I didnt mean to give off a malicious tone, maybe you arent either. The internet is a pretty bad way to express thoughts. Anyway, I spent the money on a cpe nano so its all good.
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Finally getting a Forge
- Thread starter BrianFiebig
- Start date
I didnt mean to give off a malicious tone, maybe you arent either. The internet is a pretty bad way to express thoughts. Anyway, I spent the money on a cpe nano so its all good.
detonnation
Member
What is the advantage of going from a Yellow spring to blue with shims? What does it mean for the Turbo?
Thanks.
Mike
Thanks.
Mike
Last edited:
BrianFiebig
Member
- :
- 08 SPEED 3
OK, it arrived today (HOLY GOD! 3 freaking days from HAWAII and it took UPS 8 to get my CAI from Cali...I LOVE USPS!). Came installed with Blue. Ill roll with that, probably thru the meet on the 6th, and then if its doing alright keep it, if not, fiddle with shims.
Thanks for all the votes all.
Thanks for all the votes all.
ok ordering mine tonight, and since I had the last forge, my car has changed a bit. I have turbo xs catless stealthback, racing beat catback, cobb sri, medieval turbo inlet, su boost tubes, one step colder plugs, and then now the forge. What setup should I run? blue with 0, 1, or 2 shims??
ok ordering mine tonight, and since I had the last forge, my car has changed a bit. I have turbo xs catless stealthback, racing beat catback, cobb sri, medieval turbo inlet, su boost tubes, one step colder plugs, and then now the forge. What setup should I run? blue with 0, 1, or 2 shims??
don't take this as gospel, but i've always read the more mods = more stiffness, so blue w/ at leat 1 shim, check it out & then mebbe add another shim.
see i tried blue with no shims, blue with 1 and blue with 2 when I had it before and all I had was modded stock exhaust, test pipe and injen intake. My mods have changed a good amount since then. I really didnt notice a whole hell of alot of difference. I just don't know how to tell which one is really doing the best for the car. Is there any signs or indicators on how the car runs that will show us which is best?
see i tried blue with no shims, blue with 1 and blue with 2 when I had it before and all I had was modded stock exhaust, test pipe and injen intake. My mods have changed a good amount since then. I really didnt notice a whole hell of alot of difference. I just don't know how to tell which one is really doing the best for the car. Is there any signs or indicators on how the car runs that will show us which is best?
hold up your getting another forge? didnt you say you were embarassed to drive around with the sound of it and swapped to an HKS? Just curious bro
edit***** I saw yoru post in the for sale section about the HKS breaking, damn that sucks dude! I didnt think there was a diaphragm in the HKS that could break, I thought it was a solid unit! Too bad you dont have the greddy still.
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detonnation
Member
idk.. everyone is making a big deal about the sound, but its not that loud and it doesnt sound half bad. Who cares what others think , as long as your happy. I like it, though was initially saying wtf pre experience with all the comments
BrianFiebig
Member
- :
- 08 SPEED 3
OK, Forge installed, blue spring no shim.
Took about 15 minutes, had to wrestle with the big pipe to get it lined up right, and I'm NOT happy about the way it is in there. Is the Forge rotateable about the mount/flange? I know the top part with the thin nipple is, but I would REALLY like to rotate the bigger pipe about 15* to make it a straighter shot into the return pipe.
ALSO....HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend replaceing the crap compression clip doodads with screw type clamps. The one for the small nipple only holds the tube on there because Forge saw fit to flange the nipple, it slid all over the place with no pressure and probably rubs when the pressure fluxes.
Now, my spino-dyno is damaged, and weapons grade anti-inflammatories have reduced the sensitivity of the instruments, but I would not be shocked to see increased power across the band, with a possible increase in peak. Why do I say this?
In the week I had the CAI on with the stock BPV, the sounds from the intake sounded different then they do now. For starters, you could hear the suction start to build at about 2K, depending on gear, load, throttle pressure, ambient noise (my stereo has only two settings, off and f*ckin' loud) etc. But even my wife said that the sound changed pitch and frequency at about 2750. Now, it stays the some frequency, just getting louder as the turbo spools, with an undertone of compressor whine starting at about 3500. The mid-range hiccup is also gone, only noticable after sitting at a light for a while, meaning its the computer retarding spark due to heatsoak (the penny jar is refilling for a FMIC). But otherwise, even at part throttle, the acceleration is a bit more aggressive.
