What have you done to your P5 today?

i12drivemyMP5

___ 323F ___
Contributor
Got the new oem window regulator and added my original oem motor to it. Ready to go back in the door but 115 in the garage has lowered the priority of reinstalling it at the moment.
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BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
Finally got some time to do a bunch of maintenance. Just finished pulling the transmission today to replace the clutch and flywheel. By far the most work I've done on a vehicle. Not going to get into fine details of the process but so far it has been a lot of removing parts to get to things, and the only real hard part was getting the actual transmission out. Kind of shocked it went so smoothly. Oh...except for the starter bolt that came out completely destroyed. Gonna have to figure that one out.

The parts list is long and exciting. I've been collecting things for a while. I will list everything when it is actually done.

And just a few quick questions in case anybody knows off the top of their heads...
1. Is there a special type of grease for the bearings/shift fork stuff in the transmission?
2. Does the oil need to be drained to do the rear main seal?

I searched a bit and couldn't find much, but I'll keep looking as well.

Stopped right after getting the trans off...very interested to see what the clutch and (horribly warped) flywheel look like tomorrow.
 

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BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
Oh also went to the junkyard today and snagged some extremely rare roof rack delete caps (YAYYYYYY) that weren't totally destroyed. The two front ones came right off but one in the rear snapped in half and the other was gone. Nonetheless, I will glue the broken one back together and swap it for my terrible condition current ones. Still hoping to 3D model and print some prototypes at some point.
Also got a parking brake cable to fix my seized one and an HVAC fan switch to play with. Because it turns out I didn't really fix my AC after all 😑
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
,.. and an HVAC fan switch to play with. Because it turns out I didn't really fix my AC after all 😑

You could install 4 relays and hook them up to your fan switch.
That's what I did and haven't had a problem for almost 10 years now.

Screenshot_20220712-090828_DuckDuckGo.jpg
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
I found this diagram I made showing how to wire up the relays.

Screenshot_20220712-115520_DuckDuckGo.jpg
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I used really thick wire soldered directly to the terminals of the relays to help keep the resistance down and not upset the sense circuit.

You can also buy relays with the connector to make things a bit easier to fabricate, but I wanted to keep my resistance as low as possible.

I used heavy duty 30 amp relays.

IMG_20220712_120123.jpg



I remember splicing into a pink wire to feed +12V to the relays.

Screenshot_20220712-114940_DuckDuckGo.jpg
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
did you really wire that up with that rats nest of wires? I hope you have wrapped them all up in loom, otherwise you have a fire waiting to happen.

Yeah, I did just stuff that whole rats nest in there. Lol
(I did wrap the relays with electrical tape though.)

It's not too dangerous because if any wires short to ground the fan just starts blowing with the fan switch turned off.
It's not a dead short.

If a fan speed wire shorts to another fan speed wire, then you don't get all four fan speeds.
The pink B+ wire powering the relays is fused in case that wire shorts to ground.

So if my fan ever starts blowing with the switch turned off, then I know that I have to look into it.

It's been fine for almost 10 years.


Screenshot_20220713-092725_Acrobat for Samsung.jpg
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The fat black wire on the fan switch connector is ground.

B+ comes from the battery, through the heater fuse, then the blower relay, then the blower motor, then the resistor pack, then to the fan switch where it waits to get grounded to the black wire.
 
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BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
Does anyone know how to get these darn axle seals out?? Mine are torn and I need to replace them.

Edit: haha and just as I post this it comes out. And it looks like I do have the right seal!!
 

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pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
Finally got some time to do a bunch of maintenance. Just finished pulling the transmission today to replace the clutch and flywheel.

Screenshot_20220713-185023_DuckDuckGo.jpg
Screenshot_20220712-082929_DuckDuckGo.jpg


Dude, your tie rod end boot looks like it's shot.

If the boot is shot, it's likely that your tie rod end is too.

You should think about replacing both ends while your at it.

You will likely need an alignment after or you could do your alignment yourself.
(Or at least get it close enough to drive it to the shop for an alignment.)
 

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
Dude, your tie rod end boot looks like it's shot.

If the boot is shot, it's likely that your tie rod end is too.

You should think about replacing both ends while your at it.
Good eye 😂
Bet you can't guess what's in a box in the back of the car...couldn't possibly be some new tie rod ends. Not at all.

You will likely need an alignment after
Haha yes, one step ahead of you there, already planning to get that done. I'm replacing LCAs, swaybar bushings, tie rod ends, and I was going to replace end links but I think they are still okay. So I will definitely be getting an alignment.

All jokes aside, you seem to have a good eye for that. I was wondering how much butchery people would notice in my pics. Also the harbor freight advertising...I'm too cheap.

At the moment my primary struggle is getting a new rear main seal locally (I forgot to order one) and trying to fix the mess with the stripped bolt in my starter. About to install an insert with the kit I just bought. Expensive but better than the cost of the new starter.

