WRX 440cc injectors

Sorry guys...no install yet.

I am waiting for to order/recieve the J&S Safeguard....once that is in...the WRX injectors are IN and so is a larger FUEL rail.

I will do a good write up on it.
 
i guess i may be the first one to "do it" then. Im waiting on my manifold and o2 housing but then it is go time...

-B
 
the whole electrical tape scares me do you really think it will hold up? hope tis works out would be cool to have an option.
 
YP5_Toronto, go to emachineshop.com and design your spacer and then get like 40 made, should come out fairly cheap and then you would have enough for 10 sets (sell em!)
 
Everything looks good except the E-tape.It WILL NOT hold up withthe fuel.Take some gas and put it in a bowl and then dip a piece of E-tape in it and watch what it does.It might take a little time but the gas sould eat it up.Add to that heat from the enginge and you are setting yourself up for a potential leak and fire.Just try before something bad happens.Everything else is looking good though.Great idea BTW.Cant wait to see how it turns out.

Matt
 
You could even make the piece an all in one design. I see it as a spacer with a flange so that it fits the black-ribbed donut and sets the injector out far enough to be like stock. If you decide to bring the injector in further, you could just grind off some of the flange. The pieces could be milled from aluminum or some other fuel resistant plastic. And if 100 were made, the total cost might be about $100. Thats enough for 25 sets at $4 a set!!
 
You guys are awesome....I think I could come up with the design...but the factor will be how far in or out the nozzle should be placed for optimization. Maybe I will try it with the tape for a very brief period of time to test how it runs...if it runs well, then I will know how to design the new piece.

I will give this some more thought.

Again...an example of what this board is about.
 
igdrasil said:
Just put them IN, forget about ideas, probably nobody here knows and you are just one step behind to really know about it.
Most people here say what the think about some stuff. Experience will tell everything.
For example:
Our piston/con rod assembly are very strong! Very good for 15-16psi of boost welll tuned. That amount of boost is not a joke on our cars. But its the limit of reliability on them due to defective errors or any human error.
Injectors?, good enough for 11-12psi of boost using FMU.
Axles are just damn great, but If you need more, get the 94' 626 axles if I remember correctly.
We can use a distributor also with our engines, we just need an exhaust cam from the 626 and the ignition system.
Our blocks along with the crankshaft are forged, this means, they are boost friendly.

Bla bla bla


In other words...

GO ON! And let us know.
Click to expand...
Great info...you should start some threads on that. :)
 
OK guys, Nick (perfworks) and I installed the WRX injectors on my car about three weeks ago. We did notice the washer issue, but that didn't intefere with anything. Once the fuel rail is bolted down, the injectors aren't going anywhere. There are no fitment issues either. The spacing is perfect.

I went with these because my car was not running right after my engine build. It was incredibly lean. So, after the install and some tuning with the LM-1 my car was running smooth. No more stalling at an idle. My A/F is almost normal, but I won't be able to achieve that until I get ems.

I noticed improved throttle response, the car was dying for fuel. Ever thing was running great until my ecu fried.
 
Even at higher boost levels the injectors didn't leak pressure around the side? The o-ring can only do so much with that much "looseness". I would like to see Jason make a bunch of these from emachineshop and then sell the spacer sets for $10.

My opinion only.
 
I have been playing with some designs with the emachineshop.... I can not make these things out of metal..as metal will transfer way tooooo much heat to the injector (hence the rubber ring/washer). I have emailed them about what I need and asked them for a recommnedation on a material.

Outside of this...I am working on another solution.

Question....what temperature do you think the "nozzle" is exposed to?
 
Yeah, I would make them out of plastic, it would be cheaper too. As far as temperature, I would guess that the hottest it would ever see is when the car is off and the heat can soak into it. When the car is running it has air and fuel to cool it down.
 
I'm sorry guys, I'm running these on a NA car. The compression is bumped up a little, but a I'm not sure how much a shaved head could yield. Definately not as much as boost.
 
so...here is my thought....I am going to fill in the space with some high heat resistant liquid gasket...let it cure then...install away.
 
igdrasil said:
Just put them IN, forget about ideas, probably nobody here knows and you are just one step behind to really know about it.
Most people here say what the think about some stuff. Experience will tell everything.
For example:
Our piston/con rod assembly are very strong! Very good for 15-16psi of boost welll tuned. That amount of boost is not a joke on our cars. But its the limit of reliability on them due to defective errors or any human error.
Injectors?, good enough for 11-12psi of boost using FMU.
Axles are just damn great, but If you need more, get the 94' 626 axles if I remember correctly.
We can use a distributor also with our engines, we just need an exhaust cam from the 626 and the ignition system.
Our blocks along with the crankshaft are forged, this means, they are boost friendly.

Bla bla bla


In other words...

GO ON! And let us know.
Click to expand...
The conrod and piston assembly are NOT very strong.
The pistons are cast and DO NOT handle high heat and cylinder pressures well at all.
Also do not confuse boost pressure with actual cylinder pressure or oxygen content in the charge
To say that the engine can handle 16lbs of boost with out mentioning the type of induction setup is not accurate.
Further more the Block is not forged.
It is a cast iron block. The crank and rods are forged.
Boost freindly means an engine that has been designed to run a forced induction setup. I can guarantee you that the FS was never designed for FI. Your head (cams), and static compression alone tell you that.
My 2 1/2 cents
 
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