CX-90 PHEV: Looking for lease numbers / deals

Question for folks. If a dealer offers Dealer Discounts (not the EV-$7500 discount) of $750, or $1500, etc., is that the same as basically negotiating on the MSRP? i.e. if a dealer has the car for $58,825 but then is offering a $2,000 dealer discount, is that the same as negotiating the price of the car down to $2k under MSRP?
 
Only if the $58.8k price is the actual MSRP. Some dealers will advertise sale pricing higher or lower depending on how the car is optioned, freight and PDI costs, and whether certain dealer "add-ons" are included. Just check to make sure the other Mazda incentives (loyalty, military, student) are not included in that dealer discount, and its the same as if you had negotiated the price down. The discount is more like negotiating the price of the car down $2k from that dealer's sale price, not the MSRP that is listed on mazda.ca or mazdausa.com.
 
the problem with CX-90 PHEV leases right now is the money factor. it's just stupid high for some reason
Define stupid high, its pretty in line with what you are seeing in other brands right now. Gone are the days of near 0 interest on leases. Some Stellantis leases have as high as .0058 Money factors, most manufacturers are sitting around that .002-.003 area, although we are starting to see them drop.

It is also important to remember, money factors are non negotiable (buy rate at least) and are set by the bank, no dealership has control over the buy rate money factor on a lease program.

The exception, is that dealers can mark up money factors by varying amounts (depends on lender) and they can of course control if and how much they mark up rates, but the starting point rate is set by the lender.
 
Define stupid high, its pretty in line with what you are seeing in other brands right now. Gone are the days of near 0 interest on leases. Some Stellantis leases have as high as .0058 Money factors, most manufacturers are sitting around that .002-.003 area, although we are starting to see them drop.

It is also important to remember, money factors are non negotiable (buy rate at least) and are set by the bank, no dealership has control over the buy rate money factor on a lease program.

The exception, is that dealers can mark up money factors by varying amounts (depends on lender) and they can of course control if and how much they mark up rates, but the starting point rate is set by the lender.
a CX90 Premium PHEV is at .00289 while the CX90 Turbo S Premium is at .00081 and a CX5 Premium Plus is .00084. that's what I mean by stupid high. On a $60k vehicle it basically cancels out the $7500 tax credit
 
a CX90 Premium PHEV is at .00289 while the CX90 Turbo S Premium is at .00081 and a CX5 Premium Plus is .00084. that's what I mean by stupid high. On a $60k vehicle it basically cancels out the $7500 tax credit
Yeah I don't disagree it's definitely higher than their other models, PHEV Prem+ is .00314 which is definitely high, my point was more around the fact that compared to all manufacturer lease programs in the market right now, its not uncommon to find money factors in this range - 4 years ago when I was still at Mazda, a .00289 money factor would blow my mind and I would consider it a standard rate lease as most leases had rates of .00001-.00010 for a very long time. Today, it just isn't surprising.

It's also a good time to remember that not all manufacturers/banks even pass on these tax rebates (looking at your Ford) to consumers as they are not required to, since these large rebates combined with 24 month high residual terms is the golden ratio in new car leases today, if they had a fully subvented lease rate they would be leasing for literally next to nothing. But the market dictates they are worth at least $300+ per month, so they could raise MSRP higher to counteract but that would turn off retail buyers and be bad optics, they could drop residuals very low but then customers could just sell their leases elsewhere or buy them out so the bank won't get the benefit of owning them cheap at the end to catch profit so my guess is they offset this by not subventing money factor so they can capture profits up front.

I want to also specify that this is simply Mazda not subventing lease money factors, they are not "raising" them. Mazda underwrites their leases thru Toyota Financial, banks all have standard rates that are in line with market APRs you see (~7%-8%+) and then manufacturers "subvent" them by buying them down from the bank to offer lower rates. Its the same way those 0% offers work, the bank isn't actually lending at 0%, but the manufacturer buys down the rate to offer it as a special offer. This is also why you see offers such as 0% APR - OR - $XXX Customer Cash. Can't use both since the manufacturer is using that money to buy the rate down to 0%.
 
I'm soon going to pull the trigger on a lease. I have all the numbers (Final sale price, MF, Depreciation, Residual, monthly payment, etc.) but when I go in, what other things/surprises should I look out for?

Also, what additional packages, etc. will the Finance Manager try to sell me on?
 
