GT3071R Bolt On Turbo Kit for Mazdaspeed 3

[mrlilguy157]

42-45% dutycycle is just about maxed out on a direct injection engine. You can only inject during intake and compression, so 50% is all you get. (freak)

i'll post a response to this later. i'm in class at the moment.

 

[trufanatic]

i'll post a response to this later. i'm in class at the moment.

im waiting for this one.... i for one didnt agree 100% with the previous statement

for reference:

http://cars.about.com/od/thingsyouneedtoknow/a/directinjection.htm

 

[ericrapp]

42-45% dutycycle is just about maxed out on a direct injection engine. You can only inject during intake and compression, so 50% is all you get. (freak)

That is one I'll need to to see myself. You might well be correct.

 

[palerider]

i'll post a response to this later. i'm in class at the moment.

well?(cricket)

 

[Rotus8]

i'll post a response to this later. i'm in class at the moment.

I'm ready for this too. I have been wrong before...

 

[winniep]

OK, in which case the dealer will NOT fix my smokescreen issue, somebody chime in and let me know of ANYTHING else I will need to make this car tunable to DD status. I will go pretty conservative on the tune as well.

GT 3071 bolt on turbo
Corksport downpipe (have)
Corksport midpipe (have)
CDFP
Xcede PnP (since Cobb will drag their feet on the tuning software...)
3" turbo inlet
ATP SRI (shame my Cobb won't work with inlet, I love that intake)
Aftermarket BPV (have)
ETS 3.5" TMIC (have and hoping it will work until I can afford a FMIC)
oil catch can
boost gauge (have)
AEM wideband
A good dyno session with a reputable tuner

Am I missing something? I am hoping that I can limp it to the tuner without hitting boost and be OK. If this is not the case, I'm sure I can round up a truck and trailer. Like I said, I REALLY hope my dealer will work with me, but you know how that goes. I am assuming that the smoking turbo won't hurt to be on the car another 3 months or so, because that is the time frame I am looking at to have all of these parts in my garage. I can take 3 months of getting laughed at at stoplights...........

 

[winniep]

And while I'm at it, I will go ahead and throw in a PG turbo manifold. When I am done with the install, I won't EVER want to remove all of that crap again. Although, the Corksport DP will be MUCH easier to remove than the stocker was.

 

[trufanatic]

OK, in which case the dealer will NOT fix my smokescreen issue, somebody chime in and let me know of ANYTHING else I will need to make this car tunable to DD status. I will go pretty conservative on the tune as well.

GT 3071 bolt on turbo
Corksport downpipe (have)
Corksport midpipe (have)
CDFP
Xcede PnP (since Cobb will drag their feet on the tuning software...)
3" turbo inlet
ATP SRI (shame my Cobb won't work with inlet, I love that intake)
Aftermarket BPV (have)
ETS 3.5" TMIC (have and hoping it will work until I can afford a FMIC)
oil catch can
boost gauge (have)
AEM wideband
A good dyno session with a reputable tuner

Am I missing something? I am hoping that I can limp it to the tuner without hitting boost and be OK. If this is not the case, I'm sure I can round up a truck and trailer. Like I said, I REALLY hope my dealer will work with me, but you know how that goes. I am assuming that the smoking turbo won't hurt to be on the car another 3 months or so, because that is the time frame I am looking at to have all of these parts in my garage. I can take 3 months of getting laughed at at stoplights...........

you should be more than set with what you have listed above and the good thing is you already have the important parts.

to start off: manifold, turbo, downpipe/midpipe and a decent intake is what you'll need

 

[TRSpeed3]

OK, in which case the dealer will NOT fix my smokescreen issue, somebody chime in and let me know of ANYTHING else I will need to make this car tunable to DD status. I will go pretty conservative on the tune as well.

GT 3071 bolt on turbo
Corksport downpipe (have)
Corksport midpipe (have)
CDFP
Xcede PnP (since Cobb will drag their feet on the tuning software...)
3" turbo inlet
ATP SRI (shame my Cobb won't work with inlet, I love that intake)
Aftermarket BPV (have)
ETS 3.5" TMIC (have and hoping it will work until I can afford a FMIC)
oil catch can
boost gauge (have)
AEM wideband
A good dyno session with a reputable tuner

Am I missing something? I am hoping that I can limp it to the tuner without hitting boost and be OK. If this is not the case, I'm sure I can round up a truck and trailer. Like I said, I REALLY hope my dealer will work with me, but you know how that goes. I am assuming that the smoking turbo won't hurt to be on the car another 3 months or so, because that is the time frame I am looking at to have all of these parts in my garage. I can take 3 months of getting laughed at at stoplights...........

your missing CBE/Pistons/Rods/clutch/head stud kit/manifold/colder plugs

 

[exxed]

your missing CBE/Pistons/Rods/clutch/head stud kit/manifold/colder plugs

I think the point is to see if the stock block can handle this kind of power. If it can, ProtegeGarage is going to get rich.

 

[northmiler89]

I think the point is to see if the stock block can handle this kind of power. If it can, ProtegeGarage is going to get rich.

not in that case.. he was asking if that is what he needed to make it a safe reliable dd.. he will need those parts to do so.. He isnt asking what he shouldnt do so he can test the limits, he is asking what he should do so the car becomes "reliable"

read.

