Just installed my subs and amp...

[Butlerg]

Using the stock head unit and the LOC tapped into the rear speaker wires, I did my first sub/amp installation. But now everytime I turn the radio/car on and off, I hear a sort of loud "feedback," except it's really low and lasts for 1 second or so. What is that?

 

[Hirudin]

Using the stock head unit and the LOC tapped into the rear speaker wires, I did my first sub/amp installation. But now everytime I turn the radio/car on and off, I hear a sort of loud "feedback," except it's really low and lasts for 1 second or so. What is that?

Unfortunately I can't help you, but if you don't mind clearing up a couple things it may help others understand the problem...

Is it only when turning the car on or do you get a sound if you turn the car off as well?

Do you get the sound if the radio is off, but you turn on the car?

The sound you hear; can you describe it more? Is it a whine/whistle? Is it low volume or low frequency (aka bass)?

--Sorry not trying to be anal, only trying to help...

 

[Butlerg]

Sorry ha. I was in a bit of a rush. It happens only when I turn the car on AND off. I just checked, and YES I do get it even with the radio off.

 

[1sty]

what is wired to the remote turn on of the amp?
Do you have a high pitched whine when you accelerate coming from the speakers?
What is the amp and LOC?

 

[Butlerg]

For the remote turn on, I used the yellow wire with the silver dots. (I have a 2004 Mazda3 hatch) There is no high pitched whine from the speakers, but the amp is a 600 watt Lanzar. The only thing that seems to be wrong is that low, quick, "feedback" like noise coming from the subs when the car is turned on or off.

 

[kragan76]

Disconnect the RCA's from your amp and try it again. If you still get the noise, you at least eliminated the LOC and can look else where, such as your remote turn on.

 

[Butlerg]

I disconnected the RCA's, and it no longer had the noise... (screwy)

 

[kragan76]

So it's not a power issue. Looks like its the LOC. What brand/model is the LOC and where is it installed? (i.e. in the dash behind the head unit or closer to the amp?)

 

[nypest]

Disconnect the RCA's from your amp and try it again. If you still get the noise, you at least eliminated the LOC and can look else where, such as your remote turn on.

is the noise like a low poping noise ???

Are you running your power and gnd next to each other??

If you haven’t already re-check all your wiring at the amp, making sure you don’t have any sloppy securing of you power/gnd/remote/input, output. Sometimes a simple once over can really help.

Good luck.

 

[DuBy]

x2

 

[fourthmeal]

Also I want to add that tapping into the REAR speaker wires will yield less then favorable results as far as sound quality to a subwoofer. The FRONT wires would be better to tap into. I've covered this a few times because it is quite important to a sub to have a somewhat flat low frequency response output, whereas the REAR outputs are not flat at all, but rolled off early in the bass frequencies.

As to other noises...there are just so many variables!

 

[DuBy]

Sounds like you have a ground loop. Locate a better, more solid ground and see if it happenes again. I've seen this a thousand times.

 

[rodney]

Also I want to add that tapping into the REAR speaker wires will yield less then favorable results as far as sound quality to a subwoofer. The FRONT wires would be better to tap into. I've covered this a few times because it is quite important to a sub to have a somewhat flat low frequency response output, whereas the REAR outputs are not flat at all, but rolled off early in the bass frequencies.

As to other noises...there are just so many variables!

i tapped into my rear speaker wires and it sounds great

 

[fourthmeal]

I'm not going to debate this with you, Rodney. I've done the research and I've done the testing. The stock (non-Bose) head unit sends the rear speakers a rolled-off signal response, this is proven.

If you are running a sub using the rear speaker leads, you're doing yourself a disservice and are seriously cutting out a lot of the potential in your "system"

The front outputs are slightly better, but the most ideal solution (I've found out the hard way) is to run a processor that restores the signal to flat, giving your amps a chance to play the music as it was intended.

Garbage In - Garbage Out, my friend.