DIY Oil Change (Tips? Recommendations?)

M

Mzumel

Member
:
2007 Mazdaspeed6
For the people of you who have changed your oil on your MS6, I'm open to any suggestion, tips, problems to encounter , etc. etc. on doing an oild change. I'm going to change it this weekend myself. Now for the questions.


1) What type of oil do ya'll recommend? And What Brand? Syntethic vs Conventional oil?

2) Oil filters? Brand? etc.

3) "Must" have tools. Ramp, oil container, googles, gloves etc. etc.

4) Technique?

5) Rating 1-10: 1 beeing easy 10 beeing hard

6) How long does all the oil usualy stops pouring?

7) Detailed process/instructions (the way you think is a good step by step process to change our oil)?

I'm a newb, This is My first car i bought with my hard earned income under my name. I take care of it as much as I can. And I wanna do thing right the first right way the first time so I won't f*&^k anything up even if it is just an oil change. Ya'll feel me?

I appretiate any comments, thoughts, anything so feel free to shoot away what ya think. Oh and I appretiate your time for reading this post too.
 
It takes a lot of oil for a 4 cylinder. 5.7L if I recall. I use Mobil 1 full synthetic symply because I believe my turbo will love me more for feeding it synthetic.

Other then that, never changed it myself. I let my dealership do it so there are no questions if/when I need warranty work done.
 
Hey, I just got mine as well, and I haven't done a DIY oil change yet. The only one of your questions I can weigh in on is number 6, and that is just to say it is going to be dependent upon the temperature of the oil. Make sure your car is warm before you start the process.

And, hell yeah, I feel ya. My circumstances are a little different (this is car #12, I think) but its the first new one since my divorce. Just knowing that I'm the only one who can screw this one up gives you a completely different perspective. That, and the fact I traded in a minivan to get my MS6.
 
I use 0w-30 Full synthetic castrol, good for the oil breaking looose and lubrication when cold but when it gets hot its enough to stick and lubricate. Also its 6 quarts not 5.7l, because thats what it is translated in liters or something metric. Also, its a drop in filter so not much changes when it comes to brands in my experience.

Basically its like this,

Drop the skid plate, it has like 6-7 10mm bolts, drain oil (drain plug first then oil filter cup also has a drain plug with a 7mm hex), then take off the Oil filter Cup, (the cup wrench you use is a 72mm with I think 16 flutes). Im doing all this by head so I could be wrong. you dont wanna use your hand for taking this cup off its really hard to and so much easier with a oil filter wrench cup. Then when you buy the oil filter it comes with two O-rings, oring the oil filter cup, and the oil filter cup drain plug. Then reverse all of that and add 6 quarts of oil. Also, just FYI mobil1 is not a true synthetic so I no longer use that stuff.

This is my 23rd car, and I just turned 22. This oil change is the biggest pain in the ass on anything I've ever owned.
 
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Oh also, I would totally use synthtic, because it conditions the seals aswell as the turbo seals so it can disappate heat easier and keep it from blowing under hot conditions.
 
Strongly suggest switching to mobile 1, Depending on your climate wil determine the weight you need. I personally run 10w30 just because its florida snd more often than not it sweltering.
 
Fully synthetic, great reputation, i have run it in all my vehicles and had 2 make it to and pass 200k miles.
 
Mzumel said:
wow lots of good inputs...I'm gonna need a ramp don't I?
Click to expand...

cars are way to low for a ramp you'll need a jack and jack stands. Bieleve me you'll destroy your front lip using ramps unless you use 2x4 or something.

Also thats mobil1 website, I said google it.
 
Ok thats someones study on an infinity? Whats your point? Mobil oil company is advertising falsely, its really kendall oil in a silver bottle and i just must have gotten lucky with my 200k miles? I don;t think so. I work on cars everyday and know what works and what doesn't.
 
jville said:
Ok thats someones study on an infinity? Whats your point? Mobil oil company is advertising falsely, its really kendall oil in a silver bottle and i just must have gotten lucky with my 200k miles? I don;t think so. I work on cars everyday and know what works and what doesn't.
Click to expand...

Telling me you work on cars everyday doesnt tell me anything, that doesnt mean you break everyone down into the engine internals and do studys and test on the wear and break down of oil. Any oil can make any engine last over 200k+ aslong as the car is taken care of.

Were are your facts? I've shown mine, and all you've shown me is a catalog and 'you work on cars everday', Im not trying to start an arguement but I hate the fact that people use mobil1 because of their reputation. Just because a nissan forum has this info up doesnt mean mobil1 changed their oils for just nissan owners.
 
Crashes said:
Telling me you work on cars everyday doesnt tell me anything, that doesnt mean you break everyone down into the engine internals and do studys and test on the wear and break down of oil. Any oil can make any engine last over 200k+ aslong as the car is taken care of.

