Tried LC and FFS tonight for the 1st time...

[dougefresh_]

I've been gearing up for the track lately, and after the CPE fmic gets installed, and I get her tuned right, that's where I'll be heading. So, I tried out FFS tonight for the first time, and I was like "holy s***!" I couldn't believe how the baa-bahh hiccup in acceleration during a shift is completely eliminated.

So, after my first FFS, I decided it was about time I tried using LC and try out a 0-60 mph time. So, I had LC rev limited set to 4,050 rpms, LC Speed Limited set to 9 mph, and the FFS rev limited set to 6,030 rpms. I was actually pretty psyched with my 0-60mph time (5.37 sec), considering it was my very first launch, and only the second time using FFS. How accurate is this 0-60 time with the DH? Kinda sucks that there's that 2nd shift before 60 mph, lol. I think my FFS Rev Limiter might be a little high... what's the ideal FFS Rev Limiter for my set up?

Thanks!

 

[dougefresh_]

So, I tried out the 1/8th mile time today before the rain fell to check out my 60' time. The first two were a sloppy runs... my 60' times were 2.20 seconds and 2.12 seconds. I had DSC off this time (forgot yesterday w the 0-60 mph, lol), and it took me a couple launches to get the feel of it. I did one 0-60 mph yesterday, and ran it in 5.37 secs.

So, on my 3rd launch, I hit 60' in 1.88 seconds, which was good because I wanted to break 1.9 seconds today. I was also able to hit 60mph in 5.0 seconds flat... I was quite surprised that a decent launch could knock 0.4 secs off the 0-60 mph time. I finished the 1/8th mile in 8.68 second @ 70.84 mph, but I don't remember if I had it floored all the way through the 1/8 mile... I was just trying to get the 60' time. Anyone know what this may translate to for the 1/4 mile? What should I be able to get my 60' time down to with the mods in my sig? (FMIC not yet installed).

Is that right where I left the time bar at 60.3 mph at 5.0 seconds for 0-60mph? I'm assuming it's as accurate as the 0-60mph test (both done with DH), but this was from the 1/8th mile run...

 

[Blendercloud]

My launch control setting is at 4200 revs. It took me about 60 launches to demolish the stock clutch and flywheel. My flat-foot shifting setting is at 5200 revs; which by the time I shift the engine has only decreased to a speed of about 5500 revs.

 

[dougefresh_]

My launch control setting is at 4200 revs. It took me about 60 launches to demolish the stock clutch and flywheel. My flat-foot shifting setting is at 5200 revs; which by the time I shift the engine has only decreased to a speed of about 5500 revs.

Good to know about the 60 launches! I got about 56 left, lol. The clutch TSB was done a few thousand miles ago, but they didn't do the flywheel because they said it was fine. I was bulls***, but that's another story.

I hear you about the FFS revs... there's not enough time for them to drop lower than that anyways between shifts, unless you're shifting early. I feel both are set up pretty good at the moment. I want to nail 1.80 60' consistently before the track... with minimal practice! I'll just have to learn quickly I guess! lol

 

[FORZDA 1]

Hmmmm, I'm not sure why you guys are setting the FFS rpm lower than your actual shift rpm. I suppose it depends on what you want FFS to do for you. If you just want to shift quickly with minimal impact on the trans, then lower is fine. However, if you want FFS to help the car be quicker, the FFS rpm should be a bit higher than your shift rpm. FFS just keeps the engine from banging the normal rev limiter IF you miss the shift. The point (IMO) of FFS is to keep the pedal down and get into the next gear and back to max acceleration ASAP.

If you keep the revs UP, when you hit the next gear you get a boost(no pun intended) in acceleration as the flywheel inertia is fed into the trans as the clutch engages. I have my limits set accordingly and get "real" quick 0-60 and 1/4 et without huge power:


FFS Rev limit= 6700
Norm Rev limit= 7200
LC Rev limit= 4600

 

[Blendercloud]

My 4200, 5200, and 6500 limiters are pretty conservative. This is how my Nova was set up for the track, but it's also naturally aspirated which changes everything. I'm inclined to try your settings Forzda. Only three more weeks til the next track day!

 

[FORZDA 1]

My 4200, 5200, and 6500 limiters are pretty conservative. This is how my Nova was set up for the track, but it's also naturally aspirated which changes everything. I'm inclined to try your settings Forzda. Only three more weeks til the next track day!

You WILL be pleased with the result.(cool) However, the LC rpm will put MAX load into the diff mount/axle, so no complaints if it breaks!(evil)

 

[Blendercloud]

You WILL be pleased with the result.(cool) However, the LC rpm will put MAX load into the diff mount/axle, so no complaints if it breaks!(evil)

Yea, the front axles are BEEFY; but those rear axles are definitely less than what I expected. We shall see!

(headbang)

 

[dougefresh_]

My 4200, 5200, and 6500 limiters are pretty conservative. This is how my Nova was set up for the track, but it's also naturally aspirated which changes everything. I'm inclined to try your settings Forzda. Only three more weeks til the next track day!

Cool! I had a built 71 Nova SS 396 back in the day! Fast and Deadly, lol.

However, if you want FFS to help the car be quicker, the FFS rpm should be a bit higher than your shift rpm. FFS just keeps the engine from banging the normal rev limiter IF you miss the shift. The point (IMO) of FFS is to keep the pedal down and get into the next gear and back to max acceleration ASAP.