I'm soon going to pull the trigger on a lease. I have all the numbers (Final sale price, MF, Depreciation, Residual, monthly payment, etc.) but when I go in, what other things/surprises should I look out for?

Also, what additional packages, etc. will the Finance Manager try to sell me on?

When you do a final once over of the terms before you sign, double check the numbers. I've heard some stories of finance managers slipping in extra fees or charges, and it may be a headache to get them removed or refunded after the sale has been completed.

It's the finance person's job to sell you extras that profit the dealership. They'll explain extended warranty options, maintenance package options, preventative treatments (rust inhibitor/undercoating, wax/ceramic/sealant options, etc.). Possibly even stuff like paint protection film, tint, or "blackout packages" (dealer subcontracts another company to do custom cosmetic work like painting chrome emblems black or wrapping chrome trim in black vinyl), but these are sometimes unique to the dealer.

As far as cost:
Maintenance packages are usually too expensive to be worth it. If you let someone else do basic maintenance for you, be prepared to check to make sure they actually did the work (check the engine oil dipstick after service, mark your tires before tire rotations, etc.). On top of that, the dealer uses service appointments to upsell you on other service you may not need, like fuel treatments or cabin air filter replacements.
Extended warranties are always negotiable, try to aim for half of the advertised price if you want it. Most people here would suggest skipping the extended warranty, opting instead to put that money aside as an emergency repair fund, because you may never need to use the warranty. It comes down to peace of mind and personal preference.
Preventative treatments, PPF, appearance packages, and even OEM accessories are usually not worth the cost from the dealer, and can be applied or sourced after the fact on your own, for lower prices. But you can always try to work them into your deal. For example, back in 2018 I was able to get PPF, premium floor liners, a cargo mat, and a cargo net all included for free.

If you're interested in any of these things, it would be a good idea to research pricing and service from other companies outside of the dealership so you're more prepared to make a decision when the finance manager pitches these items to you during the sale. Keep in mind that the dealer will often take the lowest bid from a subcontractor to increase their profit.
 
When you do a final once over of the terms before you sign, double check the numbers. I've heard some stories of finance managers slipping in extra fees or charges, and it may be a headache to get them removed or refunded after the sale has been completed.

It's the finance person's job to sell you extras that profit the dealership. They'll explain extended warranty options, maintenance package options, preventative treatments (rust inhibitor/undercoating, wax/ceramic/sealant options, etc.). Possibly even stuff like paint protection film, tint, or "blackout packages" (dealer subcontracts another company to do custom cosmetic work like painting chrome emblems black or wrapping chrome trim in black vinyl), but these are sometimes unique to the dealer.

As far as cost:
Maintenance packages are usually too expensive to be worth it. If you let someone else do basic maintenance for you, be prepared to check to make sure they actually did the work (check the engine oil dipstick after service, mark your tires before tire rotations, etc.). On top of that, the dealer uses service appointments to upsell you on other service you may not need, like fuel treatments or cabin air filter replacements.
Extended warranties are always negotiable, try to aim for half of the advertised price if you want it. Most people here would suggest skipping the extended warranty, opting instead to put that money aside as an emergency repair fund, because you may never need to use the warranty. It comes down to peace of mind and personal preference.
Preventative treatments, PPF, appearance packages, and even OEM accessories are usually not worth the cost from the dealer, and can be applied or sourced after the fact on your own, for lower prices. But you can always try to work them into your deal. For example, back in 2018 I was able to get PPF, premium floor liners, a cargo mat, and a cargo net all included for free.

If you're interested in any of these things, it would be a good idea to research pricing and service from other companies outside of the dealership so you're more prepared to make a decision when the finance manager pitches these items to you during the sale. Keep in mind that the dealer will often take the lowest bid from a subcontractor to increase their profit.
Thanks for this. I am leasing for 24 months so definitely don't need the extended warranty.

Also, given that in those 24 months I'll only need oil changes, I'll probably also skip any maintenance packages.

The only thing I was thinking about was any cosmetic-related packages, such as the wheel package. I know that I'm on the hook for any damages to the car once I return it, e.g. wheel scratches, so thoughts on that or packages related to cosmetic in terms of lease?
 
There should be some allotment for small damages when returning the vehicle EoL (see the Lease agreement). If you re-lease another Mazda, they typically ignore any small damages, cuz they want you to lease another vehicle
 
Back