What have you done to your P5 today?

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
Benji can let us know how ACDelco rides after he's driven a few thousand miles on them. :)
Will do.
Racing Beat or the H&R springs DD mentions below can be had for around $250
The ones I've considered most are the Tein H-Tech Protege5's. You can still find them for ~$230 on https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)and they have a pretty mild drop and (comparatively) a mild spring rate, if the numbers are to be believed.

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Tokico and Tein struts have been mentioned a lot on this forum
Yes, those are the ones that come to mind. But I wouldn't consider them feasible options though if you can't buy them new anywhere (which as far as I know, you can't). But please correct me if I'm wrong.

I say this not to prove that I'm right about the topic, but more so to say that lowering springs essentially must be used with stock-style struts, or not at all, unless you can find used struts.
 

katapaltes

'03 P5, '17 Miata, stock AF
:
Dallas, TX
:
2003 Protege5
Will do.

The ones I've considered most are the Tein H-Tech Protege5's. You can still find them for ~$230 on https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)and they have a pretty mild drop and (comparatively) a mild spring rate, if the numbers are to be believed.

View attachment 314308


Yes, those are the ones that come to mind. But I wouldn't consider them feasible options though if you can't buy them new anywhere (which as far as I know, you can't). But please correct me if I'm wrong.

I say this not to prove that I'm right about the topic, but more so to say that lowering springs essentially must be used with stock-style struts, or not at all, unless you can find used struts.
Yeah, in my limited searching I haven't come across any new struts that will work with lowering springs. I also searched for "protege monotube struts" and found nothing. I was mainly doing that for fun, since I'd be tickled to just get rid of my clunks and get the car back to factory ride quality. I would have considered a <1 inch drop if I could find the right struts as I follow the "OEM+" philosophy as well.
 

katapaltes

'03 P5, '17 Miata, stock AF
:
Dallas, TX
:
2003 Protege5
I just read that any Sachs struts you purchase are likely to be made in China if your vehicle didn't come with Sachs originally, or if they weren't offered as an option on your vehicle. I also read that KYB stands for "Keep Your Bilsteins," but unfortunately those aren't available for our cars. 🙃

I'm currently looking at Monroe Quick-Struts for the rears since my bump stops are also broken.
 

katapaltes

'03 P5, '17 Miata, stock AF
:
Dallas, TX
:
2003 Protege5
I've always wondered if we could find another car's strut insert to "rebuild" protege struts. surely another compact must have similar dimensions where it'll fit.

Something like this How To's - Installing Koni Inserts
I had no idea that was a thing. I'd heard of Koni inserts, but didn't know you literally hacked them in.

@BenjiHoggi Could you could buy struts for the Mazdaspeed Protege? If the MSP (or MP3) was factory lowered, their struts should work but would be spendy. I'm sure more than a couple people have done that by now.

I'm probably just going to buy stock Protege5 struts for the rears as they aren't too much more than decent KYB/Gabriel/Sachs.
 

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
@BenjiHoggi Could you could buy struts for the Mazdaspeed Protege? If the MSP (or MP3) was factory lowered, their struts should work but would be spendy. I'm sure more than a couple people have done that by now.
I checked RockAuto briefly and for front QuickStruts and individual struts, the part numbers for all that I saw looked the same between the MSP and P5. It's hard to find a definitively separated MP3 vehicle in RockAuto but for a 2001 Sedan, it's the same too. Kind of disappointing if you have an MSP and want to refresh your suspension.

Doesn't matter anyway for me, as my ACDelco strut assemblies are already sitting at my house waiting to be installed.
 

katapaltes

'03 P5, '17 Miata, stock AF
:
Dallas, TX
:
2003 Protege5
I checked RockAuto briefly and for front QuickStruts and individual struts, the part numbers for all that I saw looked the same between the MSP and P5. It's hard to find a definitively separated MP3 vehicle in RockAuto but for a 2001 Sedan, it's the same too. Kind of disappointing if you have an MSP and want to refresh your suspension.

Doesn't matter anyway for me, as my ACDelco strut assemblies are already sitting at my house waiting to be installed.
Yeah, you'd have to hit the Mazda parts catalog to find the MPS (Mazda Performance Series) parts and do a search for them, for example:
bn7h-28-700a (right rear)
bn7h-28-900a (left rear)

You won't ever find those parts on Rock Auto. This page shows a pretty blue Tokico (OEM) strut in all its glory as a Mazda part: 2001-2003 Mazda Strut - Driver's Side (LH) BN7H-28-900A | TascaParts.com . You'll see mention of both MP3 and Mazdaspeed further down on that page. If the Tokico parts have dried up, maybe one could still get hold of the same parts but with Mazda stickers on them (for $200+ apiece!).