Now, the sound. I dont see what the big deal is. Sure, there is a metallic quality to the release sound, but its not a ping, or swords clashing, or Mario ganking a coin. Its more of a metallic whistle, like a metal ball in a plastic whistle. And its over in a heartbeat. Best off all, if you listen carefully, you can hear the released air chuff back into the system right before the main release, its almost like a three part sound, huff-WHOOSH-tinkSHHH.
All in all, I couldnt be happier once I replace the crap-o-rama clamps with some real ones, and get the IC cover shaved down a little so it doesnt chip and shave itself to death on the CAI return pipe.
EDIT/PS: OI! Whats the diameter of those hoses so when I go to Autozone tomorrow I get the right size the FIRST time?
EDIT #2: Oh yeah....Pictures coming...the built in 13-in-1 card reader on my computer has given up the ghost after 3 years of little use.
Took about 15 minutes, had to wrestle with the big pipe to get it lined up right, and I'm NOT happy about the way it is in there. Is the Forge rotateable about the mount/flange? I know the top part with the thin nipple is, but I would REALLY like to rotate the bigger pipe about 15* to make it a straighter shot into the return pipe.
ALSO....HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend replaceing the crap compression clip doodads with screw type clamps. The one for the small nipple only holds the tube on there because Forge saw fit to flange the nipple, it slid all over the place with no pressure and probably rubs when the pressure fluxes.
Now, my spino-dyno is damaged, and weapons grade anti-inflammatories have reduced the sensitivity of the instruments, but I would not be shocked to see increased power across the band, with a possible increase in peak. Why do I say this?
In the week I had the CAI on with the stock BPV, the sounds from the intake sounded different then they do now. For starters, you could hear the suction start to build at about 2K, depending on gear, load, throttle pressure, ambient noise (my stereo has only two settings, off and f*ckin' loud) etc. But even my wife said that the sound changed pitch and frequency at about 2750. Now, it stays the some frequency, just getting louder as the turbo spools, with an undertone of compressor whine starting at about 3500. The mid-range hiccup is also gone, only noticable after sitting at a light for a while, meaning its the computer retarding spark due to heatsoak (the penny jar is refilling for a FMIC). But otherwise, even at part throttle, the acceleration is a bit more aggressive.
Now, the sound. I dont see what the big deal is. Sure, there is a metallic quality to the release sound, but its not a ping, or swords clashing, or Mario ganking a coin. Its more of a metallic whistle, like a metal ball in a plastic whistle. And its over in a heartbeat. Best off all, if you listen carefully, you can hear the released air chuff back into the system right before the main release, its almost like a three part sound, huff-WHOOSH-tinkSHHH.
All in all, I couldnt be happier once I replace the crap-o-rama clamps with some real ones, and get the IC cover shaved down a little so it doesnt chip and shave itself to death on the CAI return pipe.
EDIT/PS: OI! Whats the diameter of those hoses so when I go to Autozone tomorrow I get the right size the FIRST time?
EDIT #2: Oh yeah....Pictures coming...the built in 13-in-1 card reader on my computer has given up the ghost after 3 years of little use.
Last edited:
detonnation
Member
Mine fit into the big OEM pipe perfect. You are saying yours didnt line up? hmm... Not sure of the small diameter pipe size. I know the ones at the wastegate are 5/32 But I think the small one going to the BPV is bigger, maybe 1/4?
hold up your getting another forge? didnt you say you were embarassed to drive around with the sound of it and swapped to an HKS? Just curious bro
edit***** I saw yoru post in the for sale section about the HKS breaking, damn that sucks dude! I didnt think there was a diaphragm in the HKS that could break, I thought it was a solid unit! Too bad you dont have the greddy still.
Well i heard a guy locally...his car has a forge with a rpmc inlet on it, man it sounded alot better than just the forge with an intake. I have a medieval inlet now, so I am giving it another shot. Plus my ricer days are over, I am going with performance over sound and the forge delivers just that. I performed at its best when I had the forge. My car is set up alot differently compared to when I first did the forge. Yeah the plastic round piece in the top of the blow off valve where the recirc or vta piece goes in that keeps air from escaping broke off. When I start the car, and it idles, it stumbles and dies. I don't know how it happened, but I bought it used, so it could have been a problem before then.
