MP5 Quiz time: Blown rings.. Head gasket, both.... Valve guides, bent valve?

[dany10boy]

2002 manual MP5 with 90k miles.

Just picked it up for a good price knowing it might need an engine.

Intake and exhaust as far as I can see.

Looks like this engine has seen boost.... 99% sure of it actually.

(((((I'm not a mechanic, I'm up for any feedback.)))))


Engine starts up quick and easy.

No abnormal noises.

Misses at idle and throughout power band.

Doesn't stall.

good bit of blow-by through oil fill, dipstick has not shot out so far.

Smokes a little after worm up, smells like oil, burns white.

Lacks power.

Intake filter covered in oil.

Cyl. one and four appear wet when viewing through spark plug holes.

Water in rad. appears to be yoohoo brown but still transparent...ish.

Oil looks clean on dipstick and through oil filler neck.

have a seal leak which saturates everything on #1 side of the engine

I did a dry compression test, then a wet. On the dry the compression in order from 1-4 was 145, 135, 80, 145, the wet in order was 200, 180, 150, 200.

spark plug one has white build up (chunky) sp. two and three are dry and look normal, sp. four is wet with oil.


Is it possible that all this could just be from a bad head gasket or am I (dreaming) looking at a full rebuild or engine swap? Maybe seafoam, then headgasket since I've already got a full gasket kit? Please chime in, I'd like to be sure before I decide to tear the whole thing apart or just buy a "good" used engine.

Ps. Anyone selling a good working engine under 90k miles?

Oh and btw I just got Spec stage 2 clutch, Fidanza billet flywheel and SS braided clutch hose. YAY! Is there any point in cryo treating the trans, how does that work anyway? Planing to go low boost, nothing crazy.

 

[tweety2300]

Sounds more like rings your coolant is probly dirty. Or it could be both

Quick way to check if it's been turbo'd look on the oil pan and see if it's been tapped for the oil line that the way most people do it

 

[ihone]

with the rad fluid being discolored, #2/3 holes compression being noticeably lower than 1&4, the oily blowby, and the smoking - I'd say a head gasket is in order. It's a cheaper route to determine the issue than other options.

just my $0.02

 

[wallabe]

I second the head gasket. Any time you have water in the radiator and you are burning white smoke means water in getting in somewhere.

 

[tweety2300]

I second the head gasket. Any time you have water in the radiator and you are burning white smoke means water in getting in somewhere.

Isn't water in the radiator normal?

 

[StealthWyvern]

Isn't water in the radiator normal?

He means in the combustion chamber

 

[i12drivemyMP5]

Cylinder 2 looks a bit low & cylinder 3 compression numbers suck compared to the others. The readings aren't supposed to vary from one another that much. The little bit on 2 would be OK if 3 was like 1 & 4. IIRC, the max variance is supposed to be less than 30 from one another. Kinda looks like ring issues but hoping it's just head gasket going out.

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

If there is water in the chamber... the easy way to know is that the spark plugs will be much cleaner than the others..

Steam Cleaned...

 

[i12drivemyMP5]

He has sp plug pics above but not sure what order they are in. If 1st pic = 1 & 2 then 2 looks clean. If 2nd pic = 3 & 4 then 4 looks cleaner.

 

[dany10boy]

hehe, steam cleaned!

 

[dany10boy]

Yeah, 1st pic is 1 and 2 and 2nd pic is 3 and 4. Another time I took the plugs out right after running and #4 was wet with what looked like oil. Anyone have any good links of full FS-DE engine rebuilds. What's a good set of rods, what to they go for$$$? Thanks for all your feedback btw

 

[tweety2300]

K1 rods $400 good for 400 hp, pauter 6 or 700 good for 600 hp

I'll be going with k1 when I build mine

 

[Carbully]

Your next step is to perform a Cylinder Leakdown test, where each cylinder is pressurized with air pressure one at a time. Low compression can only leak out of 4 places: 1)Intake valve, 2)Exhaust valve, 3)Crankcase (past worn or broken rings or a hole in the piston), or 4)cracked or warped cyl head/gasket into another cylinder or cooling system.

This test is only useful for the first 3 causes. It uses a guage that shows the percentage of air you are loosing in each cylinder. When each cyinder is pressurized you can listen in the throttle body, tailpipe, and oil filler hole (cap removed). If you have burned or stuck intake valve you will hear the air hissing out the throttle body. Burned or stuck Exhaust valve will cause air hissing noise in the tailpipe. Worn or broken rings will hiss out the oil filler hole.

Usually a compression loss through cracked or warped head or head gasket won't show through this test but would through a "block test" which is a simple chemical test of the gasses present above the coolant in the top of the radiator.

The only one of these issues that normaly would cause oil to come up into the air cleaner is #3 worn or broken rings. Do the Cylinder Leakdown test first though before you start ripping the engine down.

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

Anyone have any good links of full FS-DE engine rebuilds. What's a good set of rods, what to they go for$$$? Thanks for all your feedback btw

Go you my website, there is a section of How To...

There is one on how to forge a motor, most of the parts are there by price and part number.

 

[dany10boy]

Thanks Carbully, that's good feedback. Brian, I'll be looking at your website, thanks.

 

[dany10boy]

Cracked, broken pistons. 3 out of 4!

 

[dany10boy]

Good machine shops in town???

 

[dany10boy]

 

[dany10boy]

 

[dany10boy]