pjensen641
Member
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- 2013 CX-5 AWD Touring Zeal Red
20 minutes to go 4 miles? That's your problem I bet. 13 MPH average is below the EPA average of 20 mph. I'm sure your engine stays on the colder side of operating temps too.
EPA Urban drive cycle
MPG Average
- Thread starter Surfsup
- Start date
20 minutes to go 4 miles? That's your problem I bet. 13 MPH average is below the EPA average of 20 mph. I'm sure your engine stays on the colder side of operating temps too.
EPA Urban drive cycle
It's a 2014 (2014.5 I think) CX5 Grand Touring 2.5L AWD in Soul Red. The Soul Red is more aerodynamic so I have an advantage over all you knuckle-draggers in your white and gray CX5s...bwahaahahahhahaaaaaa (pinky on cheek)
I actually started a spreadsheet as well (though I won't track filling station etc) just odometer start, stop, gallons and MPG
joemon1984
Member
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- cx5 2014 GT
Its warming up in canada and I already saw a big jump with gas milage. I was getting 11L/100km, last day after my long highway trip it was showing 7.8l/100km. My car is 4500 km now and I think it broke in too... I am happy.
After three fill-ups I'm at 26.9 mpg so far. CX5 2.5L AWD GT. I should mention 90% of my use is commuting to work. In Chicago lately it has been sub-freezing weather only until this past week. So the engine is very cold at startup and only warms up about 1/3 of the way to work, so getting 27 so far is pretty good. I was at 17 average on my last vehicle. I've been texting myself the gallons and odometer reading then entering it into a spreadsheet when I get home.
White is hotter than red (drive2) ;-)
I've been keeping track of my KMage at http://www.vancouvergasprices.com/ and after 5 full tanks (I'm on #6 tank now) these are my results;
Purchased (Litres): 223.334
Total Cost (CDN $) $300.02 (first full tank was free from dealer)
Economy (L/100km) 9.728
just over 2300KM total.
To me, anything under 10L/100KM is good. I live in a hilly area with stop and go traffic 60% of the time while the rest is highway.
I was never able to get 27mpg in Chicago traffic. Too many stoplights & stupid drivers that wait +5 seconds to move after light turns green & accelerate slowly & drive just below the speed limit holding up traffic. Then when the light turns yellow, they're the first car & the gun it to run the yellow/red while everyone else behind catches the red light.
My last fill up was almost 26mpg, but haven't gotten to 27 unless I drive on the highway.
40+40 is the rule with the CX5.
40mpg at 40mph. I see the sweet spot at 1800-2100 RPMs at 38-42mph. I am sippin' at this combo. On the highway I can only do about 28 based on a mental calculation from watching the on board MPG meter display on the dash while driving. Sure, down hill, drafting a semi, etc will get me higher but usually factoring the mean curve, I'd say I'm at 28-ish on the hwy. The cold starts have been killing me. Last fillup I had a 85minute highway "event" where I was in park. Had my engine off quite a bit of that time but that hurt. So in summary I'd say with the city stop/go, highway stop/go, and cold starts...the CITY driving has been bumping me back up to the 27mpg average! 40/40 my friends. Watch your tach.
40mpg at 40mph. I see the sweet spot at 1800-2100 RPMs at 38-42mph. I am sippin' at this combo. On the highway I can only do about 28 based on a mental calculation from watching the on board MPG meter display on the dash while driving. Sure, down hill, drafting a semi, etc will get me higher but usually factoring the mean curve, I'd say I'm at 28-ish on the hwy. The cold starts have been killing me. Last fillup I had a 85minute highway "event" where I was in park. Had my engine off quite a bit of that time but that hurt. So in summary I'd say with the city stop/go, highway stop/go, and cold starts...the CITY driving has been bumping me back up to the 27mpg average! 40/40 my friends. Watch your tach.
To me, it sounds like you are an aggressive driver, but I don't know you so.
Waiting for +5 seconds is stupid, I agree, but accelerating slowly is what you do for better MPG.
