2016 CX-5 Audio upgrade thread

[jelfrank]

Bumping my own bump...

The D pillar speakers were extremely easy to replace with a pair of Infinity Ref 3022CFX, and the rear doors with a pair of Infinity Ref 6522EX. I used a pair of PAC NSB710 adapters for the rear doors along with the Metra 72-5602 harness.

I also installed a Kenwood KSC-SW11 sub under the driver's seat using the PAC AOEM-MAZ2 interface. That made a BIG difference! I'm able to turn the bass down a little on the Bose system, and instead drive it through the more capable (clearer, less muddy) Kenwood sub. A little futzing around with the gain and low pass filter and I'm really liking this change.

I left the front doors alone as much as it pains me. They only get bass frequencies, and installing the Infinity Ref 6522EX would have been a waste. Possible future upgrade with the Earthquake Sound i82SWS or Infinity REF-FLEX8, but I feel like I'm at the point of diminishing returns.

Total investment was $440 plus a few tools, and it was worth every cent. Is the PAC AOEM-MAZ2 required or just a plus. I would think the sub comes with it's own. Don't know much about this stuff... learning.

Gonna follow your lead and install the Kenwood sub.

 

[jelfrank]

Bumping my own bump...

The D pillar speakers were extremely easy to replace with a pair of Infinity Ref 3022CFX, and the rear doors with a pair of Infinity Ref 6522EX. I used a pair of PAC NSB710 adapters for the rear doors along with the Metra 72-5602 harness.

I also installed a Kenwood KSC-SW11 sub under the driver's seat using the PAC AOEM-MAZ2 interface. That made a BIG difference! I'm able to turn the bass down a little on the Bose system, and instead drive it through the more capable (clearer, less muddy) Kenwood sub. A little futzing around with the gain and low pass filter and I'm really liking this change.

I left the front doors alone as much as it pains me. They only get bass frequencies, and installing the Infinity Ref 6522EX would have been a waste. Possible future upgrade with the Earthquake Sound i82SWS or Infinity REF-FLEX8, but I feel like I'm at the point of diminishing returns.

Total investment was $440 plus a few tools, and it was worth every cent.

Hi, did you keep the Bose amp when you installed the Kenwood sub? I guess you tap the signal behind the radio head, if so?

 

[CX5_Driver]

you keep the Bose amp because it drives the other speakers. You can get clean signal right before the amp.

you will want to review this:

2013~2016: - CX-5 Radio unit connector pinout

Hey guys! I'm working on a project to connect 2 amps to the standard radio in CX-5 and need to know the pinout of connectors at the back of the radio unit. So here is the picture of the connectors: https://g-a.d-cd.net/d43189u-960.jpg can anybody share a list of signals on each of these...

www.mazdas247.com

and

https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/ind...2-adapter-install-help.123863126/post-6680064

Which references the efforts here:
https://www.mazda6club.com/threads/...w-bose-full-system-breakdown-analysis.440044/

There are pinout diagrams for the Mazda 6 BOSE with are identical to the CX5 BOSE system with this small note:

"The only difference I see between the Mazda 6 and CX-5 is the remote turn on (acc) wire is violet (CX-5) instead of red/black (Mazda 6), but both are in the 2D pin location on the middle connector plug on the Bose amp."

 

[jelfrank]

Gonna follow your lead and install the Kenwood sub.

Gonna try this on the doors. PowerBass L2-6C it's s component system but 2 ohm. I just won't install the tweeters. Install will be easy, so I got an extra $150 to burn. 6" speakers replacing 9"? hmmm. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-uCKHELCMcxh/p_151L26C/PowerBass-L2-6C.html

 

[jelfrank]

The Polk DB652s have a 4-ohm impedance and the factory ones are like 2 ohms, so that might impact your bass response. Have you tried messing around with the EQ settings to drive more bass to them?

Update. Putting in Powerbass 2 ohm speakers (leaving out the tweeter components). Crutchfield says will work well with the Bose amp that pumps the bass to the front doors. Going from 9" woofers to 6". Will be interesting to see if I get the punchier bass, and less muddy sound. If I am not totally satisfied, I might put in the Kenwood subwoofer under the driver's seat.

 

[jelfrank]

MY BOSE UPGRADE STORY. After weeks of thought and trial and error, while trying to keep it all under $500, the job is done!

Gear upgrades:
Front dash 3 speakers: Polk Audio DB351. Thanks to you all on this forum that recommended those. Crutchfield said only the center would fit, but the others went in just as well on the corners. Cleaner tones, crisper tones on highs and high mids. Worth the about $100.

Rear doors: Polk Audio DB652. Made the back half of the car relevant! I fade to the back now about 2 clicks. Enjoying more of that full car sound. Dash can be too dominating. I think it was no more than $120.

