The Ohio Random Thread... aka We Should Probably Be Working

Nothing is an easy decision in life. Pro's and con's to everything. That's why I research everything I buy for 2 months and loose sleep while doing so. haha
 
Nothing is an easy decision in life. Pro's and con's to everything. That's why I research everything I buy for 2 months and loose sleep while doing so. haha

I've never lost sleep over my "project" car. Except for the week or so after I wrecked the 1st one :( Couldn't close my eyes without reliving it
 
Interesting. Never heard of the Evans stuff. I wonder if there's any residual coolant left in my block. It's been flipped upside down a few times, been with me for 2.5 years... Unsure about how long it sat at the yard.


Thoughts? Did it all evaporate?

And the solution to not being able to add water to it, would be to carry at least a gallon with you wherever you go. I honestly usually do that anyways, lol (and just hope nothing catastrophic happens where you need more)

I used to lose sleep in high school just thinking about all the s*** I wanted to do to my car. At some point that stopped and I'm asleep as soon as my head hits the pillow thankfully lol.
 
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Hey douche bag kid in the GTO tailgating, speeding up to block the left lane and trying to get me to street race, I don't think the cat with the license plate "SLOW MS6" with cruise control set to 75 wants to street race. Why did it take you 15 miles to realize that? ugh.
 
What color GTO?

And btw if I come up to a car with a "SLOW ___" plate, I'm going to assume it's quick.
 
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Silver of course, aren't they all silver? He had an exhaust and was wearing his hat backwards with the bill curled up on the end. Please tell me you know this cat, Jess. Then tell him I said he's a douche bag. lulz.
 
So I shouldn't get "SLOW RX7" plates when I'm done? I could always go with some cliche form of "no pistons." Contemplating "BRAPBRAP" depending on the final sound of it but part of me feels that'd be lame because I don't have a bridge or peripheral ported engine.

Regarding coolant, the last few years I've been mixing my own with distilled water and the cheapest pure ethylene glycol I could find. I started with the recommended 55/45 water/antifreezemix recommended by the FSM but I think I was up to 75/25 by the time the RX-7 went down. Like Will said the more water content the better because it has better heat transfer properties. Can't go without antifreeze though because I don't feel like cracking on iron over the winter. I used to use water wetter but I've stayed away from it lately as I've read it causes foaming at high RPM.

I also may have discovered the root of my brake issues. I think it's because the check valve on my booster is bad, which sucks because it was supposed to be a super, awesome, performance check valve. It won't even hold vacuum applied via a turkey baster. Basically no matter how many times I pump the pedal I can't get the pressure to change.
 
When i had my temp tags, ricers and bros tried to race me all the time. As soon as i got the 2rbo wgn plates, ive only had a slobalt ss s/c want to try to run
 
Silver of course, aren't they all silver? He had an exhaust and was wearing his hat backwards with the bill curled up on the end. Please tell me you know this cat, Jess. Then tell him I said he's a douche bag. lulz.

douche style.

So I shouldn't get "SLOW RX7" plates when I'm done? I could always go with some cliche form of "no pistons." Contemplating "BRAPBRAP" depending on the final sound of it but part of me feels that'd be lame because I don't have a bridge or peripheral ported engine.

Regarding coolant, the last few years I've been mixing my own with distilled water and the cheapest pure ethylene glycol I could find. I started with the recommended 55/45 water/antifreezemix recommended by the FSM but I think I was up to 75/25 by the time the RX-7 went down. Like Will said the more water content the better because it has better heat transfer properties. Can't go without antifreeze though because I don't feel like cracking on iron over the winter. I used to use water wetter but I've stayed away from it lately as I've read it causes foaming at high RPM.

I also may have discovered the root of my brake issues. I think it's because the check valve on my booster is bad, which sucks because it was supposed to be a super, awesome, performance check valve. It won't even hold vacuum applied via a turkey baster. Basically no matter how many times I pump the pedal I can't get the pressure to change.

How about "3 Rotor"? I bet it's not taken
 
So I shouldn't get "SLOW RX7" plates when I'm done? I could always go with some cliche form of "no pistons." Contemplating "BRAPBRAP" depending on the final sound of it but part of me feels that'd be lame because I don't have a bridge or peripheral ported engine.

Regarding coolant, the last few years I've been mixing my own with distilled water and the cheapest pure ethylene glycol I could find. I started with the recommended 55/45 water/antifreezemix recommended by the FSM but I think I was up to 75/25 by the time the RX-7 went down. Like Will said the more water content the better because it has better heat transfer properties. Can't go without antifreeze though because I don't feel like cracking on iron over the winter. I used to use water wetter but I've stayed away from it lately as I've read it causes foaming at high RPM.

I also may have discovered the root of my brake issues. I think it's because the check valve on my booster is bad, which sucks because it was supposed to be a super, awesome, performance check valve. It won't even hold vacuum applied via a turkey baster. Basically no matter how many times I pump the pedal I can't get the pressure to change.

I responded on RCC for you:

Could the problem be lead back to not bench priming the MC before putting it in the car? When I swapped clutch MC on my 7, you could pressure bleed it, but you had to sit there and prime the pedal for a good half an hour to get fluid in and bubbles out of the master cylinder.

Just a thought, since I had issues that just needed time.
 
How about "3 Rotor"? I bet it's not taken
LOL, that'd make me feel really silly...

I responded on RCC for you:

Could the problem be lead back to not bench priming the MC before putting it in the car? When I swapped clutch MC on my 7, you could pressure bleed it, but you had to sit there and prime the pedal for a good half an hour to get fluid in and bubbles out of the master cylinder.

Just a thought, since I had issues that just needed time.
Yep, I bench bled the MC. Twice, actually because I didn't check the piston movement after the first time and I thought there may be some air in the system still. I bled all four corners probably a dozen times last night and I'm not getting any change. Every now and then I'll get a tiny bubble but I'm not thinking that's air getting in through the bleeder fitting. If I was slowly getting air out of the system I'd expect the pedal feel would change but I'm not getting anything, The thing that has me stuck is why I can't build up stiffness in the pedal. If it were air, pumping the pedal would briefly build pressure and with the car off the pedal should get stiff due to the lack of vacuum in the booster. I thought the latter was due to the lack of a check valve but even when I installed that nothing changed. That's when I found out the check valve isn't holding vacuum either. I'm going to buy a cheap plastic one at Autozone after work today to see if that fixes anything.
 
Trany Mount comes today! And I started my E85 tune Monday and last night I got an iteration and I have come to the conclusion that I love Corn!
 

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