Driving just below speed limit is what you are supposed to do, after all it is a limit, but the flow should also come into consideration.
I hate guys that tailgate me/others and then at every chance switch lanes to get in front of one or two cars, what makes it worse is they don't even use turn signals.
Yes I am an aggressive driver, you have to be here or you will be cutoff repeatily for leaving more than 1-2 car length. People will switch lanes while braking to a red light just to get a few spaces ahead.
I use my signal & weave through traffic & in most cases I'll beat the next light which in turn will yield better mpg.
I usually accerlate to +5mph over the speed limit & keep it there unless there are people going faster, then I keep with the flow. I drive the same roads to/from work so I slow down where the speed traps are. Of course the person going 50pm in a 35mph zone never gets caught & makes the light while I get stopped by it.
I drove my wife's CX-5 to work for w few months because she was on maternity leave & because I keep it on the average mpg screen to the right, I tend to accerlate slower or not downshift to pass to get better mpg.
In my speed6, it's a race every time I get in the car. Lol. Average <21mpg in it. But I love how much power it has even in 6th gear.
I'm taking 294 to O'hare every day (office off Manheim/Higgins). I just filled up and hit 29.0 mpg. Not bad! Maybe it's breaking in or maybe it is the warmer weather (no more -10 degree starts)...I'm going to change my oil now that I'm at 1500 miles. I wanna get rid of the gray slurry in the engine and hit it again for the dealer swap at 5k. I might install the Fumoto oil plug but I worry they might steal it and I won't be able to check b/c they will put the cover back over it. So Might wait to install the Fumoto until after the dealer is done with their free oil changes. I have to weigh the annoyance of driving there, waiting, driving back. I can change my oil in 15 minutes - but it costs me $40.
I mention the oil change b/c others have posted their mpg goes up after the initial oil change.
I mention the oil change b/c others have posted their mpg goes up after the initial oil change.
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I recommend leaving the factory oil in for at least 3-5000 miles. True, you might get 1 mpg better with slipperier oil but I really do believe the factory fill is a special formula that is optimum for the wearing in process. I don't have any direct evidence of this but it can't hurt to leave it in there. And the oil will not be a grey slurry, even after 5,000 miles. These engines are made to very high tolerances and the filter will take care of any particles large enough to be an issue.
I highly doubt anyone at your dealership would steal a Fumoto oil valve. Aren't they less than $30?
In any case, oil is the most vital necessity of an engine and I want that drain orifice plugged as securely as possible. A valve has more leak potential than a bolt and a finger operated lever can be bumped into the wrong position. If I hit a large rock in the road or bottom out off-road or am involved in an accident I don't want to find out that all my oil has drained out due to a brass valve that has broken off or been actuated to the open position. It's really not difficult to remove an oil drain plug to drain the oil.
Also if there are any engine issues and you cannot prove oil changes were done (receipts for oil does not prove there was an oil change done on your car) they can void your warranty. Happened to a guy's speed6 on 6Crew. We saw/heard his engine blow up at a meet by simply revving his engine. He couldn't prove he did oil changes, he had to pay for a new engine.
I bring my own Mobil 1 0W-20 synthetic oil & Mazda OEM filter to the dealer for oil changes & the charge me ~$8 in labor & disposal fee. Get the 30 point inspection too where they check brake pads, tire wear, battery, fill windshield wiper fluid.
For $8, I'm not climbing under the car & getting my hands dirty. Especially in the winter. Plus no potential to void the warranty. I changed the oil at 5k & 10k miles. Dealer puts the mileage at 7500 later in the sticker. But we drive ~5k every 6 months, it's long enough interval to change the oil.
Well I'm going to disagree. A dealer stole two lugnuts off my Isuzu. I have NEVER lost a lugnut, yet I lose one at the same dealer during two consecutive visits (btw Isuzu lugnuts are hard to find). I use an impact wrench. They tried to tell me it was due to vibration. Whatever.
