Door Lock Button - Is there an option to Add a Backlight?

[brchan]

You could just add a loopback wire on the harness side between the pink and yellow pin.

What is the voltage between your green and yellow pin ?

Yes, you can add a wire on the harness side. If I had the right contacts on hand, that might be a good option. But I've always found it a pain to source the right contacts for automotive connectors.

The yellow is IGN so it is 12-15V depending if the engine is on.

 

[brchan]

I have noticed the same thing as RedBaron about Digikey and Mouser. Digikrey has something like, $2.75 shipping with first class mail USPS.
Why not just replace all LEDs, with the same type and then there is no mismatch problems.

If by all LEDs, you mean just the power window LED then yes that would eliminate the difference at the driver side controls. It is far enough that no one will really notice the difference from the center console LEDs. In fact, the more I think about it the less I'm concerned about red vs amber. A little contrast for the door lock buttons isn't a bad thing especially if I mod the pass. side button with the same red.

As for Digikey, it's been a while since I ordered from Digikey and I remember they didn't used to have a USPS option. Will have to check again.

 

[Z0RrO]

The yellow is IGN so it is 12-15V depending if the engine is on.

Do you have a diagram that shows which pin is what for the harness ?

 

[brchan]

Do you have a diagram that shows which pin is what for the harness ?

You can find the wiring diagram for power windows and mirrors here:

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123825111-Full-Service-Manuals-PDF

 

[RedBaron]

Do you have a diagram that shows which pin is what for the harness ?

Here, I concatenated them for you as a big GIF.

 

[tibimakai]

Yes, I was thinking about the door switches only.

 

[Z0RrO]

Thanks. I have just look at the service manual and the pins you have selected look good to me.

I was wondering if we could leverage the led driver (TD62003) that is on board

 

[brchan]

FYI, in the process of fiddling with the power window controller, it is possible that the controller will enter a reset mode. In this mode, the auto-up and auto-down feature would be disabled while manual up/down is still possible. In the service manual, it states:

If the following operations have been performed, initial setting is reset, and auto up/down operation is disabled. Therefore, performing the initial setting is necessary.

- Negative battery cable disconnected

- Power window main switch connector disconnected

- Power window system power supply fuse removed

According to the service manual, this is remedied by:

1. Switch the ignition ON (engine off or on).

2. Press the driver side power window main switch and fully open the driver side front door glass.

3. Pull up the driver side power window main switch to the manual-up position to fully close the driver side front door glass, and keep holding the switch up at the position for approx. 2 s.

I did come across this issue but managed to fiddle my way back to normal before reading the above in the service manual. Good luck gents.

 

[brchan]

OK, thanks! And appreciate the mcd estimates, though I often find that perceived brightness is very much non-linear. Looking at the photo, I would guess your door lock LED is actually running 4 to 6 (or even 8) times the mcd's of the window one. But really good to know the values you used to base the estimates off. Thanks again.

As for Mouser vs. Digikey, I shop at both. I usually find Digikey is best for small orders, since their entry shipping price (via mail) is ~$3 (vs. $5-$6 for Mouser) and prices are often lower (example, just bought some Phillips 3535 white LEDs: Digikey=46c, Mouser=57c). However, Mouser does have some things that Digikey doesn't (and probably vice versa), and some items are cheaper at Mouser too, though the shipping often eclipses that. Can't speak for international shipping though

Oh, and nice soldering!

I had another look at the space under the button and might backtrack on my first statement. It is physically possible to fit a T1 LED under the button. You would still have to cut up the carbon contact rubber.

 

[RedBaron]

I had another look at the space under the button and might backtrack on my first statement. It is physically possible to fit a T1 LED under the button. You would still have to cut up the carbon contact rubber.

Yeah - I went out and pulled mine to look. I think I can loop the anode wire under and back over the rubber (in a horizontal 'U') and just run the cathode wire over the top of the rubber and directly to the ground plane alongside. Then I'll use a wired resistor across from the yellow square to the pink square pins at the connector on your photo. No wires needed, and no cutting the rubber membrane!

THANK you for running interference on this!

 

[biking4jesus]

so who wants to start retrofitting switches for members?

first guy in would ideally want to buy a new board, so there's a "core" to use in the time it takes to turn around a modified board.

 

[Z0RrO]

so who wants to start retrofitting switches for members?

When I will have done mine and perfectly satisfied with the appearance of the light, I will offer this service to members based in the Montreal region.

 

[RedBaron]

OK, well I did mine! Using a regular T1 LED (since that's what I had) and NO extra wires. Again, a big thanks to brchan for leading the way!

I bent the LED wires such that they'd fit around the switch membrane without needing to cut it. I soldered the anode 'leg' to the PCB patch & trace that leads to the 'pink square' connector pin in brchan's earlier photo. I then scratched an area of the ground plane clean and soldered the other, cathode, leg to that. Picture worth a thousand words (note the heatshrink insulation on the anode leg):

This is the LED with the membrane reattached:

Then I soldered a regular 1/3 watt resistor directly across the 'yellow square' (+12V supply) and 'pink square' (LED anode) connector pins in brchan's photo - see the yellow and pink arrows below:

I started with a 5100 ohm resistor to test the LED brightness compared to the existing window switch backlight. With the LED I used it was still too bright, but I also saw that although it was a deep amber LED, it was not as deep as the existing backlight color. So I found a red rice-bulb 'condom' (for coloring tiny incandescent lamps) that I'd taken off something else and stuck it over the LED. That made the resulting color PERFECT, but dimmed the output considerably, so I ended up having to go DOWN to a 3300 ohm resistor instead, to match both color AND intensity.