If you keep the revs UP, when you hit the next gear you get a boost(no pun intended) in acceleration as the flywheel inertia is fed into the trans as the clutch engages. I have my limits set accordingly and get "real" quick 0-60 and 1/4 et without huge power:


FFS Rev limit= 6700
Norm Rev limit= 7200
LC Rev limit= 4600

You said above you should set your FFS rpms to be a bit higher than your normal rev limiter, but yours above is not.. typo? I thought that the FFS rev limiter kept the tach from dropping to x rpms during shifts. I would ideally want it to drop to where the next gear hooks up.. like 4,500rpms or so, but I guess this is not how it works? I'll have to read up on it now :/
Also, whatever way you set it, it will save you a ton of time as it's well, FFS, but also because it eleminates that slight hesitation you normally get between shifts without it.

Also, I have no TT rear diff front mount... just the CPE rear diff and SU bone mount. Should I have any concerns with the stock front mount and launching? I figure all the weight is being transferred to the back, so it shouldn't matter as much.

 

[FORZDA 1]

.....You said above you should set your FFS rpms to be a bit higher than your normal rev limiter, but yours above is not.. typo?

No typo, I said to set it higher than SHIFT rpm.....

thought that the FFS rev limiter kept the tach from dropping to x rpms during shifts.

It really keeps the engine from going ABOVE or below the set rpm.

Also, I have no TT rear diff front mount... just the CPE rear diff and SU bone mount. Should I have any concerns with the stock front mount and launching? I figure all the weight is being transferred to the back, so it shouldn't matter as much.

I sold my TT diff mount without installing it because I felt it not necessary if you have the rear diff mount and you have maintained the diff side bolts. I DO recommend the TT front engine mount though. The drivetrain of the car wants to exit the front of the car under WOT, so the mounts keep it IN the bay rather than ahead of it! Without it (the TT front MM) the rear engine mount will twist as the engine pulls against the driver side front and rear mounts. Next time under your car, look at the side plate for the rear MM after these hard lauches. It will be bent.

Now, you could run the AWR left/right motor mounts and be assured the engine doesn't move, but every tiny vibration in the entire drivetrain will be fed into the car..... I have them as well, but not installed. IMO, they are for track use only....

 

[dougefresh_]

I sold my TT diff mount without installing it because I felt it not necessary if you have the rear diff mount and you have maintained the diff side bolts. I DO recommend the TT front engine mount though. The drivetrain of the car wants to exit the front of the car under WOT, so the mounts keep it IN the bay rather than ahead of it! Without it (the TT front MM) the rear engine mount will twist as the engine pulls against the driver side front and rear mounts. Next time under your car, look at the side plate for the rear MM after these hard lauches. It will be bent.

Now, you could run the AWR left/right motor mounts and be assured the engine doesn't move, but every tiny vibration in the entire drivetrain will be fed into the car..... I have them as well, but not installed. IMO, they are for track use only....

That is good to know, thank you! Too bad the mount is like $300 new, and a pita to install! lol I heard the vibs with the TT FEM are pretty bad... I guess it varies though. What should I do in the meantime (like the next 12 months, lol)? Hope for the best? What is the worst that can happen without the TTFEM?

PS. You better get installing those parts

 

[FORZDA 1]

That is good to know, thank you! Too bad the mount is like $300 new, and a pita to install! lol I heard the vibs with the TT FEM are pretty bad... I guess it varies though. What should I do in the meantime (like the next 12 months, lol)? Hope for the best? What is the worst that can happen without the TTFEM?

PS. You better get installing those parts

Another Speed6 guy from VA Beach (TheMarsVolta) came out to the house for a "consult" yesterday and wanted to check out the vibs associated with the mounts. So, after we went over his car for his questions, we took a couple of WOT blasts in my car and he says the vibs are nothing above idle and wants the mounts ASAP. I told everyone that, but no one ever believes me.... The main problem for the mounts is the person installing them, IMO....

In the mean time, just live with it and save your cash quickly! The worst that can happen is very, very, very, bad, as in your engine can outrun the car....., but unlikely! JK, sort of...... The passenger MM takes the abuse and will fail soon(er).

 

[dougefresh_]

Another Speed6 guy from VA Beach came out to the house for a "consult" yesterday and wanted to check out the vibs associated with the mounts. So, after we went over his car for his questions, we took a couple of WOT blasts in my car and he says the vibs are nothing above idle and wants the mounts ASAP. I told everyone that, but no one ever believes me.... The main problem for the mounts is the person installing them, IMO....

In the mean time, just live with it and save your cash quickly! The worst that can happen is very, very, very, bad, as in your engine can outrun the car....., but unlikely! JK, sort of...... The passenger MM takes the abuse and will fail soon(er).

LOL, if my engine crosses the finish line first, will that shave a 1/10th off my 1/4, or does that disqualify me? haha. My current mounts don't bother me at all, and have minimal vibs with them. However, a buddy got in the car, and was like "dude your car vibrates and s***." lol Above idle isn't bad... what about cruising for you? For some reason, I get vibs (similar to my idle vibs) when I'm cruising at like 35-40mph, but I think it may be the dual GHL exhaust.

I noticed when that went in (and not mounts) it would rattle plastic cups in the cupholders when cruising around. I think the mounts maybe exasperated that and the TP. Def want to keep it as a comfy DD. I don't FFS that hard normally, but I don't want costly problems. And I have no cash to save, but will hopefully have a good amount next year. My funds are going 3071 baby! Maybe 3076 if Skates tries a little harder to convince me, lol.