Also had not one but two tired come out of the dealer shop with screws screwed into the sidewall. How does that happen unless someone physically put them there?
Let's see, I've had the toe on my front end "adjusted" without my knowledge ruining tires, the balance of various tires messed with (removal of weights), one of my plugs swapped for a platinum tip Bosch that was not even recommended for my car (just one!), stuff stolen from my car, etc etc. When you take your car to a dealer or a shop or anywhere you have no idea what they do to it.
As far as slurry its there. As a machinist and 5axis expert for aerospace, I know all about tolerances down to less than .000039". You responded to have them do the oil, which means you don't. If you did you'd know. I just did my brother's new Chevy Malibu with 2k miles. Care to guess what the oil looked like?
As far as the warranty I agree they can play foul with the Fumoto, but I don't expect my engine to blow up on me. Having worked on my own cars for many years, I expect I'd know if the oil drained out or there was a serious problem, ahead of time.
I'd rather save the $8, AND spend more time at home instead of a waiting room. The fumoto is more about staying clean.
CX-5tormtrooper
Member
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- CX-Triton
After doing some research, I am definitely buying a Fumoto valve after the next 5,000 miles. I think that if you hit something hard enough in the CX-5 to damage or dislodge the valve, based on where it is located, you're going to have much more to worry about than an oil leak/spill.
Maybe, maybe not. The decision is individual - I'm simply saying from my perspective I don't want to add another potential point of failure simply to avoid removing a drain plug, something that I do on a regular basis on four of my seven vehicles. The remaining three vehicles are dealer serviced and a drain valve offers no benefit. I can hear it now, "we lowered the labor charge by $0.21 because we didn't need to remove the drain plug", LOL!
I have a Canadian 2014 CX-5 AWD with the 2.5L engine. It has about 4000 km on board and I just changed to the stock all-season tires.
I did a long (1000 km or so) highway trip, with cruise control set between 110 and 120 km/h, and my over-all fuel consumption for the trip was around 9.3 l/100 km (by my own calculation, although the on-board computer was pretty much dead-on as well)
according to fueleconomy.gov the AWD CX5 should get 30 mpg which is about 8 l/100 km.
However, mazda.ca actually says this car should do 8.5 l/100 city and 6.6 l/100 highway.
how can they claim such different fuel consumption in two different countries?
If I lower the speed from 120 to 100 or 90 km/h the fuel consumption will go down, but maybe to 8 l/100 km, certainly not to 6.6.
I did a long (1000 km or so) highway trip, with cruise control set between 110 and 120 km/h, and my over-all fuel consumption for the trip was around 9.3 l/100 km (by my own calculation, although the on-board computer was pretty much dead-on as well)
according to fueleconomy.gov the AWD CX5 should get 30 mpg which is about 8 l/100 km.
However, mazda.ca actually says this car should do 8.5 l/100 city and 6.6 l/100 highway.
how can they claim such different fuel consumption in two different countries?
If I lower the speed from 120 to 100 or 90 km/h the fuel consumption will go down, but maybe to 8 l/100 km, certainly not to 6.6.
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pjensen641
Member
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- 2013 CX-5 AWD Touring Zeal Red
Take a look at my post on another thread. Its the CA government regulations that are (or were) totally unrealistic in regards to estimates. Mazda is required to follow the rules for each country, hence the difference. The US improved the realism of the test procedure a few years back, and Canada has just done it too I think.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123835515-MPG-US-or-Imperial&p=6253101&viewfull=1#post6253101
115kph is about 75mph. That's fast for highway government standards where most highways traveled frequently are 55mph. I think they are calculated at 60mph if I recall. The gas consumption will exponentially increase going from 60 to 75mph so 9.3l/100km doesn't sound bad. If there was a 7th gear, though....
A 7th gear would make very little if any difference in MPG at 75 mph.
That's because the exponential fuel consumption increase you mention as speed increases is due to an exponential increase in drag (wind resistance) as speed increases. An extra gear will not change that one bit.
