Nothing is an easy decision in life. Pro's and con's to everything. That's why I research everything I buy for 2 months and loose sleep while doing so. haha
get better tires?
LOL. My car is an absolute ***** when the temp is cold. I'd hate to see that beast try to get traction under 50 deg F.
And btw if I come up to a car with a "SLOW ___" plate, I'm going to assume it's quick.
^This!And btw if I come up to a car with a "SLOW ___" plate, I'm going to assume it's quick.
Silver of course, aren't they all silver? He had an exhaust and was wearing his hat backwards with the bill curled up on the end. Please tell me you know this cat, Jess. Then tell him I said he's a douche bag. lulz.
So I shouldn't get "SLOW RX7" plates when I'm done? I could always go with some cliche form of "no pistons." Contemplating "BRAPBRAP" depending on the final sound of it but part of me feels that'd be lame because I don't have a bridge or peripheral ported engine.
Regarding coolant, the last few years I've been mixing my own with distilled water and the cheapest pure ethylene glycol I could find. I started with the recommended 55/45 water/antifreezemix recommended by the FSM but I think I was up to 75/25 by the time the RX-7 went down. Like Will said the more water content the better because it has better heat transfer properties. Can't go without antifreeze though because I don't feel like cracking on iron over the winter. I used to use water wetter but I've stayed away from it lately as I've read it causes foaming at high RPM.
I also may have discovered the root of my brake issues. I think it's because the check valve on my booster is bad, which sucks because it was supposed to be a super, awesome, performance check valve. It won't even hold vacuum applied via a turkey baster. Basically no matter how many times I pump the pedal I can't get the pressure to change.
So I shouldn't get "SLOW RX7" plates when I'm done? I could always go with some cliche form of "no pistons." Contemplating "BRAPBRAP" depending on the final sound of it but part of me feels that'd be lame because I don't have a bridge or peripheral ported engine.
Regarding coolant, the last few years I've been mixing my own with distilled water and the cheapest pure ethylene glycol I could find. I started with the recommended 55/45 water/antifreezemix recommended by the FSM but I think I was up to 75/25 by the time the RX-7 went down. Like Will said the more water content the better because it has better heat transfer properties. Can't go without antifreeze though because I don't feel like cracking on iron over the winter. I used to use water wetter but I've stayed away from it lately as I've read it causes foaming at high RPM.
I also may have discovered the root of my brake issues. I think it's because the check valve on my booster is bad, which sucks because it was supposed to be a super, awesome, performance check valve. It won't even hold vacuum applied via a turkey baster. Basically no matter how many times I pump the pedal I can't get the pressure to change.
douche style.
How about "3 Rotor"? I bet it's not taken
LOL, that'd make me feel really silly...How about "3 Rotor"? I bet it's not taken
Yep, I bench bled the MC. Twice, actually because I didn't check the piston movement after the first time and I thought there may be some air in the system still. I bled all four corners probably a dozen times last night and I'm not getting any change. Every now and then I'll get a tiny bubble but I'm not thinking that's air getting in through the bleeder fitting. If I was slowly getting air out of the system I'd expect the pedal feel would change but I'm not getting anything, The thing that has me stuck is why I can't build up stiffness in the pedal. If it were air, pumping the pedal would briefly build pressure and with the car off the pedal should get stiff due to the lack of vacuum in the booster. I thought the latter was due to the lack of a check valve but even when I installed that nothing changed. That's when I found out the check valve isn't holding vacuum either. I'm going to buy a cheap plastic one at Autozone after work today to see if that fixes anything.I responded on RCC for you:
Could the problem be lead back to not bench priming the MC before putting it in the car? When I swapped clutch MC on my 7, you could pressure bleed it, but you had to sit there and prime the pedal for a good half an hour to get fluid in and bubbles out of the master cylinder.
Just a thought, since I had issues that just needed time.