505's Clocked 28RS + MSP WGA (redeux)

[505zoom]

Just wanted to post up some pics since I was working on this over the past week. Hope it might help anyone that wants to do something similar to this.

I fixed a couple issues that arose from the original way that I did the WGA bracket, and everything is super solid and proper now. We also improved my downpipe while I had it off the car, but I should save that for a different thread.

The jist of this setup is to shorten the piping to the IC while eliminating a couple 90's. Side benefit is no more pipe running either right in front of the manifold, or looping all over the place like they do on some of these FMIC kits. Using the MSP can instead of the 28RS can allows you to run lower boost should the need arise.

As they say, the pics are worth a thousand words, so I will hop to it. Fire away with any questions.

Soundclip running 10 spike - 8.5 hold:

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A couple notes to close:

- This setup runs 5-6psi when not using a boost controller.

- The clearance is tight in a few spots. The heatshield on the WGA almost hits the hard coolant pipe that runs between it and the block. The coolant lines to the turbo are super tight around the comp housing. The charge piping sits pretty close to the downpipe... about 3/4".

- The path from the turbo to the IC is less than a foot and a half. (rockon)

 

[ueat1023]

Just wanted to post up some pics since I was working on this over the past week. Hope it might help anyone that wants to do something similar to this.

I fixed a couple issues that arose from the original way that I did the WGA bracket, and everything is super solid and proper now. We also improved my downpipe while I had it off the car, but I should save that for a different thread.

The jist of this setup is to shorten the piping to the IC while eliminating a couple 90's. Side benefit is no more pipe running either right in front of the manifold, or looping all over the place like they do on some of these FMIC kits. Using the MSP can instead of the 28RS can allows you to run lower boost should the need arise.

As they say, the pics are worth a thousand words, so I will hop to it. Fire away with any questions.

A couple notes to close:

- This setup runs 5-6psi when not using a boost controller.

- The clearance is tight in a few spots. The heatshield on the WGA almost hits the hard coolant pipe that runs between it and the block. The coolant lines to the turbo are super tight around the comp housing. The charge piping sits pretty close to the downpipe... about 3/4".

- The path from the turbo to the IC is less than a foot and a half. (rockon)

The only 3in dp in the universe ..lol let pope540 borrow it or me

 

[yudkib]

yeah i had to resist the urge to ask about the downpipe. post up another thread on that haha

 

[BadBandar]

Nice 505. that dp and header look sick! I like how its clocked downward.

 

[ueat1023]

Egr Set up nice is it fully flexible?

 

[Velocifero]

Hey Rich, I assume you don't like it running across the mani due to heat. How does the distance from the DP to the charge pipe effected by temp? About same as when it ran in front of the mani or do you think it'll see a cooler charge? Not that it's going to be that "much" of a difference but I guess some folks count every degree.

 

[StealthWyvern]

Hey Rich, I assume you don't like it running across the mani due to heat. How does the distance from the DP to the charge pipe effected by temp? About same as when it ran in front of the mani or do you think it'll see a cooler charge? Not that it's going to be that "much" of a difference but I guess some folks count every degree.

I was woundering the same thing!


Edit: He could wrap both the DP and the hot pipe to reduce the amount of heat soak.

 

[505zoom]

The only 3in dp in the universe ..lol let pope540 borrow it or me

Haha. Sorry bud, but I needz it.

yeah i had to resist the urge to ask about the downpipe. post up another thread on that haha

Quick dp cliffs til new thread:

First thread about my downpipe was back in like early-mid 05... too lazy to search for it right now but it's here somewhere.

I had the dp off while fixing the WG and compressor housing stuff, so I had my new welding/fab guy fix some of the original creators' shortcomings. It's pretty much as good as it gets now. I can't imagine improving on it in any way without removing the A/C.

Nice 505. that dp and header look sick! I like how its clocked downward.

Thanks.

Egr Set up nice is it fully flexible?

Yup fully flexible. (naughty)

Hey Rich, I assume you don't like it running across the mani due to heat. How does the distance from the DP to the charge pipe effected by temp? About same as when it ran in front of the mani or do you think it'll see a cooler charge? Not that it's going to be that "much" of a difference but I guess some folks count every degree.

