What have you done to your P5 today?

C3B8EB98-EAA4-4EE6-8D59-E7013A2E0E0F-684-000000661C6256CC.jpg
 
Continued Painting My Rims...

Masked Off Tire... Sprayed 3 Coats Of Titanium Silver Focusing On The Lip After 3 Coats Of Primer (Day 1)
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Masked Off Lip And Sprayed 3 Coats Of Gloss Pink... Focusing On The Inside Of The Spoke... Only Got To Do 2 Rims Due To The Tediousness Of Masking It Off (Day 2)
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8317432444_cb088dd250_b.jpg


Masked Off The Inside Of The Spokes And Sprayed 3 Coats Of Carbon Mist... Continued Masking Off The Other 2 Rims And Sprayed The Gloss Pink... 2 Rims Done With Color (Day 3 TODAY)
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8317438698_6bccfde60f_b.jpg


Plan For Day 4 Is To Spray Clear On The 2 Rims That Are Done With The Color Portion And Finish Off The Other Two Rims
 
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I was thinking the same ^ and did you splice into the running lamp/ indicator to get the outside marker to work?

Im planning to put the head back on and not cock that up, then put the oil pan on, fill her up, and start her!!! The timing is going to be the fun bit :) second time round is always easier IMO. packages are on their way :) I had a dream last night I was driving her... Soon that'll hopefully be a reality!
 
Oil change... FINALLY!!!!! I think my oil pan is leaking though, but I'm still not 100% sure if it's from the oil pan or everything that was running down the engine from the valve cover gasket that took a s***. I'll be keeping an eye on it.

In other news, my mom sold her old '98 Neon yesterday. A few years ago she busted a headlight and I got her a decent pair of Depo projectors for $150. She called me and asked me if I wanted anything off the car before she sells it, so I immediately said the headlights. I'm going to rip them apart, salvage the projector, and MAYBE retro them into the fog lights. It's going to take some work, but it should be worth it. Plus, they were technically free... so why not?
 
The cams look good but as you know the crank might be off. Can you wiggle another tooth out of the belt onto the crank gear? You might have to use two wrenches tied together to keep the cams from slipping.

Like this;
holdcams.jpg


(yes, that's a Miata motor, but it's for reference.)
 
Dang, that was fast ;) I'll get on that now. So the cams stay where they are, the crank is the only thing that gets moved?
 
To me (I'm no expert though) it looks like the cams could come up juuuuust a bit. Then clamp them together like the pic to keep them put then try to get the crank lined up and the belt on. Give that a try. Everything may not line up absolutely perfectly since there will be some slack in the belt without the tensioner. But with the tensioner pulley/spring it should all line up. Take your time and you'll get there. (2thumbs)
 
Lewis7789 said:
To me (I'm no expert though) it looks like the cams could come up juuuuust a bit. Then clamp them together like the pic to keep them put then try to get the crank lined up and the belt on. Give that a try. Everything may not line up absolutely perfectly since there will be some slack in the belt without the tensioner. But with the tensioner pulley/spring it should all line up. Take your time and you'll get there. (2thumbs)
Click to expand...

basically the cams are in the exact same spot, only now the bottom bit looks like this

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=50C06A9C62DCD437!815&authkey=!ANssJtXsqW7mshA

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=50C06A9C62DCD437!816&authkey=!AFca2p1V0M19i3k

I have the tensioner in too so im not sure which way is better. Obviouslyid like them to be spot on but that seems impossible as of right now. IIRC, the cams weren't perfectly in line when we went to take the motor apart the very first time... Could it be the cams aren't stamped bang on TDC?
 
KingOfSpades007 said:
basically the cams are in the exact same spot, only now the bottom bit looks like this

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=50C06A9C62DCD437!815&authkey=!ANssJtXsqW7mshA

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=50C06A9C62DCD437!816&authkey=!AFca2p1V0M19i3k

I have the tensioner in too so im not sure which way is better. Obviouslyid like them to be spot on but that seems impossible as of right now. IIRC, the cams weren't perfectly in line when we went to take the motor apart the very first time... Could it be the cams aren't stamped bang on TDC?
Click to expand...

Still doesn't look right.

It seems that the exhaust and crank pulleys have the right number of teeth between them, but I suspect that the intake cam needs to be rotated one tooth counter-clockwise. I know this won't be easy, but that should get everything lined-up correctly. Don't be afraid to use a wax marker to help you line things up, it sure as hell helped me!

As you said, having the tensioner on will make it easier to check if everything is lined-up properly. Make sure there's no slack on the belt when you're checking the timing marks.
 
