I've made custom exhaust in my msp'03. It looks like this, straight 2.5" Stainless steel (acid-proof) form j-pipe to Racing-Beat muffler, no catalic converters. There is problem with o2 sensor but i will emulate it with Schottky diode. Also ther is custom intake with ITG foam filter. And there's problem, I deinstall MBC to see boost and what was my suprise when I saw 9-10PSI. Ass you know with that boost ecu take boost cut near 3000-4000rpm. Instaling MBC take no differenc. What can i do with home made method to take out boost-cut??
To much boost
- Thread starter pinky
- Start date
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
you can get a fuel cut defender, but I'd suggest a new WGA...
MSpeedFreak03
Member
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- 2003 MSP
A WASTE GATE ACCUATOR... thats your best bet
Wagonbacker9
Member
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- 2004 'Hoe
if you put in a fuel cut defender, you're basically asking to overboost at some point... then you lean out, and join the zoom zoom boom club... its not very elite, and every member is a little more pissy than they were before they became a member. lol.. not exactly a club you want to join if you know what I mean.
4
43975
I don't believe in the fuel cut defender one bit. I think it's a band aid fix for a wound that may need stitches. Figure out why your getting fuel cut and fix that instead. I'm almost 100% positive it's your WGA, pick up a Forge or ATP and call it a day. Your fuel cut should be gone, as well as your over boosting...You may still boost 9-10 with the Forge unit since the spring allows 10 unless you set in lower, the ATP should only net you 6-7 PSI
Wagonbacker9
Member
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- 2004 'Hoe
there is plenty of bad feedback about the forge, but I have to wonder if its improper installation, adjustment, or actually the part itself... for simplicity sake (and cost), I'm leaning toward the ATP myself.
MSpeedFreak03
Member
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- 2003 MSP
ATP FTMFW bro
slo03.5msp
Member
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- 03.5 yellow msp
I used the joe p fcd for years at about 12lbs of boost. Never any problems untuned of course.
4
43975
The ATP vs Forge debate has been beat to death, For me Forge was the unit of choice due to the adjustability, and the fact that it's rebuildable. The ATP only has a 20K mile life, and a set PSI of 6. Once I added mods and a split second I wanted to run a bit higher boost closer to 10 off the WGA. A boost controller would void the warranty.
slo03.5msp
Member
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- 03.5 yellow msp
Zulu but boost conntrollers are so much fun. One minute it's stock 8lbs the next it's 12 and 14-16. It just makes the driving experience more fun. You can uninstall them in a matter of moments.
is that an ATP claim?
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
I believe thats the shortest life someone has gotten out of them. I know rush was running one for a WHILE, I belive on the whole, they are more reliable than stock.
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43975
Bill you know I'm too chicken to push my motor as far as you have. especially with this turbo. Once we get the Split Second on, I'm going to turn it up a little, but can't risk blowing the motor until after the wedding. My plan is to get my samurai with the new boosted motor up and running, then I can start taking risks with the MSP, since I'll have a solid back up car.
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
so what are your impressions of the forge wga?
Ok, thanks for advise. I found forge WGA in poland but any of them are strickly specified to msp, can you tell me which will fit into stock turbo: forge wga re5pect. I've got some questions, is there posibility that boost-cut is becouse there is an air leak somewhere in intake?? On this weekend hardpipes to stock IC will show on on car where to install exit for BOV before throttle (5-8in ??) and where to put pipe from "cylinder head" before or after BOV or maybe after turbo??
4
43975
Wagonbacker9: when it was first installed I was having a hell of a time keeptng the boost down, turns out we had the spring inside too tight, after I loosened it the boost came down to a safer 6 psi. I like that it's adjustable, by just swapping the spring inside. It also adds a little bling to the bay. I was having an issue holding boost but have come to the realization that it's the BOV causing me to not hold boost, and not the WGA
Pinky: I'm really not sure what your trying to say, but if I get the jist of it, your going to be installing a BOV and hard pipes and want to know where to put the BOV...If that is what you are asking I suggest you relocate your MAF to the cold pipe and install the BOV on the hot pipe. If you install the BOV in the cold pipe....or on any pipe behind the MAF for that matter, your going to stall out the car, because your venting air that the MAF already told the computer is there, and is no longer there.
Pinky: I'm really not sure what your trying to say, but if I get the jist of it, your going to be installing a BOV and hard pipes and want to know where to put the BOV...If that is what you are asking I suggest you relocate your MAF to the cold pipe and install the BOV on the hot pipe. If you install the BOV in the cold pipe....or on any pipe behind the MAF for that matter, your going to stall out the car, because your venting air that the MAF already told the computer is there, and is no longer there.
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
Which spring are you running now? I'm thinking I'm going to swap my WGA when I put in my FMIC in a couple months or so.. probably put in a boost gauge and swap all the vac lines at the same time. but I'm a little nervous about changing that many parts at once, and praying I don't screw anything up, as diagnosing problems will be 5 times harder.
and to pinky, that would be my exact recommendation, and precisely what I plan to do.
4
43975
I'm running the green spring it's the 5-10 psi spring
Wagonbacker9
Member
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- 2004 'Hoe
so then you just adjust the turbuckle to move within that range...