I can't imagine there's much difference, but it's probably there to some extent. My old iON piping was ultra close to the mani. The MAM piping wasn't much further. It's really tough to say for sure without any data, but it makes sense in my mind that this setup runs a little cooler at the IC inlet. After that it's kinda like debating CAI vs SRI... In my case with the thumper IC, I imagine it probably swallows up most of the difference anyway.

Regardless, it's still cool to set things up the best way possible. Even when it's "overkill".

(spin)

I was woundering the same thing!


Edit: He could wrap both the DP and the hot pipe to reduce the amount of heat soak.

Wrapping or ceramic coating the dp = good.
Using heatshield between dp and IC pipe = good.
Fully wrapping the aluminum hot side charge piping = not so good.

Many will debate me on this... but I aint changing my stance. Aluminum dissipates heat very well, and the air coming out of the compressor is very hot. Trapping it, rather than letting it dissipate, is counterproductive to the end goal of max cooling post-turbo. Again we are talking about differences on the anal level. Real world results probably won't show much difference in temps measured at the TB.

 

[XxaltezzaxX]

i want that down pipe.

 

[SeR_Cyclops]

The new set up looks Great Rich!!!

 

[yudkib]

so thats a full 3" DP without relocating... well, anything? geez. talk about an in-demand component there. the people demand answers, especially pope i'm sure.

 

[43975]

I can't wait to get home and see the pics, (stupid work computer), My fmic kit is the 1st gen MAM that was originally designed for the P5 kit which mounted the turbo clocked down. When we installed the GT28RS I didn't have this kit in yet so I had to fab it to mount the stock route by adding 2 90* couplers and about a foot more piping.
How did you go about actually clocking the gt28rs. I tried to clock the stock turbo sitting on my shelf and could not for the life of me free that c-clamp. I heard the GT28RS could either be rotated via the c-clamp or some bolts??

 

[BadBandar]

I got a question. Are u still running with the stock block/internals?

 

[SeR_Cyclops]

Yeah, stock block and stock head.

 

[sephiroth]

I thought I had it bad.. but WOW, radiator hose/ compressor side placement really does suck with BT. you think you'll look into gold foil wrap or some kind of heat deflection in the future?

 

[505zoom]

i want that down pipe.

Haha... it's funny/awesome how times change. Everybody has a big ol chubby for this downpipe now, but when it was made people just flamed. Back then, everyone was more than happy to use the inferior divorced style (GHL, iON) instead of paying 100-150 extra for this style. Pretty sure that Beau only made 1 other one besides mine... not sure who ended up with it.

The new set up looks Great Rich!!!

Thanks Keith. Turned out alright eh?

so thats a full 3" DP without relocating... well, anything? geez. talk about an in-demand component there. the people demand answers, especially pope i'm sure.

Yup it is definitely a sweet piece. If the people want answers, I need questions. lol.

I can't wait to get home and see the pics, (stupid work computer), My fmic kit is the 1st gen MAM that was originally designed for the P5 kit which mounted the turbo clocked down. When we installed the GT28RS I didn't have this kit in yet so I had to fab it to mount the stock route by adding 2 90* couplers and about a foot more piping.
How did you go about actually clocking the gt28rs. I tried to clock the stock turbo sitting on my shelf and could not for the life of me free that c-clamp. I heard the GT28RS could either be rotated via the c-clamp or some bolts??

Stocker uses that nasty c-clamp. 28RS uses 6 bolts. Piece of cake to spin it.

 

[505zoom]

I got a question. Are u still running with the stock block/internals?

(rei)

you think you'll look into gold foil wrap or some kind of heat deflection in the future?

Most likely.

 

[yudkib]

Back then, everyone was more than happy to use the inferior divorced style (GHL, iON) instead of paying 100-150 extra for this style.

100-150 OVER the GHL? eek... suddenly i lost a lot of interest. all i can find for a price on the GHL is 675, and theres no way id pay 800 bucks for an s/j pipe no matter how awesome.
by the way update your build thread sometime. its well put together and i think is the only one which still has stock internals. its in my bookmarks haha

 

[sandspeed]

Dood!! looking awesome richman! I see what you meant about the downpipe. I'm sooo psyched to see dyno numbers and you weren't kidding about the insane sound the intake mani makes too..haha. "Whooosh

 

[malcantry]

What is the size of piping/tubing did you use for the manifold and what size plate did you use for the block flange. did you use 304 or 304L? Piping or Tubing? Seamless or welded? Is it Chinese?