___ 323F ___
Got the new oem window regulator and added my original oem motor to it. Ready to go back in the door but 115 in the garage has lowered the priority of reinstalling it at the moment.
did you really wire that up with that rats nest of wires? I hope you have wrapped them all up in loom, otherwise you have a fire waiting to happen
did you really wire that up with that rats nest of wires? I hope you have wrapped them all up in loom, otherwise you have a fire waiting to happen.
Finally got some time to do a bunch of maintenance. Just finished pulling the transmission today to replace the clutch and flywheel.
Good eyeDude, your tie rod end boot looks like it's shot.
If the boot is shot, it's likely that your tie rod end is too.
You should think about replacing both ends while your at it.
Haha yes, one step ahead of you there, already planning to get that done. I'm replacing LCAs, swaybar bushings, tie rod ends, and I was going to replace end links but I think they are still okay. So I will definitely be getting an alignment.You will likely need an alignment after
,.. All jokes aside, you seem to have a good eye for that. Also the harbor freight advertising...I'm too cheap.
*sigh*Is it possible to install a nut on the end of that bolt (or a slightly longer bolt), instead of what you have planned?
It might be easier, cheaper, and maybe more reliable ?
Yes I thought about doing that, but I'm pretty much committed at this point. I think the perfectionist in my wanted to do it "properly" with the helicoil/insert. But the cheap part of me wanted to do nut. We'll see how it holds up.
Might take you up on that idea, despite the fact that it has already cost me a painful amount of time and money. I just finished putting the insert in and it seems pretty sturdy, but I like your logic.Just do both then to make sure. It's both cheap and proper.
Personally, I'd trust a nut over a helicoil.
Yes, this ended up being true, unfortunately. I bought a (expensive!) longer bolt and nut to try it and it did not fit on. Tried a nut without the flange bit and same thing. So I just left the new bolt on and didn't torque the heck out of it.There may not be enough space for a nut or room to get in there with a wrench.
That may be why the hole is threaded.
I remember reading how one of the bolts is hard to reach, and you have to do it blind.
I've thought about doing that actually. I took the 11" sub that came with the car out after having it for a year and while I don't miss the weight and loss of space, I definitely miss the lows. Having something more compact is appealing.That setup actually sounds half decent after I got the eq set and flattened the response of the cheaper front speakers.