Front door woofers (the biggest problem). Tried Infinity REF FLEX 8's. Too big for the enclosure. Thought about a sub woofer, Kenwood mentioned in this thread. But, talked to Crutchfield and they recommended ProBass 6" 2 way woofers (just don't install the tweeter). I was skeptical replacing the 9" 2 ohm Bose woofers with the 6" 2 ohm ProBass. But, to my surprise, not only cleaner, punchier bass, but no discernible loss at the lowest end of the audible spectrum. Am I gonna vibrate the car next to me at the stoplight? No. But, I listen to music seriously. The Bose woofers would vibrate the car but it was cloudy sound. These were around $120 (check all the prices as they may be lower). I am so happy I will send back the sub-woofer I ordered. Not needed.

About $360 + $100 for the dash install (tricky wiring in a tight space so I decided to have a pro help). $460 for a significantly cleaner sound. No need to mess with the amp, or head unit. That's a lot of headaches for little gain in my assessment. The amp provides enough juice, unless you want to serenade the neighborhood. Have at it.

Now to use my Qobuz hi-res streaming service to get the most out of it all. I'll never listen to an MP3 again. This is an even bigger difference than upgrading your gear.

Thanks to all who have given me advice along the way.

 

[ColtX-5]

I'd like to experiment with the dash center speaker. If you have one, labeled KE68 66 960, I'll buy it. Please PM me and we'll work out the transfer.

 

[jelfrank]

I'd like to experiment with the dash center speaker. If you have one, labeled KE68 66 960, I'll buy it. Please PM me and we'll work out the transfer.

If you are asking about my speaker, I have an extra Polk

Bumping my own bump...

The D pillar speakers were extremely easy to replace with a pair of Infinity Ref 3022CFX, and the rear doors with a pair of Infinity Ref 6522EX. I used a pair of PAC NSB710 adapters for the rear doors along with the Metra 72-5602 harness.

I also installed a Kenwood KSC-SW11 sub under the driver's seat using the PAC AOEM-MAZ2 interface. That made a BIG difference! I'm able to turn the bass down a little on the Bose system, and instead drive it through the more capable (clearer, less muddy) Kenwood sub. A little futzing around with the gain and low pass filter and I'm really liking this change.

I left the front doors alone as much as it pains me. They only get bass frequencies, and installing the Infinity Ref 6522EX would have been a waste. Possible future upgrade with the Earthquake Sound i82SWS or Infinity REF-FLEX8, but I feel like I'm at the point of diminishing returns.

Total investment was $440 plus a few tools, and it was worth every cent.

Did you need a speaker harness for the D pillar speaker connection?

 

[ColtX-5]

Have a loook at this woofer, too. It is not very sensitive, but it doesn't have a foam surround and has an excellent Qts for a no box situation.

Home

Goldwood GW-8024 8" Butyl Surround Woofer 4 OhmButyl rubber surrounds are superior to foam in two important ways. First, the butyl rubber resists moisture and will not dry rot, providing years of service. Second, the rubber surround, due to its superior damping characteristics will greatly...

www.parts-express.com

Verify the available mounting depth. It should get below 40 Hz well enough.

 

[jelfrank]

I opted for Power Bass L2 6c instead and had great Results replacing the door woofers in the front. The bass is cleaner, punchy and does the job. I don’t feel I need the subwoofer. I didn’t install the tweeters as they certainly weren’t needed with the Dash three speakers. This was Crutchfield‘s recommendation and a paid off. And those speakers aren’t expensive at all

 

[jelfrank]

Have a loook at this woofer, too. It is not very sensitive, but it doesn't have a foam surround and has an excellent Qts for a no box situation.

Home

Goldwood GW-8024 8" Butyl Surround Woofer 4 OhmButyl rubber surrounds are superior to foam in two important ways. First, the butyl rubber resists moisture and will not dry rot, providing years of service. Second, the rubber surround, due to its superior damping characteristics will greatly...

www.parts-express.com

Verify the available mounting depth. It should get below 40 Hz well enough.

for the Bose system I got good results from the 2ohm component speaker PowerBass 6.5" If fit easily with the adapter Crutchfield sent. Just don't install the tweeter it comes with. Don't know if a 4ohm speaker will do the job. Now, I did up my bass settings a couple of clicks. With my overall upgrades I put in speakers more power hungry than I replaced. So I crank the volume 5 more clicks. The sound is cleaner and crisper, however. with the hi-res Qobuz streaming service (amazing how many people spend a lot on a car audio upgrade only to continue to play MP3's) you can hear how different recordings are in volume and intonation. I adjust the bass/treble, and fade to rear when highs are too harsh. Not a hassle. Takes about 10 seconds.

PowerBass installed. Punchy and crisp. Maybe not enough if you listen to a lot of hiphop or other subwoofer dominant music. great for jazz, most pop and rock. Will still make your rear view mirror vibrate.

 

[jelfrank]

Bumping my own bump...

The D pillar speakers were extremely easy to replace with a pair of Infinity Ref 3022CFX, and the rear doors with a pair of Infinity Ref 6522EX. I used a pair of PAC NSB710 adapters for the rear doors along with the Metra 72-5602 harness.

