A new engine that doesn't want to stay on
- Thread starter im2bad4ya
- Start date
So you're thinking MAF is off?
If someone can tell me what electrical values I'm supposed to be getting from the MAF wires I can check it with a multimeter
Last edited:
tweety2300
Member
- :
- 2001 mazda protege mp3
If its dieing a lot and you restart it. It probly hasn't been able to charge it. Recharge the battery and try again
yeah, i may have jumped the gun on that one, since im working under te hood and taking things on n off i havent clamped the battery terminal all the way tight. im gonna remive the intake manifold tho and inspect it along with the vac lines to be certain its all good
I haven't taken off the intake manifold just yet, I'm saving that for tomorrow, I'm just gonna try to tackle smaller things before I go that far.
Since I cleaned the EGR last month, I wanna say that that isn't the problem (tho I do have a spare to check it).
Also I know the IAC is a nice culprit so I swapped it with the one on the engine I already had:
But the problem is still the same, so I can eliminate that as the issue. More likely than not, I don't even think it's electrical, it probably mechanical. The troubleshooting will continue tomorrow.
EDIT: I actually can't even lean towards a mechanical issue over electrical, I actually remember the same thing happened with my MX3 and it was the IAC, even as I was chasing for a vacuum leak. Also, getting that IAC sensor off is a MOTHER, who the hell decided on using torx security screws for that???!!!?....I had to use vicegrips to loosen and take them off (unamused)
Since I cleaned the EGR last month, I wanna say that that isn't the problem (tho I do have a spare to check it).
Also I know the IAC is a nice culprit so I swapped it with the one on the engine I already had:
But the problem is still the same, so I can eliminate that as the issue. More likely than not, I don't even think it's electrical, it probably mechanical. The troubleshooting will continue tomorrow.
EDIT: I actually can't even lean towards a mechanical issue over electrical, I actually remember the same thing happened with my MX3 and it was the IAC, even as I was chasing for a vacuum leak. Also, getting that IAC sensor off is a MOTHER, who the hell decided on using torx security screws for that???!!!?....I had to use vicegrips to loosen and take them off (unamused)
Last edited:
UPDATE UPDATE!!! (yippy)
I wish I hadn't taken off the intake manifold first, but oh well, I did and after that check, everything was good.
Then I thought, 'what the hell, let me swap over the EGR, couldn't hurt' and that's when I solved my idle problem! It's back to normal, well, almost.
Even though the car idles properly now and doesn't die, I have a high vacuum of 15 In Hg and my wideband gauge is telling me that I'm leaning out (so much that it doesn't give a reading). After initially starting the car up, I'll get a A/F of 14.7 and then in the span of 5 seconds it'll creep up from that to 17 and then no reading. I wouldn't be surprised if this caused my first two engines to go in the first place. So before I make it a third, I need to know what things to check or what needs cleaning, replacement, etc. I'm almost back on the road, help me get there!!
EDIT: I just got the wideband gauge and didn't have it through the first two engines, though I did get the vacuum gauge when I got the car, and initially I would get an idle of 20 Hg In, then after 2 months vacuum idle would be about 16-15 Hg In.
I wish I hadn't taken off the intake manifold first, but oh well, I did and after that check, everything was good.
Then I thought, 'what the hell, let me swap over the EGR, couldn't hurt' and that's when I solved my idle problem! It's back to normal, well, almost.
Even though the car idles properly now and doesn't die, I have a high vacuum of 15 In Hg and my wideband gauge is telling me that I'm leaning out (so much that it doesn't give a reading). After initially starting the car up, I'll get a A/F of 14.7 and then in the span of 5 seconds it'll creep up from that to 17 and then no reading. I wouldn't be surprised if this caused my first two engines to go in the first place. So before I make it a third, I need to know what things to check or what needs cleaning, replacement, etc. I'm almost back on the road, help me get there!!
EDIT: I just got the wideband gauge and didn't have it through the first two engines, though I did get the vacuum gauge when I got the car, and initially I would get an idle of 20 Hg In, then after 2 months vacuum idle would be about 16-15 Hg In.
Last edited:
UPDATE!!
I apparently got rid of all my vacuum leaks, I had a few loose fuel injectors that just needed proper seeding. Now that that seems to be in order, I still have the issue of my wideband telling me I'm running lean, so lean that it doesn't even log a number, it reads from 14.7-18 and then no reading. I have the wideband sensor hooked up to the J pipe which I've read is fine. I've changed out the injectors, fuel pressure regulator, PRC solenoid, and fuel rail. Maybe it I have another vacuum leak somewhere? I highly doubt it though as we went through all the lines and didn't see anymore leaks, so I'm leaning towards a fuel problem (no pun intended). I'm the only guy with an MSP that runs TOO LEAN! I do have an SSAFC and and can always tune it, but I'd just be putting a band aid on the problem and wasting gas at that. Anyone have a MSP too lean??...any suggestions??
I apparently got rid of all my vacuum leaks, I had a few loose fuel injectors that just needed proper seeding. Now that that seems to be in order, I still have the issue of my wideband telling me I'm running lean, so lean that it doesn't even log a number, it reads from 14.7-18 and then no reading. I have the wideband sensor hooked up to the J pipe which I've read is fine. I've changed out the injectors, fuel pressure regulator, PRC solenoid, and fuel rail. Maybe it I have another vacuum leak somewhere? I highly doubt it though as we went through all the lines and didn't see anymore leaks, so I'm leaning towards a fuel problem (no pun intended). I'm the only guy with an MSP that runs TOO LEAN! I do have an SSAFC and and can always tune it, but I'd just be putting a band aid on the problem and wasting gas at that. Anyone have a MSP too lean??...any suggestions??
tweety2300
Member
- :
- 2001 mazda protege mp3
The ecu could have learned around the ssafc and is trying to fix it but confusing its self. Remove the ssafc reset the ecu and see what happens
tweety2300
Member
- :
- 2001 mazda protege mp3
But that doesn't help when idle is jumping around everywhere...
mazda3gboostin
Member
- :
- 2002 protege lx (sold) ,2003.5 msp
his idle is now fine hes just leaning out according o his wideband
The SSAFC is bypassed, the only thing that gives codes from it to the PCM are the connections for the MAF and O2 wires. It's still hooked up to the power and reads tachometer signal and wideband readings, but that won't affect the cars PCM.
CORRECT!
First thing's first is to bench test the wideband sensor itself. Once I know that's in working order I'm gonna inspect he upstream O2 sensor.
tweety2300
Member
- :
- 2001 mazda protege mp3
It's been proven before that the ecu's can learn that a piggy back is there giving it false readings...
It takes 10 seconds to pull the power wire to see what happens
It takes 10 seconds to pull the power wire to see what happens
If there's one thing I know is electronics and signal flow. The vacuum line, tach signal and aux wires on the SSAFC READ ONLY. The car PCM can't "learn" that a piggy back is there unless the O2 and MAF wires are connected to it which READ & WRITE to the PCM. It's only power, whether it was tapped onto the PCM or run directly from the battery, the PCM can't "learn" that it's there. I can always try it, but it's futile.
tweety2300
Member
- :
- 2001 mazda protege mp3
Doesn't the ssafc alter the voltage from the maf to the ecu to adjust how much fuel it sends? If not explain how your doing any tuning to add or take away fuel