Just as a note, if you do this the preferred way, with an 0805 surface mount LED, you can still avoid long wires. Just bridge the end of the cathode trace to the ground plane alongside it, with either a solder blob, or short bare wire. Then use the regular radial wire resistor like I did.

Note 2: Further to brchan's "auto-up/down reset" tip above... When you put the PCB back into the switch box, first make SURE the driver-window Hall-effect (slider) switch is in the CENTER position. You can easily knock it out of place when handling the board, and if so, the driver window plastic button won't engage and your driver window won't go up and down at all! See red arrow below:

 

[tibimakai]

Nice job.
Eventually I will do this myself, but now I'm busy on the audio setup.
I'm wondering, if it would be possible to make each window to go up, or down automatically(one touch) as the driver's window.

 

[RedBaron]

Nice job.
Eventually I will do this myself, but now I'm busy on the audio setup.
I'm wondering, if it would be possible to make each window to go up, or down automatically(one touch) as the driver's window.

Yes, if you use two of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) (Directed Electronics 535T)

I've used the (apparently) previous model, the 530t, before and it works VERY well. Pinch control and everything. No experience with this replacement, though all the DEI stuff I've used has been very good. Only problem is these are for two windows, so you'd have to get two of them, and then not use one of the 'channels'.

 

[tibimakai]

RedBaron, I would like to do this LED install myself. I'm about to place an order on Digikey for something else and I would like to order what I will need for this install also.
I have not got around to open the switch yet.
I would like to replace all the LEDs with the same type and that way I won't have mismatched colors.
Could you please, help me out with what I would need, like LED size(0805 it's OK, which color?), resistor size and value? I will find them at Digikey. Thank you very much. I'm at work right now.

 

[tibimakai]

I have took it apart and ordered the parts.
Anybody has done the passenger side?

 

[brchan]

Could you please, help me out with what I would need, like LED size(0805 it's OK, which color?), resistor size and value? I will find them at Digikey. Thank you very much. I'm at work right now.

There isn't an exact recipe yet as to what parts will work. Right now any amber orange 0805 rated for greater than 30mcd should be a good start.

Like RedBaron mentioned, our vision is non-linear and the light is pretty dim. I'll be trying this LED later to get a better color match: LTST-C170KFKT

It is rated for 90mcd but that give me lots of room to lower the current to the point where I don't need a 1/2 watt 1210 resistor and just a single 1/4 watt 1206 resistor will work. I expect it to be sub 10mA. Actually after all this soldering, I might just solder a 5k trim pot and adjust in-situ.

As for the passenger side, the button is also translucent. But it seems to be a digital only signal that goes to the switch. There are two possiblilites, run power from somewhere else to the switch. Or a more adventurous path is to power the LED from the digital signal (active low) with the understanding that the LED will turn off when the switch is pressed.

 

[RedBaron]

RedBaron, I would like to do this LED install myself. I'm about to place an order on Digikey for something else and I would like to order what I will need for this install also.
I have not got around to open the switch yet.
I would like to replace all the LEDs with the same type and that way I won't have mismatched colors.
Could you please, help me out with what I would need, like LED size(0805 it's OK, which color?), resistor size and value? I will find them at Digikey. Thank you very much. I'm at work right now.

Sorry, missed this yesterday, so I may be too late

Yes, 0805 is the size. You'll need a deep orange-red to match the existing color. I'd say something at least 610nm and maybe closer to 620nm wavelength at a guess. (My bare LEDs above, were rated at 601nm and were too light an orange without the red filters.)

 

[RedBaron]

There isn't an exact recipe yet as to what parts will work. Right now any amber orange 0805 rated for greater than 30mcd should be a good start.

Like RedBaron mentioned, our vision is non-linear and the light is pretty dim. I'll be trying this LED later to get a better color match: LTST-C170KFKT

That part shows a dominant wavelength of 605nm, so I think it will be too light an orange still. I'd try for something nearer 620nm, such as (maybe) LTST-C170KAKT

It is rated for 90mcd but that give me lots of room to lower the current to the point where I don't need a 1/2 watt 1210 resistor and just a single 1/4 watt 1206 resistor will work. I expect it to be sub 10mA. Actually after all this soldering, I might just solder a 5k trim pot and adjust in-situ.

I would still suggest you use a wired resistor and jumper across the connector pins - rather than SM resistors and then a jumper wire. But up to you

As for the passenger side, the button is also translucent. But it seems to be a digital only signal that goes to the switch. There are two possiblilites, run power from somewhere else to the switch. Or a more adventurous path is to power the LED from the digital signal (active low) with the understanding that the LED will turn off when the switch is pressed.

Schematic shows that there's 12V accessory power to the window switch (just like the driver side) - so you should be able to jumper to that.