What have you done to your P5 today?

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
also, 60k miles on the timing belt? IIRC these engines are NON interference.

You have a 95% chance that your engine is a non-interference engine.

If you or the previous owners drove the living snot out of your car, including hard down shifting and engine braking, then your engine may have evolved into an interference engine.


There has only been a couple of guys that have bent a valve after snapping a T-belt 😳.

Most people simply just snap their belt and replace the belt.

One guy replaced his belt when he bought his car then snapped it twice more and simply replaced it,.. no engine damage.

I replaced mine because I thought that I had an interference engine, but I won't replace it again until it breaks.

I cut my T-belt on my parts car and put a drill on the Crankshaft...


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I locked the throttle on my drill and slowly rotated both camshafts around 360°...

No contact...


I haven't even inspected this one yet. just got done doing two of those on a camry and spectra. not looking forward to a third :ROFLMAO:


If you do it, or wait for it to snap, get the complete kit and do it right.
T-belt, water pump, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, and the all too important tensioner pulley spring..

Get the complete kit...

My old pulleys were as wobbly AF and needed to be replaced.


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BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
Changed oil and rotated tires.

It was a convenient time to do the oil, but it was also very black at only 2859 miles. Not sure what to make of that, but an oil change is cheap so whatever.

I drive my car pretty hard, but most of my driving is highway miles. I'm a little perturbed to see that my tires are wearing quickly, with only 11k miles on them. Wear pattern is even at least. More chances to try new tires! Might consider switching to a dedicated summer/winter tire when these wear out because I am spending more time at higher/colder altitudes these days.

Wish I had more time and money to take care of this car, but alas it is seeing the life of a daily driver.

Did order some Redline MT-90 GL-4 transmission fluid to try out. Gearbox is starting to feel a bit clunky and notchy with the colder temps, and it's been 25k on the current oil. We'll see how the new fluid improves things (hopefully).

Couple of photos because I was feeling creative. I love this silly thing, quirks and all.
 

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Did order some Redline MT-90 GL-4 transmission fluid to try out. Gearbox is starting to feel a bit clunky and notchy with the colder temps, and it's been 25k on the current oil. We'll see how the new fluid improves things (hopefully).

Couple of photos because I was feeling creative. I love this silly thing, quirks and all.

I thought I recognized that sky color. Where in Oregon?

Definitely try expensive transaxle oil before getting too concerned about the trans. There aren't any specific quirks aside from age and poor 1-2 shifting habits. You should absolutely keep an eye out for an MSP trans with the LSD. I thought my P5 was fun to drive, but the LSD in my MSP is noticeably more awesome (well, the extra 45HP doesn't hurt either).
 

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
I thought I recognized that sky color. Where in Oregon?

Definitely try expensive transaxle oil before getting too concerned about the trans. There aren't any specific quirks aside from age and poor 1-2 shifting habits. You should absolutely keep an eye out for an MSP trans with the LSD. I thought my P5 was fun to drive, but the LSD in my MSP is noticeably more awesome (well, the extra 45HP doesn't hurt either).
The first photo is along the drive up to Crater lake and the second two are off highways 97 and 58 respectively.

I bought a gallon of Redline MT-90 GL4 75W-90 and I'm going to try it out at some point soon. The shift into 3rd is a little stiff sometimes (my mechanic noted it during a PPI and said it was not uncommon), and the 1-2 shift can also clunk pretty badly if I try to shift quickly. I'm starting to get into the habit of shifting more slowly and smoothly though, as I want to preserve my gearbox. My only other real concern is an occasional whine in the lower gears (1-3 if I recall).
 
Looks like it’s oil change time for my P5 and MSP. What oil filters are we liking lately?

I think this engine uses the same filter as my SR20 powered Miata.
 
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pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
There are filters from the 929 and 626 of different years that fit our car.

They are longer and/or wider with more filter media.

They fit fine.
I use the Fram filter for the 626.


Post in thread 'Boring Daily Build' Boring Daily Build

 
took a crack at fixing the leaking thermostat outlet. The housing and outlet are pitted from a previous leak and the seal doesn't work, dripping coolant from below. I bought a sheet of gasket material and cut it to fit and installed it. there is now a slower leak from the top bolt but it holds pressure now. Likely that I will limp it along and finally order the housing and neck if I can find them both.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
took a crack at fixing the leaking thermostat outlet. The housing and outlet are pitted from a previous leak and the seal doesn't work, dripping coolant from below. I bought a sheet of gasket material and cut it to fit and installed it. there is now a slower leak from the top bolt but it holds pressure now.

I've got a roll of gasket material too.

