New P. E. P/Pope Downpipe and turbo manifolds.

[callphy]

what kind of tool do u guys use to remove/install the manifold btw ?

and what pattern does it require to install.

do u use some kind of mini torque wrench/ratchet? or just hand tight +1/4 turn or so?

will this mini ratchet do the job?
http://www.amazon.ca/MAXCRAFT-60199-4-Inch-Dual-Drive-Ratchet/dp/B003BXKZZ8/ref=pd_sim_hi_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=06WKCPTVHCZCGQVP3M5F

and maybe this one will work well with pope's hardware?
http://www.amazon.ca/Neiko-03044A-Ratcheting-Screwdriver-Close-Quarters/dp/B000XYOUS6/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_z

 

[Johnoolo]

alright i believe im going to get one of the pope downpipes, that comes with the thermostat spacer right ill probably order it tomorrow. Im sure gains will be noticed with my ported intake your pope down pipe and 3 inch exhaust(to be decided muffler)and fmic

 

[Valk]

You will also want to get an ssafc.

 

[Johnoolo]

You will also want to get an ssafc.

ordered the down pipe cant wait to get it

 

[Blake D]

motor mounts should be on your list. at minimum front and rear with side inserts.

 

[Valk]

if its your ride to work, front and sides, rear insert...

 

[Johnoolo]

if its your ride to work, front and sides, rear insert...

most definitely on the motor mounts what do you recommend I thought about ordering some from amazon or ebay I read about the rubber silicone inserts? of some sort

 

[Valk]

Awr front driver passenger In 70 dm great for street. The rear is great too for driving pleasure but rattles the windscreen like an sob idling in traffic. Makes car quite loud.
If driving pleasure most important get it but if you want to firm up everything but want a civil cabin and can handle a little bit of hop, try to find a softer rear mount.
I just put a factory rear in my p5 but filled it with silicon. Might be a nice compromise.

 

[Johnoolo]

Awr front driver passenger In 70 dm great for street. The rear is great too for driving pleasure but rattles the windscreen like an sob idling in traffic. Makes car quite loud.
If driving pleasure most important get it but if you want to firm up everything but want a civil cabin and can handle a little bit of hop, try to find a softer rear mount.
I just put a factory rear in my p5 but filled it with silicon. Might be a nice compromise.

I may try the silicone idea my friends msp is like that but rear mount is torn up the motor moves a ton. More than it should and when I used to hit fuel cut it felt like the engine fell out it jerked so hard. It appeared that the rear mount was destroyed it needs to be replaced ill get an insert and press it in with a table clamp. I think my front are ok for now but I will definitely get to them soon

 

[Johnoolo]

Ok broken stud problem and I can't get the downpipe to separate from the turbo I also can't get the oil fee line off I've tried my 11 mm flare nut wrench but it won't fit or I can't get it at the right angle so I can't take all that out any ideas which studs do I need to get to replace them

 

[Valk]

finally drove my p5 after a month of sitting being built. the silicon filled motor mounts feel great. very nice shifter feeling, even with stock shifter/bushings. doesnt rattle my brains out at stop lights either. the awrs are a great long term option but so far im quite happy with my new oem, filled with high temp silicon. as for studs, i think they m8 1.25. any auto parts store likely has a fastener bin you can root through with various bolts/studs/nuts ect. not sure on the size you need, just try to get one out and take it with you.
id go stainless or brass, somthing that wont rust shut.

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

I had to take the radiator out to get to the oil feed line. Remover radiator and turbo piping. Disconnect oil drain line from pan. Remover power steering and move to the side. Disconnect the s pipe from j pipe. Remove exhaust manifold with water lines still attached to the turbo. Oil feed line was a 12mm I believe.

 

[hornsfan10609]

It's 11mm, you can remove it without pulling the rad. Hard to do without stripping the nut so be careful

 

[thepope540]

It's 11mm, you can remove it without pulling the rad. Hard to do without stripping the nut so be careful

Use a line wrench and you'll significantly reduce the chances of stripping the nut.

 

[Johnoolo]

i got it I just had to work with it some and get it oi turn a little so I could get a bite on it I snapped 2 studs on the turbo I was as careful as I could be but no amount of pb blaster and heat was working so im drilling them out and re tapping them hope I do it right...

 

[bwalt]

Pope stuff came in. The manifold is a work of art. I'm most excited for the port matched runners to compliment my p&p head and over size valves.

 

[thepope540]

Pope stuff came in. The manifold is a work of art. I'm most excited for the port matched runners to compliment my p&p head and over size valves.

(2thumbs) I was inspired by your egt fitting and I built myself a manifold with a simple npt bung and have done another customer pipe the same way as well. Thanks again and enjoy!

 

[bwalt]

(2thumbs) I was inspired by your egt fitting and I built myself a manifold with a simple npt bung and have done another customer pipe the same way as well. Thanks again and enjoy!

Nice! I'm starting to want an ewg flange where the 02 bung is... It looks like one there could work if the hole was enlarged.

 

[thepope540]

Nice! I'm starting to want an ewg flange where the 02 bung is... It looks like one there could work if the hole was enlarged.

It could certainly be done. A plasma cutter and bit of patience and you'd be all set.

 

[bwalt]

It could certainly be done. A plasma cutter and bit of patience and you'd be all set.

I may do this... getting boost creep above 5000rpm. I'll port the internal wastgate and see if that helps before spending more money though.