So I don't need to turn the rotors? I just need to do some 60 mph full stops??
i thought that was some bastard device to cut tires lol
The quoted article from GRM is actually why I use PowerSlot rotors. Judging from the brake dust and other crap built up in the slots I'd say they work too. Enough to be noticeable? Probably not. I also like that they coated the hubs but that could be accomplished with caliper paint. I was willing to pay the extra price for the "perceived" performance and the look.I was going to type up a post about drilled and slotted rotors, but I found this one that has basically all of the information that I was going to throw out there: http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gd-braking/67007-real-deal-about-cross-drilled-slotted-rotors.html
I'd say it can't hurt but what pads are you using? High-performance street and track pads are designed to withstand many hard stops from speeds. A lot of consumer-grade pads are only intended for a few "panic stops." If you're running something along the lines of Hawk HPS or more aggressive pads give it a try. Like I mentioned before I remember reading about CX-9 owners complaining about brake vibration. I believe the official response from Mazda was to do a couple "hard" stops to bed in the pads and rotors. Worst case is your rotors ARE warped. In that case I recommend just getting the cheapest blanks you can find. I was never fond of turning.
I have HPS pads all the way around on Centric rotors. Is it pointless to do it?
The obvious question now is "is there a "cure" for discs with uneven friction material deposits?" The answer is a conditional yes. If the vibration has just started, the chances are that the temperature has never reached the point where cementite begins to form. In this case, simply fitting a set of good "semi-metallic" pads and using them hard (after bedding) may well remove the deposits and restore the system to normal operation but with upgraded pads. If only a small amount of material has been transferred i.e. if the vibration is just starting, vigorous scrubbing with garnet paper may remove the deposit. As many deposits are not visible, scrub the entire friction surfaces thoroughly. Do not use regular sand paper or emery cloth as the aluminum oxide abrasive material will permeate the cast iron surface and make the condition worse. Do not bead blast or sand blast the discs for the same reason.
The only fix for extensive uneven deposits involves dismounting the discs and having them Blanchard ground - not expensive, but inconvenient at best. A newly ground disc will require the same sort of bedding in process as a new disc. The trouble with this procedure is that if the grinding does not remove all of the cementite inclusions, as the disc wears the hard cementite will stand proud of the relatively soft disc and the thermal spiral starts over again. Unfortunately, the cementite is invisible to the naked eye.
Taking time to properly bed your braking system pays big dividends but, as with most sins, a repeat of the behavior that caused the trouble will bring it right back.
^I didn't know all of that stuff about brakes. Yeah I learned something new todayAs for my brakes they will be switch out after finding a job. I'm really suprised my drilled rotors have lasted almost 4 years with the autoX and my driving style.
well "they said" they would be "okay" with street and light racingjk jk jk
Lets just say my brake fluid is almost black from running at Mid-Ohio. I was braking way before I wanted to on the straights.
Lol, hey I know your driver mod is WAY better than mine. I'm going to have to go do a track day up at a track close to me sometime. Only after I get my wheels and brakes and fmic finished though.
you need a turbo, paint, PS pump, fender, rocker panel, etc....
I need nice street tire. I have never bought street tires for the MSP. They have always been off of other wheels that I have had. Rocking out the snow tire in the rear doesn't cut it.
Shut your ***** mouth! My car needs a lot of things. One day...