stumble getting worse.

Toasty

Member
ive had my 03.5msp since 2006. the car was originally purchased for me by my parents, but i bought it from them in early 2008. before the money changed hands my dad sent it in to the local mazda dealer for a tuneup. i dont know exactly what work was done, but it was about $1000 worth of it. shortly after i experienced stumble for the first time. it happened very rarely up until recently. now i havent really given the car gas past about 3000 rpms in about a year due to the turbo intake manifold being cracked, i wasnt sure if this could hurt the car, but i took it easy anyway. i just had the manifold replaced with the steedspeed one a little over a month ago and since then the stumble has been back with a vengeance. it has gotten progressively worse over the last few weeks until i started noticing a slight hesitation today in second gear around 2000 rpms. i was driving like a grandma too and usually i dont notice it if i am driving this way.

i understand that the stumble is caused by an overly rich condition in the engine which is normally attributed to poor tuning from mazda. the thing that i dont understand is how it wasnt an issue at all when i first got the car and it has been slowly getting worse. i know this is a common problem with these cars, but i am about to sell mine and i feel really uncomfortable putting it on the market with this issue.

i guess my real question is this: what exactly are the contributing factors that cause the stumble/hesitation? i mean if the car started out working correctly, there shouldnt be any reason why it shouldnt be able to work correctly again without adding parts that werent previously installed (such as a unichip or ssafc,) right? so would things like, replacing the spark plugs (stronger ignition = more fuel burnt?), the air filter (mine is ready to be changed anyway) have any effect? im not really looking fix the problem so much as find a band aid solution that will lessen the effect the stumble has.
 
i do not have a boost gauge. someone else has suggested the WGA before in a thread i posted years ago, but it got ruled out for one reason or another. i think im going to have to take another look at this. is this a part i can easily replace myself?
 
I would recommend, even if it is only for diagnostics, getting a boost/vac gauge.

This will let you know how much vaccume your car is pulling (how leak proof it is) and how much boost you are running (aka if the wasegate is going bad) IF the wastegate is stuck open= no boost, if stuck closed, you would notice the fuel cut :)

This is a simple process, and you can even find very cheap 2inch (mechanical) gauges for like $17. (I prefer mechanical)
 
i think i will do that, could rule out my having to spend $135 on a wastegate actuator. is there anything else i should look at?
 
You need to check your WGA by sucking on the vac line going to it and then placing your tongue on the hose and see if it holds pressure.

How are your plugs and wires?
 
My car hits boost cut at 6-7psi. it will hit it in every gear but 1st. WG?

my car also does not exhibit any sort of issues in 1st gear. does this rule out the WGA for me too?

forgot to add that the car does not exhibit any odd behavior when revving the car out of gear. im guessing this has something to do with a load being on the engine, but i dont really understand why 1st gear would work and the others cause the hesitation.
 
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well im happy to report that the stumble was caused by sparkplugs, specifically the wrong ones. got them changed and now the car runs like a champ.
 
I was going to suggest you check the plug gap. I had the same problem with my MSP. It wouldn't hurt to pull them and make sure they are NGK ZFR6F-11 gapped to .028-.032"
 
Ok I was told to gap at 44 from the dealer ship. Wtf. That's probably my problem then.
 
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