I haven't contributed to this thread in a while... I guess I haven't been doing much to my P5 besides driving it!

Yesterday we received almost half a meter of snow and naturally that's when our snowblower decided to break (shear pin on the axle popped). The P5 was used to head down to home depot for some spare parts. I didn't get stuck once, but I probably shortened the lifespan of the diff by quite a few years :P

Today I did an oil change since the weather was nice (still cold, but no wind). Mandatory pics:
Hxc8K.jpg


The ice formed all around the exhaust pipe, you can't see it very well, but it's there:
9RWB2.jpg
 
Thanks for helping out, Nick. I think you've done your timing belt on your FS too and I'm old so my memory isn't all that great.
 
CheeseHelmet said:
Still doesn't look right.

It seems that the exhaust and crank pulleys have the right number of teeth between them, but I suspect that the intake cam needs to be rotated one tooth counter-clockwise. I know this won't be easy, but that should get everything lined-up correctly. Don't be afraid to use a wax marker to help you line things up, it sure as hell helped me!

As you said, having the tensioner on will make it easier to check if everything is lined-up properly. Make sure there's no slack on the belt when you're checking the timing marks.
Click to expand...

I think its bang on now :)

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=50C06A9C62DCD437!817&authkey=!AAUqZwEqn2Axo2o

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=50C06A9C62DCD437!818&authkey=!ALw0FGrfLUpdkqg

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=50C06A9C62DCD437!819&authkey=!AInyHNH6T929-Yc

Pic for show at the bottom :)

EDIT: I should thank both of you guys for helping me out! I owe it to you guys for helping me do the most tedious part! Anyone know how large the radiator is? I've drained it all out and as far as I know, the block is dry along with the head. Im kinda nervous about leaving the cap off. Any tips on how to fill it up???
 
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Lewis7789 said:
Thanks for helping out, Nick. I think you've done your timing belt on your FS too and I'm old so my memory isn't all that great.
Click to expand...

Yup, it was the first major work I ever did. Fun/nerve-racking stuff :)

KingOfSpades007 said:
I think its bang on now :)

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=50C06A9C62DCD437!817&authkey=!AAUqZwEqn2Axo2o

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=50C06A9C62DCD437!818&authkey=!ALw0FGrfLUpdkqg

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=50C06A9C62DCD437!819&authkey=!AInyHNH6T929-Yc

Pic for show at the bottom :)

EDIT: I should thank both of you guys for helping me out! I owe it to you guys for helping me do the most tedious part! Anyone know how large the radiator is? I've drained it all out and as far as I know, the block is dry along with the head. Im kinda nervous about leaving the cap off. Any tips on how to fill it up???
Click to expand...

That looks perfect!

Regarding the rad, the whole system holds 7.5L of coolant. You fill it by slowly pouring coolant into the rad. The service manual says less than 1L per minute, I assume this is to prevent air pockets.
 
Now im having issues with the tensioner "pulley"/roller... Is there supposed to still be slack in the belt even after I install the tensioner? I've tried to tighten the bolt as tight as it'll go but it won't hold the pulley to the point where the belt has next to no slack. Should I keep tightening the bolt or leave it, as there should be slack?
 
Here goes my Epic story of trying to install the pacemaker header I got from AusOrion

1. Lost an exhaust manifold nut in the bay for 45 mins lol
2. Found out my throttle body was missing a nut AND bolt, and the other nut and bolt were spinning lose (had to replace those)
3. EGR tube was cross threaded into the stock exhaust manifold - that threaded piece luckily came out of the manifold easily and I have a BNIB Mazda replacement
4. Other end of EGR tube was froze in the intake manifold in the most awkward position where I could not get a socket or box wrench on it
5. I had to drill/cut the egr tube so I could attempt to get a socket on it
6. After doing so, I bought the wrong wrench and it was too late last night to get the right one
7. Calvin drove me to Sears this morning and I brought the new EGR tube to get the right socket (1 1/16")
8. Turns out all the PB blaster I used loosened the nut enough that it came off with the monkey wrench and I wasted all that time going to Sears
9. I have a 4" gap between the header outlet and my midpipe - the exhaust shop is not open until next Wednesday and isn't open on weekends
10. Spent 30 mins wiggling the EGR tube into place and finally got everything bolted together. Car is loud as s***.


Now to some pics:

Header vs stock with Corksport J-Pipe
null-43.jpg


Gap
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Trying to get the damn EGR connection at the IM off... (follow me on Instagram: _circuit)
null-41.png


Finally got that b**** ass EGR out
null-40.jpg
 
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