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I forget what I used it on.
I think it was my exhaust, along with a tube of high heat copper RTV silicone. Lol

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I do not envy y'all living in the rust belt. This is the first time I got the material. the last time I had to make a gasket for the same thing, I used cardboard paper and a very light coat of sealant (think it was gray in color from permatex) that one held until I sold the car. this one has the slightest seep from the top bolt now but it is slow enough that there is still full pressure after an hour drive and I don't see a daily coolant loss.
 
the first coil pack failed this morning as I left the driveway to head to work. dead on cyl 2. In the diag for that I found a lean code and stumbled across the leak at the same time. the no. 3 injector is leaking vacuum where it goes into the port. got the pack out and noticed some oil on the ceramic of the spark plug so there are a few things added to the to-do list. Merry Christmas y'all!
 
:
Dallas, TX
:
2003 Protege5
the first coil pack failed this morning as I left the driveway to head to work. dead on cyl 2. In the diag for that I found a lean code and stumbled across the leak at the same time. the no. 3 injector is leaking vacuum where it goes into the port. got the pack out and noticed some oil on the ceramic of the spark plug so there are a few things added to the to-do list. Merry Christmas y'all!
If that coil pack is dead and you like your car, consider buying Hitachi. Rock Auto has them for $45 and they last a long time. Years ago, I got a coil pack with a lifetime warranty from Autozone. They certainly honored the warranty, but that coil pack left me stuck in an REI parking lot with a flashing CEL and at risk of dumping unspent fuel into my cat. No such problems with the other coil pack, a Hitachi. Mazda uses Hitachi as their OEM coil packs.
 
If that coil pack is dead and you like your car, consider buying Hitachi. Rock Auto has them for $45 and they last a long time. Years ago, I got a coil pack with a lifetime warranty from Autozone. They certainly honored the warranty, but that coil pack left me stuck in an REI parking lot with a flashing CEL and at risk of dumping unspent fuel into my cat. No such problems with the other coil pack, a Hitachi. Mazda uses Hitachi as their OEM coil packs.
good to know, I don't like getting aftermarket but in this case two 10s and they carry the part locally, I will order that one to replace the other one before it fails. how long did the replacement last 😂. these look oem with 228k on em.
 
:
Dallas, TX
:
2003 Protege5
good to know, I don't like getting aftermarket but in this case two 10s and they carry the part locally, I will order that one to replace the other one before it fails. how long did the replacement last 😂. these look oem with 228k on em.
I don't know how long the OEMs should last, but I think you'll find on this forum that they usually fail before 228k miles (or kms). Since you mentioned how your parts look... After I replaced my original coils (with one Hitachi part and one Autozone generic part, as the two parts stores in my neighborhood only had one unit in stock apiece), the new coils worked great. After 30k miles or so, the Autozone looked rough in terms of paint coming off, etc. The Hitachi looked new after being wiped down. I later replaced both with Hitachi, tossed the Autozone part in the trash and kept the used Hitachi part as a spare. My JDM replacement engine came with one generic coil in it, so I yanked that and put my used Hitachi part in there.
 

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
Got in my car this afternoon and turned the key to start it. The moment I bumped the starter, the entire car lost all power. Absolutely nothing, no accessories, no lights. As if I tripped some sort of breaker or momentary fuse. Did not see or smell any signs of wiring issues. Disconnected/reconnected the battery and all was fine again. Definitely going to be keeping the tool set in the car from now on. Anyone have any clue why this would happen?
 
Got in my car this afternoon and turned the key to start it. The moment I bumped the starter, the entire car lost all power. Absolutely nothing, no accessories, no lights. As if I tripped some sort of breaker or momentary fuse. Did not see or smell any signs of wiring issues. Disconnected/reconnected the battery and all was fine again. Definitely going to be keeping the tool set in the car from now on. Anyone have any clue why this would happen?
bad connection at the battery most likely. Voltage drop test the power wires if the connections are clean.
 

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
bad connection at the battery most likely. Voltage drop test the power wires if the connections are clean.
Thanks for the suggestion, I appreciate it. I don't want to rule that out, but my battery terminals are brand new and don't have a spec of corrosion on them. Everything was stone dead until I disconnected the negative terminal and put it right back on. It was tight when I took it off, same with the positive. I didn't have a volt meter on hand but if it happens again, I will probe around and see where the problem is.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
Got in my car this afternoon and turned the key to start it. The moment I bumped the starter, the entire car lost all power.

I think you've got a worn out ignition switch.
When they fail your car can die.
Sometimes the car will die when it's running and you wiggle your key around.

There's a whole bunch of little switches inside the switch and they wear out and fail.
It's a safety issue too.
They're not much money and it might be prudent to just replace it regardless.

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pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
It's pretty simple to replace.

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Testing the switch can be misleading because the switches tend to have intermittent issues.