Were are your facts? I've shown mine, and all you've shown me is a catalog and 'you work on cars everday', Im not trying to start an arguement but I hate the fact that people use mobil1 because of their reputation. Just because a nissan forum has this info up doesnt mean mobil1 changed their oils for just nissan owners.
Click to expand...

No idon't break down engine and study their wear. I don't want to start an arguement either. My post of the Mobil site is enough proof for me. You say tomato i say tom`ato. Being a mechanic i see the vast differences in engine wear and longevity all the time. IMO mobil 1 is your best option FROM MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCES. Does that make you happy? I hate the fact that pple can sit there and tell me i'm wrong and not have experience in what they are talking about. I can find a link that says the sky is red, does it make it true?
 
Mzumel,

I just did my oil on Sunday .... Here is my suggestions:

I bought a Mazda oil filter .. 7 bucks at the dealer.
I used Castrol Syntec (not a full synthetic - AND I dont care what anybody thinks of Castrol, or not using full synthetic .. I change the oil every 5000, and have never had any problems) You can use whatever oil you want. The dealer just recommends 5W-30, at least a synthetic blend.

Get the Mazda Oil Filter Wrench!!!!!!!! I can NOT stress this enough. I think its a 74-76mm 14 flute wrench. The 15 flute does not fit. I think someone said its a TYPE B wrench if you buy one at Pep Boys. Here is a link to buy a factory one: http://www.finishlineperformance.com/store/product.php?productid=16839&cat=329&page=1

I was an idiot and thought I would take the filter cover off by hand. It is never going to happen, so I had to rush out and buy a typical band-type oil filter wrench and it sucked. Get the cup-style oil filter wrench.

Procedure: Warm engine for 10 or so minutes to get the oil warm
Jack up the car, put it on jack stands.
Remove under cover (10mm bolts, 1 philips screw)
Place container under drain plug (17mm) - Allow to drain - replace plug
Place container under filter housing - Use oil filter wrench and just loosen the Filter Housing Cover a bit - Like 1/8 of a turn - Use 6mm hex key to drain oil from filter. The reason to open the housing cover a bit is cause it allows the oil to drain out of the drain plug easier.
Remove filter housing cover
Replace O-rings (one on filter drain screw, one on black filter cover)
Insert new filter, reinstall filter cover to engine, re-install filter drain plug - If you like to torque things, torque values are on the plastic cover.
Pour in 5 qts of oil ... run engine for about a minute, check for leaks. turn off car.
Check dipstick level, and pour in oil accordingly. (Manual says with a new filter, car will take 6.0 US quarts) but, you must only add enough oil to get to the MAX mark.

Replace undercar cover, remove jackstands, and your done.
 
Last edited:
Igve2shtz said:
Mzumel,

I just did my oil on Sunday .... Here is my suggestions:

I bought a Mazda oil filter .. 7 bucks at the dealer.
I used Castrol Syntec (not a full synthetic - AND I dont care what anybody thinks of Castrol, or not using full synthetic .. I change the oil every 5000, and have never had any problems) You can use whatever oil you want. The dealer just recommends 5W-30, at least a synthetic blend.

Get the Mazda Oil Filter Wrench!!!!!!!! I can NOT stress this enough. I think its a 74-76mm 14 flute wrench. The 15 flute does not fit. I think someone said its a TYPE B wrench if you buy one at Pep Boys. Here is a link to buy a factory one: http://www.finishlineperformance.com/store/product.php?productid=16839&cat=329&page=1

I was an idiot and thought I would take the filter cover off by hand. It is never going to happen, so I had to rush out and buy a typical band-type oil filter wrench and it sucked. Get the cup-style oil filter wrench.

Procedure: Warm engine for 10 or so minutes to get the oil warm
Jack up the car, put it on jack stands.
Remove under cover (10mm bolts, 1 philips screw)
Place container under drain plug (17mm) - Allow to drain - replace plug
Place container under filter housing - Use oil filter wrench and just loosen the Filter Housing Cover a bit - Like 1/8 of a turn - Use 6mm hex key to drain oil from filter. The reason to open the housing cover a bit is cause it allows the oil to drain out of the drain plug easier.
Remove filter housing cover
Replace O-rings (one on filter drain screw, one on black filter cover)
Insert new filter, reinstall filter cover to engine, re-install filter drain plug - If you like to torque things, torque values are on the plastic cover.
Pour in 5 qts of oil ... run engine for about a minute, check for leaks. turn off car.
Check dipstick level, and pour in oil accordingly. (Manual says with a new filter, car will take 6.0 US quarts) but, you must only add enough oil to get to the MAX mark.

Replace undercar cover, remove jackstands, and your done.
Click to expand...


Sweet!!!
 
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