Sway Bar End Links and Bushings

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Just how much longer are these links supposed to be? I ordered a pair for a V6 AWD Escape, and this is what I got. I had to clamp the sway bar to the control arm and literally stand on the arm, just to get the sway bar into the strut, and obviously the strut will not go anywhere near the knuckle now. That simply does not seem right.

These are FEQ though, and they still have the crappy hex bolt design. I definitely am going to return the one I haven't used, and get Moog, but does anyone have the Moog part # they used, to make absolutely sure I get the right one? I'm already way behind on getting this car fixed.
 
Moog K80104. I bought it from Amazon.com. Your photo doesn't look like the right part. The Moog end link doesn't have the same hex-in-stud design as the OE part; there's a nut behind the boot you hold with a wrench while tightening the nut, which is a great design.
 
Yeah, I know they're not the ideal style, but they should be the same length, no? That's the part that threw me off. I was prepared to accept that they would be a pain in the rear to remove, down the line, but they don't fit at all.

AWR lists different end-links for 1995-2000 and 2000+. Could this be the source of the problem? (I have a 2000) Or did AWR just mislabel the second gens as going up to 2000? I have a feeling it's just mislabeled... so I'm still stumped as to why these Escape links don't fit. Maybe they're the wrong [year/model] Escape links...
 
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Look at the photo. The strut's end-link mounting points are way different, one is just above the hub mounting bolts, the other right under the spring perch. This seems to be a 1999-2000 compared to 2001-2003 difference. Another source of front clunking is that the O rings (looks like a rubber ring with a silver clamp around it) that center the front sway bar from moving laterally loosen up over time and allow the FSB to shift left to right as the steering wheel is turned, decreasing the FSB's effectiveness.
 
So, the 99-00 need shorter end-links, is what I should understand? Or that the struts are different. If the struts are different, that's incredibly inconvenient.

Well, I got some good news anyways:
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CTR part #CLMZ-20. As you can see- no crapass hex. I opted for the 229mm, the shorter of two options available from my retailer. That's 9", pretty much. Significantly shorter than the "Escape" endlinks I am stuck with.
 
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I have a 1999 Mazda Protege 1.6L DOHC. Had it for over a year now and she runs like a top. Only problem I've had is what seemed like the suspension. I'm not exactly rolling in the dough here so after buying the car it took me some time to sock away some money for some parts here. Let me be clear...

Let me be clear. The ride is rough.

So just about 2 weeks ago I finally got together Struts/Coils/Strut Mounts/Brakes/Calipers/Rotors for the front and back end. I knew the brakes were shot and I thought for certain the struts were as well. I also believed that after doing this work that the "clunking" would cease to be. I mean it isn't pretty. It literally sounds like the thing is going to fall apart but I know full well that it isn't. The mech. who did it for me is a friend who has a sweet white miata he works on like his baby so I know he can be trusted. But unfortunately doing this did not fix the issue.

So I finally got mad... and found a reputable solid forum community for this very thing (Thanks Mazdas246.com)- ready to ask for some help and BAM. The information I need is already here. This sounds PRECISELY like my issue. And good thing it is a cheap repair as well. Thank you.

To the original poster- Did replacing this part indeed fix that stiff ride? Or were there are connective bushings/bearings/balljoints that needed to follow? I like to do a complete job so I don't have to go back and think about it again.

Thank you all. I sincerely appreciate it.
 
The early Protege's had the shorter links (99-2000).
The later models use the longer ones. They moved the mounting point higher up on the strut.
For my 99 I put in later model struts and got the longer links. This works out better.
I got my struts from a junkyard from a low mileage 2003 wreck, They fit just fine.
 
So basically its the case that this particular cars links was too short. What I'm gathering is even if I bought stock links that I would still encounter this problem- so the solution is to find a suitable, longer replacement?
 
well they arent really too short. they were fine from the factory and dont really cause any performance decrease/
 
Bump.
My driver side sway bar link has play to it when you move it by hand underneath the car and the left does not. This explains the rubbing noise while driving i assume. Looking to replace both of the links.
So the 2002 links and bushings fit on the 2003 protege speed's stock suspension and sway bar?
Also, how does the jack situation work? Where and when does pressure need to be applied/relieved?
 
Bump.
My driver side sway bar link has play to it when you move it by hand underneath the car and the left does not. This explains the rubbing noise while driving i assume. Looking to replace both of the links.
So the 2002 links and bushings fit on the 2003 protege speed's stock suspension and sway bar?

yes.

Also, how does the jack situation work? Where and when does pressure need to be applied/relieved?

you want both wheels off the ground, so that there is no cross pressure on the sway bar. if the sway bar is loaded at all, you will not be able to remove the end links safely.
 
Hey, since this thread seems to still be alive - Will the Escape end links fit on a 2001 Protege ES that has been lowered ~ 2 inches in the front? I just installed new Struts with Tein S Tech springs. Had to cut the old ones out.

O'Reilly only has them for the front. What would you recommend for the read? Moogs?
 

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