Fun info:
 
Noticed my car having a bit of a white puff when starting. Come to realize I didn't close the engine oil cap completely when i topped it off a few weeks ago and now most of that oil has burned off

Idiot of the week right here.
 

katapaltes

'03 P5, '17 Miata, stock AF
:
Dallas, TX
:
2003 Protege5
I replaced the driver's side LCA in 108-degree (that's 42 C for folks with more sane units of measurement). Heat index was 114 and I had limited shade. That was a huge mistake, but I took breaks and drank six bottles of water. My shirt became so heavy with sweat that it was like some kind of weighted workout jacket. Oh, and to top it off, we had a brief downpour in that 108 degrees while still in full sun. It was surreal. By the time I went back out it was a literal wet sauna. Man, everything hurts today and I had all kinds of crazy dreams waking me up last night so I didn't get a good night's sleep. Don't do this. Don't be me.

The key to successful installation *for me* was jacking up that knuckle to get the LCA completely horizontal. That allowed me to start the front bushing and the rear bracket+bolts with ease. DD, I've checked my other, new LCA and the original, removed LCA and the bolt hole on that rear bushing (or whatever it is) is boringly perpendicular to the rest of the part. So I'm not surprised that it was easy to install in my case. Now, I don't have OEM replacement parts, but some (NOS?) Beck Arnley ones, and they may be different from other brands.

My biggest problem with elevating that knuckle (which was a *requirement* for me) was that the floor jack was occupying the space where the ball joint needed to be when I'd swing the LCA up to get it horizontal. I tried turning the wheel all the way to the left or right to try and make some space, but in one of those directions, the end link contacted another piece of the suspension when I elevated the knuckle so that was a no-go. 😳 I ended up returning the steering wheel to center and went another route: Moving the knuckle fore and aft. In the end, I moved the knuckle forward a little farther than I wanted to as shown below. Hopefully I didn't hurt anything. After hours in the sun and an immobilized vehicle in my apartment parking lot, I honestly didn't care as long as I could get it moving to take it to a shop if needed. The other challenge was my not wanting to remove the cap from the ball joint boot until the very last minute. There are a lot of sharp parts down there including the knife-like disc brake shield, and I didn't want to destroy the ball joint boot.

DD, this is where I would say that removing the brake assembly, hub, and shield might help. If it allows more jacking options or keeps that ball joint boot safe it is well worth the additional minutes and bungee cord required. I will definitely do that for the other side. Also, if you're filming it like the guy in the video, it's a lot better for the viewer. :) Speaking of the video, I think the guy got the torque for the pinch bolt wrong (too high), and I can see from the service manual how he could have done that. I'll confirm that and if so, drop him a note in his Comment section.

Pics:
Found out what was making the noise after I removed my wheel 😉 (yes, it was there, but it wasn't making the noises):
View attachment 311440

Knuckle shoved to the front of the car while jacked, hopefully not too far:
View attachment 311438

Knuckle elevated with plastic ball joint cover installed till the bitter end:
View attachment 311439

Captured the order of the three different bolts for that rear bracket (actual LCA bolt would go in the empty space among them):
View attachment 311441

Today, six months after replacing the left LCA, I replaced the right one :p and it seems this has gotten rid of a lot of my remaining clunks. In fact, replacing the *right*-front one almost seems to have further quieted noises from my hitting bumps with the *left*-front wheel, which already had its LCA replaced. (?!?) Is it possible that road impact to the left-front wheel is referred to the right-front wheel via stabilizer bar or body, whereupon it (previously) made a clunk?

Surprisingly, the ball joint pictured below wasn't that bad. Yes, I could move it with my hand, but it wasn't exactly sloppy. However, based on the cracked bushings at the other two corners of the LCA (and the improvement I feel in the ride now), it was past time to replace it.

The order of installation I took this time was different: 1) front bolt 2) ball joint 3) four rear bolts. I did one thing different this time that helped: I removed the two 17mm bolts holding the knuckle to the strut, which is not normally a requirement. This made it easier to both fasten the ball joint and jack up the knuckle in order to get the LCA horizontal and install the four rear bolts (no spring resistance with the strut detached). The only caution is that while jacking up the knuckle with those two 17mm bolts undone, the strut can collide with your CV boot and the stabilizer bar can contact the LCA. I made sure that I stopped jacking up the knuckle before that happened.
 
Didn't really take many photos when I was working on my own car, of course I have quite a few for a PT Cruiser I fixed up, but I needed to show the work I did so..

Anyways just picked this up, it needed a lot more work then I thought, I needed to install a new battery and couldn't get the bar off at the time and didn't want to strip the bolts so I went at it my own way lol

Also replaced the IAC (Not shown), spark plugs, cables, both coils..

Had transmission replaced at 130km :cry: new one has 139km I think took forever to find, new power steering pump, water pump & timing belt and cover, starter, new horn, wipers front and rear, antenna, ignition switch, rad fluid and oil change. Brakes all around and at least 2 rotors I can't recall.

Still runs like crap 😭


Next up, new tires and maybe rims and re-do calipers, weather stripping and P1569 and P0300 errors 😑 Has like no rust anywhere no accidents or damage other then a some paint damage on front bumper and curbing on rims so trying hard to save it!