Well i heard a guy locally...his car has a forge with a rpmc inlet on it, man it sounded alot better than just the forge with an intake. I have a medieval inlet now, so I am giving it another shot. Plus my ricer days are over, I am going with performance over sound and the forge delivers just that. I performed at its best when I had the forge. My car is set up alot differently compared to when I first did the forge. Yeah the plastic round piece in the top of the blow off valve where the recirc or vta piece goes in that keeps air from escaping broke off. When I start the car, and it idles, it stumbles and dies. I don't know how it happened, but I bought it used, so it could have been a problem before then.
thats unfortunate, I have a used HKS as well and that would suck to see that happen. I didnt realize what the symptoms were so i figured I would ask you so I could check if mine was leaking. If your car dies from the leaking valve and my car isnt like that then my valve is fine. I only find that mine doesnt seem to hold all the time, it leaks out if floored for a while. But I hardly ever floor it, so the few hp loss doesn;t bother to me if the sound is there.
yeah see mine would leak too when i had it floored. My boost wouldn't spike any higher than 15 and would settle at 10-11 lbs. It was weaksauce. Put the stock valve back on, HELLO boost!
a local member here had an HKS and had the same thing happen to him, I didnt believe him since I thought the HKS was a solid unit and didnt have any diaphragms like the greddy. Well hopefully that forge works well for you. I wouldnt mind hearing one to see how it sounds at least. Hey since I havent seen any videos of this (at least i havent found any) I would like to hear the forge in VTA if possible. Not sure if you can take a video of that sometime.
patty AT forge
Member
The valve body can be rotated, you will need to loosen the locking ring on the bottom side of the flange with a pair of c-clip pliers or needle nosed pliers. Make sure you tighten it fully after clocking it where you need to be.
A zip tie will work on the manifold reference hose and we include a new 40mm hose clmap for the recirc tube.
A zip tie will work on the manifold reference hose and we include a new 40mm hose clmap for the recirc tube.
OK, Forge installed, blue spring no shim.
Took about 15 minutes, had to wrestle with the big pipe to get it lined up right, and I'm NOT happy about the way it is in there. Is the Forge rotateable about the mount/flange? I know the top part with the thin nipple is, but I would REALLY like to rotate the bigger pipe about 15* to make it a straighter shot into the return pipe.
ALSO....HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend replaceing the crap compression clip doodads with screw type clamps. The one for the small nipple only holds the tube on there because Forge saw fit to flange the nipple, it slid all over the place with no pressure and probably rubs when the pressure fluxes.
Now, my spino-dyno is damaged, and weapons grade anti-inflammatories have reduced the sensitivity of the instruments, but I would not be shocked to see increased power across the band, with a possible increase in peak. Why do I say this?
In the week I had the CAI on with the stock BPV, the sounds from the intake sounded different then they do now. For starters, you could hear the suction start to build at about 2K, depending on gear, load, throttle pressure, ambient noise (my stereo has only two settings, off and f*ckin' loud) etc. But even my wife said that the sound changed pitch and frequency at about 2750. Now, it stays the some frequency, just getting louder as the turbo spools, with an undertone of compressor whine starting at about 3500. The mid-range hiccup is also gone, only noticable after sitting at a light for a while, meaning its the computer retarding spark due to heatsoak (the penny jar is refilling for a FMIC). But otherwise, even at part throttle, the acceleration is a bit more aggressive.
Now, the sound. I dont see what the big deal is. Sure, there is a metallic quality to the release sound, but its not a ping, or swords clashing, or Mario ganking a coin. Its more of a metallic whistle, like a metal ball in a plastic whistle. And its over in a heartbeat. Best off all, if you listen carefully, you can hear the released air chuff back into the system right before the main release, its almost like a three part sound, huff-WHOOSH-tinkSHHH.
All in all, I couldnt be happier once I replace the crap-o-rama clamps with some real ones, and get the IC cover shaved down a little so it doesnt chip and shave itself to death on the CAI return pipe.
EDIT/PS: OI! Whats the diameter of those hoses so when I go to Autozone tomorrow I get the right size the FIRST time?
patty AT forge
Member
a local member here had an HKS and had the same thing happen to him, I didnt believe him since I thought the HKS was a solid unit and didnt have any diaphragms like the greddy. Well hopefully that forge works well for you. I wouldnt mind hearing one to see how it sounds at least. Hey since I havent seen any videos of this (at least i havent found any) I would like to hear the forge in VTA if possible. Not sure if you can take a video of that sometime.
You can't run the Forge recirc valve in VTA, for that you will need FMDVMAZ301, which is our atmospheric valve for the car.
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