Jack point (adapter) for hydraulic jacks?

[Silentnoise713]

Had to jack up the car to check something underneath. Was going to use my hydraulic jack but quickly realize the jack points have REALLY tall pinch welding. Most aftermarket hydraulic jacks come with relatively flat, rotating cups which would is not suited for the Mazda5. What do you folks do? Wood block with a corresponding slit?

Also, any good leads on where to place jack stands?

 

[Robotazky]

Seems like there is a cross member that connects the frame in the front. I can't remember exactly, but there is a big bolt facing up in the sub-frame on the bottom. I jack there. There's plenty of real estate around that bolt to jack.

 

[flcruising]

Yea, the jack points are only for the emergency screw jack. Depending on why I'm underneath, I either do what Robotaz mentioned or lift it from a suspension point like the lower A-arm bushing area.

 

[Silentnoise713]

Anyone have a pic of the M5's undercarriage?

 

[thaxman]

+1 on the big bolt where the powertrain member bolts up to the body below the firewall. 1 on each side about 12-18-ish inches in from the backside of the wheelwell.

 

[flcruising]

Go to page 5 here - http://www.finishlineperformance.com/pdf/mazda5/bulletin/02-001-08-1918.pdf

 

[Silentnoise713]

Go to page 5 here - http://www.finishlineperformance.com/pdf/mazda5/bulletin/02-001-08-1918.pdf

Thanks for the visual and reference document.

 

[Silentnoise713]

Here's another link to jack points from a previous thread illustrating both front and rear -see post#5.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...acking-Point&p=3486587&viewfull=1#post3486587

 

[Premacy5]

I use Polyurethane Jack Pad that I got from Harbor Freight.
http://www.harborfreight.com/floor-jack-saddle-pad-96306.html

 

[flcruising]

Good information, but I think you'd have to have a low profile 'racing' jack to get to the front x-member and have any room to jack it up..?

I use a block of wood when jacking on a flat surface, which isn't necessary with a bolt because you can just put the bolt head into the cup of the jack head. Wood has always been the best to resist slipping on a flat surface in my experience.

Unless I have to pull a wheel, I find that ramps are the easiest and quickest for getting under there. I even built my own.

 

[petitevan]

besides referring to the illustration of the undercarriage, i plan to slide a mirror underneath the car to make sure that the floor jack will be pointing at the right location.

Thanks for the visual and reference document.

 

[rholland]

I purchased a car jack adaptor that replaced the conventional flat unit found on most hydraulic jacks. Adaptor fits over the pinchwelds. I also put a piece of cloth to keep the the adaptor and the car from touching each other. Here is the link from the place I purchased.

http://www.eastwood.com/floor-jack-adapter-for-late-model-cars.html

 

[Silentnoise713]

I purchased a car jack adaptor that replaced the conventional flat unit found on most hydraulic jacks. Adaptor fits over the pinchwelds. I also put a piece of cloth to keep the the adaptor and the car from touching each other. Here is the link from the place I purchased.

http://www.eastwood.com/floor-jack-adapter-for-late-model-cars.html

I was wondering if something like this existed but $22 is kind of steep for a simple metal bracket. Are there any concerns with it slipping/tipping over? I also see this as a potential failure point. Also, I wonder what this means..

Use with Jack EW#29724

 

[rholland]

Once you instal in your jack you will see it will not slip, tip or slide at all. Not a place for failure. Just remove your original plate from the jack to measure the size of the hole to make sure it fits with the product. Cost is pretty steep but when I signed up with eastwood they gave on an online coupon for free shipping on your first shipment. Total cost was only the product.

 

[Silentnoise713]

Once you instal in your jack you will see it will not slip, tip or slide at all. Not a place for failure. Just remove your original plate from the jack to measure the size of the hole to make sure it fits with the product. Cost is pretty steep but when I signed up with eastwood they gave on an online coupon for free shipping on your first shipment. Total cost was only the product.

Good to know. If this was $5-$10, I'd be all over it but not $22+s/h. Btw, I came across some post where folks have tried wood blocks with a slit cut through but it ended up cracking –yikes!

I Google around and found these, which are much more reasonable and priced as it should for a piece of metal. It looks similar to the one posted above but only $4.20 ($3.79 if 6+ but site does say wholesale). http://www.dpciwholesale.com/Floor-Jack-Pinch-Weld-Adapter.html

 

[Robotazky]

Good to know. If this was $5-$10, I'd be all over it but not $22+s/h. Btw, I came across some post where folks have tried wood blocks with a slit cut through but it ended up cracking –yikes!

I Google around and found these, which are much more reasonable and priced as it should for a piece of metal. It looks similar to the one posted above but only $4.20 ($3.79 if 6+ but site does say wholesale). http://www.dpciwholesale.com/Floor-Jack-Pinch-Weld-Adapter.html

Um, yeah, the wood blocks splitting is scary. The slit would have to be cut perpendicular to the wood grain or it will easily split. LOL, that's like splitting wood with an ax.

Nice score on posting that part link. That is CHEAP!

 

[Storms]

just want to resurrect this thread...

ive jacked mine up once and used the stock jack.

I tried getting my 'normal' trolley jack to the 'x' where youre supposed to jack but the jack's not long enough or low enough to reach there.. dont want to fork out a fortune on a low profile long reach jack. also if i use the trolley jack near the sills where do you then put the jack stands??

so anyone got any ideas on how i can put it on jack stands using standard trolley jack and standard jack stands??

 

[Silentnoise713]

You can use a normal trolley jack by coming at it from the front wheel well. The gap between the tire and the inner fender liner has just enough space to get you pumping. As the car gets higher, the more area you have to pump with.

 

[Storms]

thanks for that good idea..... will try it