PXL_20220712_152248003.jpg
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The car is in so many pieces right now. Hopefully will start putting things back together tonight so I can drive her again.

PXL_20220712_145229539.jpg


I discovered yesterday that the clutch had been replaced and it had loads of life left, but the flywheel was OEM and original (thus explains the warping). The throwout bearing and thrust bearing (I think it's called?) are also shot and very gritty sounding. The old clutch is labeled DK and looks very different than the Exedy clutch I am putting in along with a new flywheel.

Side by side comparison:
PXL_20220712_151559292.jpg
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
,.. All jokes aside, you seem to have a good eye for that. Also the harbor freight advertising...I'm too cheap.

Up here in Canada 🇨🇦, we've got Princes Auto and Canadian Tire,..

You don't need expensive quality tools if you don't use them all day long, every day.

I only use hand tools.
It takes longer, but it's way cheaper.
And they work better.

I get way more torque from my 3 foot breaker bar than from any powered tools I've tried.
 

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
Is it possible to install a nut on the end of that bolt (or a slightly longer bolt), instead of what you have planned?

It might be easier, cheaper, and maybe more reliable ?
*sigh*

Yes I thought about doing that, but I'm pretty much committed at this point. I think the perfectionist in my wanted to do it "properly" with the helicoil/insert. But the cheap part of me wanted to do nut. We'll see how it holds up.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
*sigh*

Yes I thought about doing that, but I'm pretty much committed at this point. I think the perfectionist in my wanted to do it "properly" with the helicoil/insert. But the cheap part of me wanted to do nut. We'll see how it holds up.

Just do both then to make sure. It's both cheap and proper.

Personally, I'd trust a nut over a helicoil.
 

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
Just do both then to make sure. It's both cheap and proper.

Personally, I'd trust a nut over a helicoil.
Might take you up on that idea, despite the fact that it has already cost me a painful amount of time and money. I just finished putting the insert in and it seems pretty sturdy, but I like your logic.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
There may not be enough space for a nut or room to get in there with a wrench.
That may be why the hole is threaded.
I remember reading how one of the bolts is hard to reach, and you have to do it blind.
 
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With money being on the tighter end, there's not a lot I can really do. but, over the weekend and today I tackled a few small things I've been waiting to work on. I ordered some front door speakers about six months ago but had a water intrusion problem in the door so I put that off. I decided to get some boom matsabout a week ago to cover em up to fix that and to my surprise the left door still had its stock speaker in and when removed it had a factory water shield on it. I pried that off to test fit with the new one and it did fit fine. Seeing as I only had the one, I just used what I had bought. Cut a hole on the bottom half for bass response and all was well there.
while I was there I got a couple of other things done. The left door handle was missing the plastic that the screw went into so I modified a tag anchor to fit and found a bolt for that. that's fixed now. also added some two sided tape to stop a bracket from rattling around. Picked up the left over bits from the failed regulator that the PO must have replaced. On the right door I noticed something floating near the door handle, found out that it was the lock switch for the key to operate all the locks from the passenger key, so that's a bonus. a good interior detail today led somehow to me installing a thrift store subwoofer that is supposed to be for a home system. Think I paid 3.99 for it 😁 I had the amp from a previous install, wire, fuse for the battery side of the hot and the rca wires. so I just threw it all in. and cleaned the interior panels when I had them all out. All that and a good wash and we're ready to roll. That setup actually sounds half decent after I got the eq set and flattened the response of the cheaper front speakers.

off topic some, but ALDOT is repairing some railroad tracks omw to work so I may be able to order and install some worn suspension parts instead of waiting on those tracks to beat them down the rest of the way. 😂
 

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
There may not be enough space for a nut or room to get in there with a wrench.
That may be why the hole is threaded.
I remember reading how one of the bolts is hard to reach, and you have to do it blind.
Yes, this ended up being true, unfortunately. I bought a (expensive!) longer bolt and nut to try it and it did not fit on. Tried a nut without the flange bit and same thing. So I just left the new bolt on and didn't torque the heck out of it.

That setup actually sounds half decent after I got the eq set and flattened the response of the cheaper front speakers.
I've thought about doing that actually. I took the 11" sub that came with the car out after having it for a year and while I don't miss the weight and loss of space, I definitely miss the lows. Having something more compact is appealing.

I wanted to try to find one of those OEM subwoofer units that fit into the spare tire, but It looks like the spare is mounted differently in order to fit into the tire, because there wouldn't be room for it on my car.

But relating to that, I was at the junkyard the other day and found this in the back of a P5, it's a two part tray that sits on top of the spare and your cargo mat thing goes over top. I don't have it in my car and I've never seen it in the back of a P5 in person, but have in photos. Does anyone on here have one and is it useful or rare? Thinking I might go back and grab it because it's kinda cool.

PXL_20220711_232441931.jpg


My car is finally back together after all the new parts. The new clutch works great and no more creaking and squeaking from the suspension. I replaced the front swaybar bushings with PU ones, which was spectacularly fun. If you know, you know.