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Yeah, that can't be good...
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My 2002 MP5 AT
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katapaltes

'03 P5, '17 Miata, stock AF
:
Dallas, TX
:
2003 Protege5
Yeah, that can't be good...
View attachment 315275
Funny that you posted this just now. After my P5's passing inspections easily for 20 years, it failed twice last week with both CAT and EVAP monitors showing Not Ready. I didn't know these monitors even existed. I had only ever dealt with actual trouble codes like your P0300 one. I had recently disconnected the battery, but after a week or two of driving, testing the battery, and swapping out the ECU with a spare, I just couldn't reset those two monitors. I then finally followed Mazda's prescribed drive cycle steps to reset the CAT readiness monitor (Google for that) and it totally worked. That left only the one bad EVAP monitor which was enough for me to pass inspection. I imagine the EVAP monitor will reset on its own over the course of the year, but if not I may follow the prescribed drive cycle steps for its monitor as well.

The guys at the inspection/oil change place didn't know about readiness monitors either, and that was a surprise. One of them even told me that I'd certainly fail a third time since I hadn't taken the car to a mechanic. :D Then again, they are all pretty young and don't have a lot of experience. I have to do some of my own inspection testing when I go there because none of them can drive a manual.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
Funny that you posted this just now. After my P5's passing inspections easily for 20 years, it failed twice last week with both CAT and EVAP monitors showing Not Ready.


Don't forget your monitoring conditions.
Your fuel level needs to be between 35%-85% for the system to be monitored.

Screenshot_20230118-172615_Acrobat for Samsung.jpg
 

katapaltes

'03 P5, '17 Miata, stock AF
:
Dallas, TX
:
2003 Protege5
Don't forget your monitoring conditions.
Your fuel level needs to be between 35%-85% for the system to be monitored.
...and of course I had just filled up the tank. I had read fuel level needs to be "25%-75%," but since fuel level hadn't quite dropped to 75% when the CAT monitor did reset, I think your 85% figure is more accurate. :) For a moment, I thought my using 93 octane may be the problem (my JDM engine and MP3 ECU want premium gas).

Side note: I've heard that some folks fill up with premium to pass their inspections and that that actually works for them. I've also read that using premium gas in a car that doesn't need it can cause unburnt fuel to exit your tailpipe, harming your results (and the environment). Texas inspections just rely on the ECU and don't do an actual sniffer test at the exhaust, so it actually didn't make a difference in my case.
 
:
03 p5, 92 miata
I posted my last little p5 bits for sale today, finally. Nothing big and I am not looking to get much for any of it!

 

CTt3P5

TAD
Contributor
:
2016 GT ST 47A
I posted my last little p5 bits for sale today, finally. Nothing big and I am not looking to get much for any of it!

You finally broke down and sent her off to pasture..... :( The ol' girl certainly didn't owe you anything.

On our way to Mark's house for a Fall Clean Meet back in 2011! :D

NEPOC Fall Clean Meet Oct 29th 2011 (1).JPG
 

CTt3P5

TAD
Contributor
:
2016 GT ST 47A
Mine is still hangin in there.....there being the garage on battery tender mostly, lol.
Gotta get it out and stretch those legs! There are still times where I wish I still had mine.

Our son has an 08 3 hatch which is almost the same. Wish I could have found him a nice P5 when we were shopping.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
Speaking of putting a car out to pasture,..

My car is looking for a good home for retirement.

IMG_20220912_155427.jpg


I quit driving on June 3rd and my car has been sitting in the driveway ever since.
I want it gone.

I am willing to give the car away for free to someone that will promise to take good care of it and post pictures of what you have done with it.

My car is a rusty turd on the outside, but My Engine Does Not Burn Oil !!!

It in fact,.. Pollutes Less Than A New Car !!!

I don't have an engine hoist to pull the engine to sell it, so you would have to come and get it from south western Ontario.

It can be easily towed with a car dolly and doesn't need a flatbed.
My ownership will be included and signed off as a gift.

My wiring harness was compromised and my car no longer starts, but I have a replacement harness from my parts car.

I will include an extremely rare Wagner Exhaust, and West Wings spoiler that are not available anywhere anymore.

IMG_20220912_155624.jpg




After giving up driving, I have converted to electric bicycles.

20221204_152450.jpg


I've had this ugly piece of crap for almost 10 years now.
I put new tires and tubes on it when it became my only means of transportation.

Then I bought this to explore my environment a few months ago,..

20221110_124942.jpg



And now I have decided to pimp my ride and I'm doing a complete heart, lung, and brain transplant,..
I hope I get it back together and running?

20230121_222504.jpg



I have a new interest now and just don't want to bother with my car anymore.
 
:
03 p5, 92 miata
After giving up driving, I have converted to electric bicycles.
E-bikes have definitely intrigued me for some time now, but instead my wife and I have been on a wait list for Honda Ruckus scooters for a few months now. Those should end up being more fun than the bikes in our opinions. We plan to do some long rides on them.
 
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