 

[TRSpeed3]

not in that case.. he was asking if that is what he needed to make it a safe reliable dd.. he will need those parts to do so.. He isnt asking what he shouldnt do so he can test the limits, he is asking what he should do so the car becomes "reliable"

read.

Thanks...

 

[tru-boost]

the duty cycle thing has thrown me for a loop too, i must admit. when you say 45% duty cycle i understand 100% what that means on a standard FI car, but DI is way different. does that mean they are working at 45% during the brief period they get to spray, or is it like a standard car and that number relates to how long the injectors are open during all 4 stages of combustion ?? if that is the case and 100% would mean the injector never closes that would mean 45-50% is absolutly maxxed. i am stumped.

 

[trufanatic]

I think the point is to see if the stock block can handle this kind of power. If it can, ProtegeGarage is going to get rich.

honestly, i have never seen a forced induced car that cant handle 80-100+ whp over stock trip..... EVER but i might be wrong.
(old turbo dodges(wowzerz), 4g63, srt, ej20, ej25, sr20det. these are all motors from the last 10 years or so all capbale of close to 500hp. why would mazda cut a corner and skimp on the MZR?


There is too much tecnology dumped into the MZR for it not to hold up to some decent power. We gotta remember that out of 5000+ owners, we've probably had 10-12 that i kno about that blown....what about everyone else?

as soon as we get past the ECU we'll be ok.

 

[Rotus8]

the duty cycle thing has thrown me for a loop too, i must admit. when you say 45% duty cycle i understand 100% what that means on a standard FI car, but DI is way different. does that mean they are working at 45% during the brief period they get to spray, or is it like a standard car and that number relates to how long the injectors are open during all 4 stages of combustion ?? if that is the case and 100% would mean the injector never closes that would mean 45-50% is absolutly maxxed. i am stumped.

There is the added complexity of the fuel pump pressure, which can be controlled by the ECU - more pressure means more gas for a given duty cycle.

 

[trufanatic]

There is the added complexity of the fuel pump pressure, which can be controlled by the ECU - more pressure means more gas for a given duty cycle.

tru tru. the SRT4 has a static fuel pressure of 1600 psi and our is close to 1800psi i believe...the SRT's though are able to run a return line start fuels system with a RRFPR. i hope something like that is in our future, all else fails just give us bigger injectors.

 

[tru-boost]

There is the added complexity of the fuel pump pressure, which can be controlled by the ECU - more pressure means more gas for a given duty cycle.

i understand that, but that still doesnt tell us how much we can squeeze out of our injectors. what i want to know is how is the duty cycle for DI rated.
if the injecters were at 100% would that mean 100% non stop spray (which is not how DI works) or that they are at 100% duty within their proper spray period ? i have a feeling mrlilguy is gonna come school us on this..... i hope he does cuz i sure as hell dont know ! me personally, i think new injectors are in order. from some of the logs from laloosh and dadasracecar i have seen they still run real lean when running through the gears. and they have upgraded CDFP's ! the car will command 9.5:1 AFR but not drop below 13:1 in many cases. that tells me there is still a fuel delivery problem somewhere.

 

[trufanatic]

direct injected car from my reading have lean periods in the combustion process. wiki or google "engine direct injection". the technology was meant to run pretty lean somewhere in the combustion cycle. lastly, i dont see the VW and Audi guys having any problems and they have been DI for years.

 

[ericrapp]

What little I know is, not to use injectors beyond 75-80% cycle, and I thought they open and close in relation to the combustion point during the 4 stroke cycle. With disi I thought one was able to move injector opening moments to our advantage. I am only trying to become more educated on these subjects thanks

 

[exxed]

honestly, i have never seen a forced induced car that cant handle 80-100+ whp over stock trip..... EVER but i might be wrong.
(old turbo dodges(wowzerz), 4g63, srt, ej20, ej25, sr20det. these are all motors from the last 10 years or so all capbale of close to 500hp. why would mazda cut a corner and skimp on the MZR?


There is too much tecnology dumped into the MZR for it not to hold up to some decent power. We gotta remember that out of 5000+ owners, we've probably had 10-12 that i kno about that blown....what about everyone else?

as soon as we get past the ECU we'll be ok.

Almost none of those engines you listed can handle 500hp on the stock block. I also have an sr20det, the most you should run on a stock block on that motor is 350ish whp, which is even sorta pushing it. ej20's can't come close to 500hp on the stock blocks. 4g63 is gonna have crank walk at that power level on a stock block. Hell, even the tt 300zx with its extremely strong 6 cylinder engine can't really handle 500whp, i think scc's blew up in the low 400's. Srt4's also can't handle 500hp on the stock block for a very long time. And that is crank horsepower, no way any of those cars can touch that with whp, like really, it would be a bad idea.

We also aren't talking about 80-100whp over stock, you can make that with bolt on's with this car. they are stating 450 chp, which is like 390whp, about 150whp more than stock. I would be shoked if the engine could handle that much power.

To tell you the truth, I think 400whp in this car is retarded, any fwd car for that matter, you end up with two completely useless gear and one pretty useless gears. But I know alot of people are really into dragging.