I also installed a Kenwood KSC-SW11 sub under the driver's seat using the PAC AOEM-MAZ2 interface. That made a BIG difference! I'm able to turn the bass down a little on the Bose system, and instead drive it through the more capable (clearer, less muddy) Kenwood sub. A little futzing around with the gain and low pass filter and I'm really liking this change.

I left the front doors alone as much as it pains me. They only get bass frequencies, and installing the Infinity Ref 6522EX would have been a waste. Possible future upgrade with the Earthquake Sound i82SWS or Infinity REF-FLEX8, but I feel like I'm at the point of diminishing returns.

Total investment was $440 plus a few tools, and it was worth every cent.

I heard the D pillar speakers were a lot of work to get to. How was it so easy?

 

[ColtX-5]

I had one of my dash speakers start buzzing. So I swapped them around and put the bad one in the middle. The middle plays even with centerpoint off. To kill the buzz, I unplugged it and have found the sound to be better. Most of the screeching comes from that center channel. the stereo image is better, too. I recommend just unplugging it. Or adding a 10 ohm, 20 watt+ resistor in series with the driver to cut the output several dB.

 

[PapiCX-5]

I opted for Power Bass L2 6c instead and had great Results replacing the door woofers in the front. The bass is cleaner, punchy and does the job. I don’t feel I need the subwoofer. I didn’t install the tweeters as they certainly weren’t needed with the Dash three speakers. This was Crutchfield‘s recommendation and a paid off. And those speakers aren’t expensive at all

Just got the L2 6C’s myself. How and what did you modify to get them to fit the front doors? Thanks!

 

[PapiCX-5]

Just got the L2 6C’s myself. How and what did you modify to get them to fit the front doors? Thanks!

Wondering if I got the wrong adapters from Crutchfield? They only way the supplied ones will fit is if I cut bigger holes in the door. That doesn’t seem right.

 

[Dearsx]

In guessing each four ohm speaker is getting 15-20 watts and the 8 inch mids around 50 watts. The 1.25 ohm load ensures it draws about 3-4 times the current from the amp. If that is the case each a 4 ohm woofer just needs to be as efficient as the midrange around 90db at 1 watts. Or 87db if 2ohm. Problem is most 8 inch woofers that extend low in the doors are 87db efficient.

Home

Goldwood GW-208/4 8" OEM Woofer 4 OhmThese low frequency OEM drivers are ideal for the customer who is looking for inexpensive replacement woofers. Each woofer features a treated poly-laminated paper cone, vented pole piece, moisture resistant poly foam surround, and stamped steel frame.

www.parts-express.com

This is one I'm looking to try. Should mate well with many coaxial speakers.

 

[LeadMonkey]

Here are the tools I used for the install. It helps to have two different lengths of driver bits.

Here's the difference in height between the two speakers.

Here you could see the defroster vent pipe. You cannot move it but it's semi-rigid formed plastic.

Here you could see the speaker resting on the vent pipe before I put the screws in.

Here's the speaker after the screws are tightened. Note that I didn't tighten the screws all the way. There's no need. Too much pressure on the screws might damage the vent pipe. The pipe does give a little so it could take some pressure from the speaker. NOTE: for some reason the driver side has greater interference than the passenger side despite both sides appear to be identical to the naked eye.

I purchased this connector on eBay per someone's recommendation on this forum. They are useless. The pin spacing and pin length don't match up to the factory connector. The pins are also significantly thinner than the factory pins.

Here's the factory connector on the stock Bose speaker. De-solder the wire and remove the connector.

Transfer the connector to the Polk speaker and solder the pins. They match up perfectly! Watch for the polarity. The green wire on the factory harness is the negative side.

Another view of the transferred connector on the Polk speaker. Due to the vent pipe you want to orient the connector towards the front. There's plenty of clearance for the connector. That's it! Connect the factory harness and tighten the screws and you are done.

Hey guys does anyone see an issue with using the JL Audio C2 350x speakers in the right/left dash? As far as I can tell they are the same size as the Polk Audio db351 everyone has been using. Crutchfield claims neither fit but clearly some adjustments for the vent pipes have been easy enough. Thoughts?

BTW I’m replacing the entire speaker and amp sets with quality amps, a DSP (Audio Control DM-810) and all new wire.

 

[ColtX-5]

It shouldn't be a problem, but you will have to work to clear that big magnet.

 

[Jdw4]

Hi there, it looks like the Polk 351 speakers for the front dash are discontinued or difficult to find. Have folks been using something else instead? I suspect the right front dash speaker in my wife’s car is blown and want to replace it. Hoping to keep it in the $50 range.

 

[GetRUINed]

I think a powered subwoofer is a great idea as the factory Bose amplifier has too low of an output for nine speakers. With the addition of a powered subwoofer one could reduce the low bass of the factory system and hence make the factory amplifier work less hard (i.e. produce cleaner power with lower distortion). I'm interested in hearing the sound quality of your installation once you get everything dialed in. As I mentioned I think the mediocre sound quality of the factory is attributed to high distortion at higher power levels.

I added a Hertz CBA 250 CBA 250 - Hertz car audio systems | The Sound Experience to my 2016 CX5 and it absolutely completes the system. Very happy.