Note I think you can get away without the universal joint if you have long enough extension to come through the dp and the block under the car.

 

[Valk]

You have to have a super delicate hand with the eclip... super delicate.
I think I needed to space the atp one out a little bit but install was pretty simple.

 

[hornsfan10609]

Last night was my first attempt to replace the WGA without pulling the turbo and my advice is just to pull the turbo. I had to remove everything except the turbo oil feed and water lines and it was still a b**** to get to the wastegate. Should have just removed those last couple lines and pulled the turbo. Takes about 30mins to pull the turbo and 5 mins to swap the WGA once it's off then another 45 or so to reinstall or it took me a couple hours to do it without completely removing the assembly last night and it was far from my first time removing a turbo on an MSP.

 

[mustangsvo85]

I don't exactly have small hands, so work space demands are higher for me than most. To yank the turbo out, should I just remove the exhaust manifold with it? Does it drop out the bottom better than the top, or vice versa?

I was thinking of getting the turbosmart wastegate. Any reason why that's a good/bad choice? Part number TS-0610-2072 is what I'd get.

 

[hornsfan10609]

I think the turbosmart is probably fine but adjusting the rod is difficult with the turbo installed. Easiest way is to remove the fans, O2, heatshield, hot pipe, intake, oil feed, both water lines, bracket, J pipe and move the clamp up for the oil drain, then unbolt the mani from the head and pull the entire assembly from the top.

 

[mustangsvo85]

will there be issues if I don't replace the exhaust mani gasket and just reuse the one that's there? I have a ton of other parts to replace while I'm in there so more room to work isn't going to hurt. I have a valve cover gasket to replace, oil pan gasket, all four engine mounts, intercooler hoses, and anything else I find that's busted along the way. I have that gnarly rear clunk sound and I can see the front lower control arm vertical bushings are torn, so I'll be wrenching for a while. For a car with under 60k miles, it's been really beat up. Oh and the clutch slips, felt it fail to engage a couple times, which isn't the easiest to replace.

 

[ayang89]

Whats a tool i can use to get the bottom screws off of the exhaust manifold? Started taking my manifold off and come to find out, none of my tools could get the bottom row of screws off.

 

[hornsfan10609]

12" extension and 3/8 drive ratchet.

will there be issues if I don't replace the exhaust mani gasket and just reuse the one that's there? I have a ton of other parts to replace while I'm in there so more room to work isn't going to hurt. I have a valve cover gasket to replace, oil pan gasket, all four engine mounts, intercooler hoses, and anything else I find that's busted along the way. I have that gnarly rear clunk sound and I can see the front lower control arm vertical bushings are torn, so I'll be wrenching for a while. For a car with under 60k miles, it's been really beat up. Oh and the clutch slips, felt it fail to engage a couple times, which isn't the easiest to replace.

It's not recommended but you can reuse the gasket unless it's trashed. There is no 'gasket' for the oil pan just RTV between the block and upper oil pan (MBSP/windage tray), and between the upper and lower oil pans. Rear clunk is from the rear swaybar bushings, should replace the front and rears and grease them or use teflon tape. Torn bushings are normal, rubber breaks down over time.

 

[mustangsvo85]

thanks!! I'll be ordering everything today to get it road worthy by next week.

 

[mustangsvo85]

Ok well I've got the wastegate actuator off, what a pain in the ass this is! I noticed I have a new puddle of oil under the front side of the engine and I can see the front main seal has popped out a little bit and there looks to be oil coming out between the Trans and Block (rear main perhaps). Dammit. I have a valve cover gasket leak too. What would cause all these damn seals to go at once? I think the car has just been sitting too long. Car only has 52k miles.

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

Indeed sounds like it was sitting two long. Had the same issues with a speed with 32000 miles.

 

[mustangsvo85]

darn it. I can do all of this myself, but I just don't have the free time. If anyone knows any trustworthy mechanics in the Inland Empire area of Southern California, please get me their contact info!

 

[mustangsvo85]

Turbosmart wastegate is installed. It still stumbles, but it's a lot less harsh. And it's not as frequent. Doesn't pull as hard on full throttle now either, probably makes sense since the other wastgate actuator was toast. I need a boost gauge now. It's drivable now. Anyone else have any other ideas as to why it stumbles / hesitates ??

 

[mustangsvo85]

Ok so I tried to drive it this morning when it was cooler out, and it stumbles / hesitates / bucks like crazy (just like before) and is not drive-able. I'm out of ideas here. Is there anyway to test the BPV? I've had a lot of the easily accessible vacuum lines replaced. The battery doesn't seem to be very strong either, but the car starts and runs.

 

[hornsfan10609]

The car may need coils/wires/plugs (gapped to .028-.030") if they haven't been replaced and probably a maf cleaning for good measure.

 

[mustangsvo85]

Already done those. I'm ordering a boost gauge (with Vac too), a/f gauge, and mounting pod. Hopefully that'll tell me what my boost, vacuum, and AF ratio is. Oh and I'm still not throwing a CEL. I tried to get the rear engine mount off yesterday too but the big through bolt wouldn't budge. I even got a 1/2" drive impact drill on it, still no budge. I may just slap a for sale sign on this thing.

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

You will see when you install the a/f gauge. A/f will go super rich at wot and car will stubble. Mine does the same. Solution is a piggyback ECU.

 

[mustangsvo85]

it's not a WOT issue. That's the only time it's drivable. This is a serious bucking / spuddering / hesitation at low throttle while under load. Normal driving conditions it's like riding a bucking horse. If I had a drink in the cup holder, it would splash out everywhere and I'm just barely on the throttle whilethe rpms climb from 2000 through 3200. Which is exasperated by torn front and rear engine mounts.

 

[hornsfan10609]

Reset the computer, not many things could cause that. Sounds like a bad coil pack or failing MAF to me.